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main breaker switch
sherry
#1 Print Post
Posted on 09/01/07 - 1:11 PM
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Joined: 08/18/07

Hi everyone! new member of whaler central. I hope there someone here that can help me.what main circuit switch amp should I be using? 30amp breaker on whaler now.accessory vhf radio- bilge pump-depth sounder-nav lights front and back.gps fishfinder. when I activate the assy switch and then shut it off ,it trips the main breaker,. don't the breaker switch in the panel should trip first? if there is a bad or loose wire or has the main breaker switch gone bad. I'm in the dark about this one.91whaler 16SL 91-90hp yamaha

 
gleong
#2 Print Post
Posted on 08/26/08 - 7:00 PM
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I just bought a 2001 16' Dauntless and having the same problem. Did you find out how to solve it?

 
gleong
#3 Print Post
Posted on 08/29/08 - 7:07 PM
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SmileHi Bob, thanks for your offer of help. The boat is a 2001 16' Dauntless with fishing package (trolling panel and 2 batteries) powered by 2001 Merc 90 hp 4 stroke.
Here's the situation - the gas gauge, nav lights, accessories (depth finder) do not work. There are 3 rocker style switches with red indicators for nav, bilge & accessories. The red indicators do not light up.
I found the main DC breaker was tripped and was unable to reset it when it was in the housing. After pulling it out of the housing and removing the rubber cap I was able to reset the breaker. The Whaler electrical schematic indicates it is a 30a breaker for the 12 volt main. Pulled the breaker out of the housing and found the following markings – E T A, 250Va, 28Vdc.
Is it common for breakers to go bad or is something causing it to trip? Is the documentation correct about a 30a breaker?

I have another question about the battery setup. It not a problem but not sure about this type of connection. The 2 batteries have positive leads connecting to another small plastic rectangular panel. The panel has a red button sticking out from the top and when you push on it a smaller piece of plastic (like a lever) pop out of the side of the panel. I can push it back in and snaps back in place. I couldn’t find this in the schematic. Any idea of the purpose of this panel?

Any help in this would be greatly appreciated!!!

 
gleong
#4 Print Post
Posted on 08/30/08 - 9:51 PM
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Bob, thanks for the info. You were right on with the Bussman breaker. I mistook the other red wire from the crank battery. I do have a question about the battery connections and a problem with nav lights.
Battery connections - the deep cycle has an extra pair of red\black wires. I could not tell exactly were they are connected and assume it is to the cranking battery. If they are connected together will they both be charged from the outboard, is it possible the cranking battery could be drained by the trolling motor? I was planning to install and onboard Guest 2 bank charger, do I only need to get a one bank charger and it will charge both?
So far the 30a breaker has not tripped but the nav lights do not work. The rocker switch indicator (rectangle light) does not light up. I was checking the connections to the five amp breaker and notice that if I wiggle one of the leads another indicator light (like a short dash below the rectangle light) lights up momentarily. Could the problem be a bad breaker or do something else? Should the dash indicator light be on all the time?

Again thank you for your help.

Gary L

 
gleong
#5 Print Post
Posted on 09/02/08 - 4:30 PM
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Joined: 08/19/08

Bob, thanks for the troubleshooting guide. It was the 5a breaker. I have one on order and it sb here by Thur. I have not purchase the Guest charge and would consider going with your recommendation of the ProMariner charger. Send me the price info on both the 12a and 20a with shipping to Sacramento, ca. I may consider the 12a because of size.
I suspect the batteries are connected in parallel. There are 2 red from the pos and 2 black from the neg posts also the Minn Kota 50pd is a 12 volt model. Should I be concerned about the possibility of cranking battery being drained from the trolling motor, is this a normal setup for a Whaler with a trolling panel option and would I have change the connections for the Promariner charger or install a battery switch?

FYI – (reason for slow response) - I’ve been out for a couple days and unable to work it till this afternoon.

I have another question but it’s not related to electrical. I’ve been researching fins and hoping to get an opinion of which one – Doel-fin, SE 300 or Turbo-lift? The Dauntless is slow to get on plane and very sensitive to too much trim which then causes porpoising. I seen the posts on the stern heavy Dauntless and it seems that a fin would help.

Again thank you and looking forwarding to getting the ProMariner.


Gary

 
gleong
#6 Print Post
Posted on 09/07/08 - 2:50 PM
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Bob, I'll measure the area and let you know. Thanks.

 
gleong
#7 Print Post
Posted on 09/21/08 - 11:49 PM
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Joined: 08/19/08

Bob, sent a message via your pm regarding the charger.

 
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