Sea Star Hydraulic steering
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DaveL |
Posted on 08/13/16 - 8:23 AM
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Happy boating season to everyone
I have a 17 Montauk (1978) on which I installed hydraulic steering several years ago. With the motor all the way down, turning the steering wheel is very difficult. If I trim the motor up a few degrees the steering is much easier to operate. There are no kinked lines. Any ideas? Thanks.
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whalerman |
Posted on 08/13/16 - 8:32 AM
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Hi, which engine is installed and is the steering Bay-star or Sea-star, pics of the installation would be of benefit. When was the last time the steering cylinder removed for maintenance? Another thing to look at is the tilt tube bushings, worn out, no grease? Is the pivot shaft bushings worn out, no grease?
Edited by whalerman on 08/13/16 - 8:35 AM
THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer |
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fitz73222 |
Posted on 08/14/16 - 3:59 AM
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DaveL wrote:
Happy boating season to everyone
I have a 17 Montauk (1978) on which I installed hydraulic steering several years ago. With the motor all the way down, turning the steering wheel is very difficult. If I trim the motor up a few degrees the steering is much easier to operate. There are no kinked lines. Any ideas? Thanks.
Hi DaveL,
Which steering cylinder are you using and what year and make is your engine? Some Seastar cylinders are engine specific. Binding in any trim angle is not a good thing.
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Acseatsri |
Posted on 08/14/16 - 6:11 AM
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To better understand your problem, was it hard to steer when the hydraulic steering was originally installed, or did it just get progressively worse over time?
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DaveL |
Posted on 09/05/16 - 8:07 PM
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Hi guys. Thanks for the replies.
The motor is a model year 2000 Evinrude (Suzuki) 4 stroke.
The steering system is a Bay Star.
There were no issues before I installed the hydraulic steering. I installed the hydrauylic several years ago and had no problems until last year.
I grease every grease fitting every spring prior to launch.
I have added small amounts of fluid to the system once or twice, and I did notice fine metal in the fluid in the system (silvery color).
Teleflex customer service advised me to remove the hyd. cylinder from the motor and see if the motor turns freely, but I haven't done that yet. Will probably wait until I haul out in about one month.
Thanks again to all who replied.
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tedious |
Posted on 09/06/16 - 6:05 AM
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Yes, the best first step is to disconnect the steering arm from the motor (one bolt) and check the steering and motor turning independently. It's not really "disconnecting the hydraulic cylinder" as that's a whole different story and a lot more work.
However, metal in the fluid is not good, nor is needing to add fluid. You may also want to flush out the fluid and refill with new.
Tim
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gchuba |
Posted on 09/06/16 - 6:31 AM
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An old hydraulic expert told me once the three rules of hydraulics. Keep it clean, keep it clean, keep it clean. The metal filings will eventually ruin the gaskets/seals. They would come from metal on metal. Without seeing my guess would be the rear hydraulic cylinder and one of the seals/O-rings giving up inside. Rubbing on the interior of the cylinder wall. All the way down leaves just enough tweek in the linkage for rubbing. Get the oil changed quick. The steering assembly doubles as the pump. A lot of rubber/springs/etc... in there that are touchy.
Garris
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butchdavis |
Posted on 09/06/16 - 9:16 AM
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Finding metal bits in the fluid indicates a serious problem. The cylinder is a very simple device with virtually no metal to metal contact. This would make me suspect the helm pump may be in need of attention, possibly an overhaul. I believe Teleflex has parts available should you need them.
I would not use the boat until the problem is solved. Once the problem has been solved be sure to give the entire hydraulic system a complete flush and refill. The metal in the fluid will quickly ruin the seals in the cylinder and cause unnecessary further damage to the helm unit.
Butch |
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gchuba |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 8:09 AM
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Yeh Butch......I suspected the cylinder because the seals/O rings only offer an 1/16" +- clearance between the interior wall of the cylinder and the piston head. If the down position some how flexed the cylinder it may have worn the the seal rings on one side and created metal to metal. The cylinders are easy to take apart with the correct tools. If the pump/steering assembly is the culprit......needs a replacement. Either way continuing to boat would not be an option I would choose. That metal is a major concern.
Garris
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Acseatsri |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 8:19 AM
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I would definitely start at the helm pump, as I doubt there are any parts in the steering cylinder that would produce metal shavings in the oil, let alone being able to migrate into the pump from the cylinder.
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gchuba |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 8:58 AM
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I have rebuilt cylinders in the past. Not that difficult. The steering mechanism a different animal altogether. I would not even know how to test it and I have seen a parts schematic for them. Not anything this dirt mechanic would tackle. If my boat, I would open up the cylinder (easiest and not too complicated job). If it checks out clean......order a new steering assembly. With metal present not rebuild-able.
Garris
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jamesgt727 |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 5:03 PM
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If you have to replace it, try a UFLEX system, I've had it on every boat I've owned except my boat with verados. Good luck so far
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butchdavis |
Posted on 09/08/16 - 6:25 AM
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Uflex hydraulic steering came with the Verado on our 190 Montauk and it is sweet. The cylinder is labeled Mercury but it's Uflex. Not long ago the cylinder seals on the port side developed a leak. We have to expect these things, but finding the parts and special tool to repair the cylinder was a real goat rope. Doable but not nearly as easily as with Teleflex.
Butch |
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