MSBrown253 wrote:
This guy sells kits on Ebay and Craigslist. I was able to pick up in person in CT, but he will ship. I'l le installing mine in the next couple days.

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/boa/5722155094.html

MSBrown253 wrote:
I started the install of my rubrail last night. If possible, do it in a sound proof, enclosed area, and make sure no small children are present! Foul language will ensue. Getting the very stiff PVC base unrolled and secured is not a task to be taken lightly. I finally got it done, but it was a way bigger PIA than I ever would have imagined.

chawk25 wrote:


I think once I'll get it, I'll unroll it and leave it for couple of days to straighten out. Also it has been very warm - hot here in NC - that will help.
Did you rivet or screw yours? Did the holes in rub rail and hull align?

jgortva wrote:
chawk25,
Don't mean to jump in here, but I have done a couple of these kits for different size Whalers all off of Ebay. Incredibly stiff is a perfect description for the base of the rub rail. No amount of sitting in the sun straightened it out for me. I used a heat gun purchased at Harbor Freight Tools along with 3-4 c clamps and had to really heat the rub rail and clamp it to the gunnel of the boat every 6 inches or so using scraps of wood to prevent any damage to the gel coat. Make sure to work ahead and heat, straighten and clamp a couple of feet at a time. Then go back and drill and rivet the rub rail into place heating it again if necessary to get it tight to the contour of the hull starting at one end. As for not hitting the previous holes, I always patch the old holes flush with marine tex and let dry before starting the installation to assure not to hit any old holes. I find rivets work far better than screws but make sure to not remove any clamps until you have at least 2 rivets ahead of the clamp you are releasing to insure no "tear out".

Good Luck
Jim G.

gchuba wrote:
Jim offered excellent advice. When I did mine a member posted ".....like working with coiled concrete.....". I agree. I did all what Jim did but preferred using the stainless screws gently with an impact screw gun. Barbour Plastics is the manufacturer and you may want to look them up. The Whaler track and rubber bumper where also used on other manufactured hulls. Do your stern miter cuts first (save the old as templates) and work from the stern towards the bow. I left my track a little long and cut/mitered in place under my pulpit. Mine was pre drilled and would advice it to keep crap from getting behind it when installing. I had one little bump/wave in a spot but left it clamped uninstalled for a few days for the sun to do its job. Even then a little wave is still there. I had a continuous coil and was not going to leave a seem at the bow but was advised not to by Tom Clark. I followed the advice. Even measuring and cutting the coil on ground was difficult.

Spectrum has the gel coat for your hull. Their so called "white" for the Outrage hull was no match whatsoever. I will look up my mixture formula. I blended it with "Desert Tan" and got very very close. More than acceptable to my eye.
Garris
Let me see if I understand correctly? You started at the stern and cut corners 45 degree with miter saw? Were was your connecting joint?
When removing my rub rail it appeared that the factory started at the bow and the connection between the 2 pieces was hidden under the funky center bow cleat. As far as the corners they were notched (only on top) and bent to 45 degree. I will attempt to do it the same way. BTW I have 18 Outrage. On the 22' boat the rub rail is probably much heavier / thicker and might not bend and has to be cut with miter saw.


EDIT: I checked my formula. I have a 1979 22' Revenge. The colors I used came from Spectrum. 5 parts "Outrage Grey" (sure does look very white out of the can) to 2 parts "Desert Tan". I did add a little more of the Desert Tan but only by drops. Do call Spectrum and give them your boats specs. I do not know if your hull has the same color scheme as mine.

NCWhaler wrote:
As I mentioned before, the premixed gelcoat will not match. Period. Including from Spectrum, you can do a much better job for less money and be able to make your own gel in the future by mixing your own as I described. Years ago I bought a quart from Spectrum, I still have it as a reminder of what not to do- it makes a great $45 paperweight.