Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
My rear railings are fine but the tee fasteners were not so i ordered new ones. Now the problem is i cant slide them around the bend to reinstall them. Any ideas on this?
Do not use the two piece T-fittings. Just cut and splice with 4 inch long "hot dogs" (length of 3/4" stainless steel tubing). There will not be any loss of strength using the splined joints and it costs less too. CMI Marine sells the stainless tubing.
I agree with the "cut and sleeve" recommendation. I have replaced many of these Whaler tees, which on the earlier boats were chromed Zamac (zinc alloy) which held up poorly in salt water. They were installed with screws drilled into the SS tubing, and these are no longer available. So you will using the SS tees with set screws. I have had good luck with the SeaDog brand, or Whitecap brand.
I have found that heavier wall 3/4" aluminum tubing from a hardware store works well, and is easy to source. I cut 8" lengths, and using Gorilla glue, glue the "hot dog" 4" into only one side. I keep the other side unglued, so the rail can be taken apart in the future if needed. If you glue both sides, forget separating it sometime in the future. Once installed, these sleeves make the rail rock solid, with no flexing.
As for cutting both the rail itself, and the sleeves, you should DEFINITELY BUY a "RIDGID model 35S" stainless steel tube cutter. This goes through a stainless rail like butter, with perfectly square and true cuts. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. Cut the rail at exactly the center of the original tee location.
