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My recent purchase of a BW 1996 Dauntless 15 came with an aft casting deck-a feature of what was called the sportsman package and included a post mount fishing seat in the center of the platform. The previous owner cut a hole on the port side for a Tempress storage hatch 13x24 which was not watertight. I removed it to replace it with a TH Marine hatch that fits the cutout. When doing so I discovered the interior fill was moldy and rotted and soaking wet. I scooped out the loose stuff to about 2 inches from the cut out edge where it feels somewhat firm, but still soft. My plan was to fill the 2 inches of rot I removed with a 2 x 1/2" slat of composite decking using 5200 to fill the voids. Then let that dry before reinstalling the new hatch. I'm concerned the rot goes deeper, perhaps all the way to the fishing seat and don't know what would be the best solution.
Hello KQMichigan and welcome to W/C, congrat's on your purchase.
I can't recall their being a post mount fishing chair in the rear casting deck as a factory option, there was a storage box option that was installed on the port side of platform with some Dauntless 15's.
I recall the post mount fishing chair (if optioned) was mounted onto the anchor storage hatch.
With regards to your concern, you may need to drill some small (1/8" diameter) holes at the underside of platform in key locations around the perimeter of cut-out (and up to where you removed damaged coring) to check if substrate weeps moisture. Be careful not to punch through the platform as to not damage the "non-skid" finish.
The coring material is fairly thick (roughly 3/4") and multi-layered, perhaps you can back fill the damaged areas with a 2-part epoxy from West Marine. One type that I have used with success is West Systems Six-10, research some options that are resin based as opposed to a material sandwich with just 5200.
Our rear casting platforms are non-existent in the used markets/listings, a strong and long lasting repair is best.
The rear fishing chair looks factory. The Tempress Hatch looks aftermarket and cheap. Definitely not factory. I can take the casting platform off to pour some resin into the void. Should I try to remove as much of the filler as I can?
Am I using fiber with the epoxy? Should I do any kind of framework using 1/2" composite or is the cutout going to be strong enough to support standing on the platform.
Are you planning to remove the storage box altogether and rebuild opening?
The core material isn't all foam filler it was a BW "composite" sandwich also utilizing foam. You may need to remove more core material if it appears there is further penetration of moisture.
If you do plan to eliminate the storage box, replicating the "non-skid" top finish will require planning on your part.
You may use a core material in your rebuild (1/2" marine plywood, etc.) as you mentioned. If you can chop/strand a light weave of fiberglass mat and incorporate it with the epoxy back fill, results should be appropriate.
If you plan to continue with the "in-deck" storage box then plan for a good finished edge through-out perimeter of existing cut-out to eliminate this situation from occurring again.
The rebuild project is very doable but will require patience and good repair material sourcing for a great outcome.
I'm going to replace the current hatch with one that fits the opening. I purchased a TH Marine Sure Seal hatch and liner that looks acceptable. http://thmarine.com/sure-seal-hatch-locking.html
I have removed the casting platform from the boat and the fishing seat mount. Low and behold, I found more wet rot around the seat mount cutout. I have used a screwdriver and coat hanger and gutted out as much soft material as I can. It was like wet tobacco coming out of there. The void around the fishing seat is now about 6x6 extending beyond the bolt holes. Now that the platform is out of the boat I can easily pour a syrupy product into the voids.
I've read about penetrating wood products like CPES, GitRot and Abatron LiquidWood and I'd like to try one of these in the areas where I still have remaining plywood. in other areas I would need something that will harden to support sitting and standing in areas where no plywood remains. I'd like to avoid cutting open from the underside as the shell is still very strong and I've never done repair work like this before and don't want to muck it up.
I'm heading over to fiberglass repair section to read what I can.
My other question is "How did this happen?" Could the boat stern have been submerged for a long time? Or is it possible water getting in from the screw holes could do this much damage?
I'm sorry to here that the moisture damage has expanded into another area. I suspect the fishing seat was added to the platform by the previous owner and not factory installed. I have yet to come across a Dauntless 15 with this rear seat setup (unless it was a special order).
How did this happen you ask, the damage could be as simple as a poor installation of the pedestal socket into the deck (inadequate sealant, loose hardware, etc.). The rear deck gets pretty wet from a day of fun boating and swimming activities (people boarding from swim platform, kids water toys) I know mine does and lets not forget exposure to the elements (rain) and fresh water hose wash-downs.
Your Dauntless 15 is the same year as mine so we have both inherited previous owners' mistakes, it goes with the territory unfortunately. Just for piece of mind, check around your area for a reputable boat/fiberglass repair shop if possible and bounce repair ideas off of them and what they might charge for a proper repair/finish should you be inclined to contract them.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, finding a used (and in good condition) rear deck for our Dauntless 15's is a very, very, rare occurrence so getting yours back in shape would be a worthy consideration. Definitely research any and all repair methods and options available to you, if Gel coat comes into the equation maybe consider contracting the repair.
You are right, I'll never find a replacement platform. BW destroyed the molds in 2006. It still looks like new so worth doing all I can to save it. My neighbor suggested I cut out the bottom and attach new plywood. Not wild about doing that. I'm fairly confident I can do this myself, but I will take it somewhere for an evaluation and bids. The shops see me coming a mile away and double their rates it seems. They don't like to deal with females either. I've learned to drag my husband around even though he hasn't a clue what they are saying.
My husband would kill for a 90 4 stroke on this Dauntless.
Thanks for the tips
KathyMichigan
1996 Dauntless 15 Sportsman Pkg, 2003 Mercury 40HP 4 stroke
The reason most boat shops dread dealing with a female boater is:
Females are better negotiators (a least my wife is) and they will see through the B.S. quickly...
I have complete confidence that you can tackle the project the question is; with the level of coring damage and limited access for repair (unless you penetrate from the underside) how much time and energy are you willing to commit.
If you feel that you can source proper materials and create a method (based on your research) to rebuild, strengthen, and seal the damaged areas from future water intrusion then by all means.
Like yourself, I too like doing my own repairs when I'm familiar with the task (regardless of project). Sometimes I tend to get overwhelmed when "Murphy's Law" (what can go wrong typically will) pop's up in the middle of a process and ruins the endeavor. Your rear casting deck has been compromised and I suspect your husband and you really enjoy the Dauntless, if the repair ends up weak it will nag at you both.
A four-stroke 90 is to heavy for the Dauntless 15, I have a Yamaha 2-stroke 90 (much lighter) and yes...you guys would really enjoy the "get up and go".
