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HELP/ADVICE -1986 17 Super Sport repower E-TEC 90 or 90 H.O.?
consciencebay
#41 Print Post
Posted on 05/30/16 - 7:12 AM
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yes i have a 17in stainless from my old engine....was perfect so wanted to keep it. i am entitled to a new stainless from Evinrude as part of the package, so the dealer said to see how she performs and then we will pick a stainless to order and i can get if for free.
how do you raise a motor yourself? I'm very handy, but 390 lbs?

 
JRP
#42 Print Post
Posted on 05/30/16 - 8:44 AM
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consciencebay wrote:....
how do you raise a motor yourself? I'm very handy, but 390 lbs?


Block of wood under the skeg and trailer tongue jack.

 
gchuba
#43 Print Post
Posted on 05/30/16 - 9:16 AM
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A buddy or two to help balance the motor with JRP's excellent advice. Let the jack do the work.
Garris

 
Phil T
#44 Print Post
Posted on 05/30/16 - 11:25 AM
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Remember to reseal the holes with a polysulfide marine caulk.

 
Perichbrothers
#45 Print Post
Posted on 05/30/16 - 2:08 PM
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consciencebay wrote:
When i am fully up on plane and running at 3ish mph or AS i am planing?

Planing speed

JRP wrote:
consciencebay wrote:....
how do you raise a motor yourself? I'm very handy, but 390 lbs?


Block of wood under the skeg and trailer tongue jack.


The bottom bolts don't come off they slide when loose,
only remove the tops come out.
A clamp helps too.
TP

 
tedious
#46 Print Post
Posted on 05/31/16 - 2:24 AM
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CB, the key to the process is to remove the upper bolts and just loosen the lower ones, so the motor can slide in the slots.

If you have a floor jack, you can put it under the skeg to lift the motor.

If not, you can use the trailer jack to lift it - lower the jack all the way down, then put a block under the skeg to support the motor. Remove/loosen the bolts, then crank the jack up to lower the transom while the motor stays in place.

You'll need to re-caulk the bolt holes, but that's no big deal.

Tim

 
Weatherly
#47 Print Post
Posted on 05/31/16 - 3:48 AM
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I would not use the skeg as the push point to raise the 390 lb E-Tec 90 HO. I would instead use the lifting eyelet mounted on the back top section of the powerhead. That is the preferred lifting method.

When mounting an E-Tec 90 3 cylinder inline or the E-Tec 90 4 cylinder onto a BW17 smirked hull, the anti-ventilation plate should be between 2-3 inches above the centerline bottom of the hull, or just above the exterior brass drain tube.

That means the E-Tec 90HO should be mounted to the transom in the 4th mounting position or "three holes up."

The anti-ventilation plate on the E-Tec motors are set back on the lower units, so, the higher you get them, the cleaner the water is for them to operate more efficiently.

Also, be sure to purchase the static trim pin (no longer a standard feature, but optional) and install it at position number 2. This will be important over the lifespan of the motor, to preserve the integrity and function of the trim/tilt assembly.

You might find the Morse control to be inadequate for operating the E-Tec 90 trim/tilt. The BRP binnacle is superb for combined throttle and trim function with the trim switch right there on the shifter for your thumb to operate.

Do you really want to let go with one hand (from steering or shift/throttle) in order to trim the motor at a separate switch?


Edited by Weatherly on 05/31/16 - 3:56 AM
 
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