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1989 22 outrage with whaler drive
SD Whaler	#1  Posted on 12/29/15 - 9:50 PM
Member Posts: 17 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/28/15	I'm in the process of restoring a 22 outrage with whaler drive.... is there a place where I can see the actual floor plans? I want to see where all the drains go.... not sure if previous owner modified. This boat is different from my previous outrages. any info and advice would be apreciated. Thanks
Phil T	#2  Posted on 12/30/15 - 9:27 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6988 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Under MAIN, Articles, Repair Articles is a detailed writeup of a deck repair and includes photos of the fuel tank cavity, rigging tunnels etc. http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...ticle_id=8 Assuming that you have the closed transom, the rear splashwell will be different and transom drains deleted. What specific questions do you have?
SD Whaler	#3  Posted on 12/31/15 - 8:54 PM
Member Posts: 17 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/28/15	The previous owner filled in center lower section (where the drain plug would go if it didn't have a whaler drive, they also added 3" scupper type tubes that go out towards the WD (not sure if that's stock or not.... I'd assume if it were original, it wouldn't be pvc) also, there's 2 holes in back transom wall. I also want to add an additional bilge pump (one on std side and one on port side and one from where the aerator pump would normally go) so I have to make larger cover where the thru hull go.... (plus the one up front)
SD Whaler	#4  Posted on 12/31/15 - 9:23 PM
Member Posts: 17 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/28/15	thanks for the response, I got some great ideas from pictures.
Finnegan	#5  Posted on 12/31/15 - 11:42 PM
Member Posts: 1925 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	The drain features you describe were from the factory, and on all Whaler Drive/Full Transom 22's and 25's. The transom sump 1" through-hull is filled in, and to evacuate water from that area a 500 GPH bilge pump is installed, either the automatic kind, or with a separate float switch. These are direct wired, with no switch, although I have added a transom mounted override switch to mine to avoid constant cycling is there is weight in the stern of boat while docked, etc, The water enters by back flowing into the boat though the two 3" evacuation drains. The port side floor sump typically does not come with a bilge pump, but it is adviseable to add one, also direct wired with an override switch. The two large 3" diameter splashwell drains and through-transom drains are to evacuate a large amount of water should it come into the boat, such as taking a large wae, etc. With the closed-in transom, there is no way to quickly get rid of this water, hence the large holes. In outboard cut transom models these are not needed, since the water can simply flow out the back over the transom. In mine, the stern floor center bait well also came with a dash controlled areator pump and spray head unit, which have valves so it can do double duty to get rid of water that will flow into the well off the boat floor. If yours doens't have this, it should be re-installed, with or without the areator capability.
SD Whaler	#6  Posted on 01/01/16 - 9:18 PM
Member Posts: 17 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/28/15	Do you have any pictures of inside the transom area? Do the scuppers from engine well have hoses connected to them?
wjd	#7  Posted on 01/11/16 - 4:28 PM
Member Posts: 37 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/06/14	SD WHALER, I recently restored a 1989 22' outrage with whaler drive. in my opinion, when boston whaler decided to close in the transom of our boats it was a bit of an after thought and the plumbing was poorly conceived. As far as i can tell, the factory did the following: -Filled in the splashwell with polyurethane foam and screwed a plastic cover over it. mine leaked and the foam was soaked -At this new "floor level" they added a drain on each side that drained water from this area out into a void between the transom and the whaler drive. mine were poorly installed and had little to no sealant used. be sure to check this. -They also added two drains that drain water from the main deck through to the aft area. again these are pvc and poorly installed with minimal sealant. -They added two pvc rigging tubes to the upper part of the transom. check the seals! It sounds like your outrage is set up similarly to the way the factory originally set it up. for what its worth, here is what i did to mine: -Re-installed the transom drains properly sealed with 5200 -Re-foamed and then glassed over the splashwell -Glassed over the aft bulkhead drains and drilled new drain holes to allow water to go from the floor through drains in the aft corners into the rigging tunnels and then into the lowest point in the bilge. -Installed a bilge pump at this lowest point -Drilled and glassed in rigging tunnels from the aft area to the exinsting tunnels to get away from the cables, wires and hoses being exposed in the aft corners. now it is a much smoother run from the console to the motors there are a mess of photos on the attached link. maybe its useful... I hope this helps. Cheers! http://s96.photobucket.com/user/wdunl.../slideshow (Fixed linked as requested. No problem) Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/11/16 - 4:55 PM
Joe Kriz	#8  Posted on 01/11/16 - 4:46 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11432 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	wjd, that link doesn't work. Something is missing and replaced with dots... (Edit: I fixed the link for you. No problem and thanks) Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/11/16 - 4:56 PM
wjd	#9  Posted on 01/11/16 - 4:50 PM
Member Posts: 37 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/06/14	http://s96.photobucket.com/user/wdunl.../slideshow Im sorry Joe. perhaps you could edit the link for me... Edited by Phil T on 01/12/16 - 9:46 AM
Joe Kriz	#10  Posted on 01/11/16 - 5:01 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11432 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	WOW. You got that hull looking new. Nice work.
Simon	#11  Posted on 01/11/16 - 8:57 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/16/15	Wow. That's a good looking boat. Good job!
SD Whaler	#12  Posted on 01/11/16 - 11:53 PM
Member Posts: 17 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/28/15	looks awesome! Thanks. I will upload pics of progress
wjd	#13  Posted on 01/13/16 - 5:08 PM
Member Posts: 37 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/06/14	Thanks for the compliments guys. I will look forward to your photos SD
SD Whaler	#14  Posted on 01/13/16 - 9:33 PM
Member Posts: 17 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/28/15	I have one more question wjd, what kind of seats did you go with? mine came with a leaning post but had holes where it had seat pedestals. I have a new set of seats I want to use but was wondering what length pedestal should I use? as you can see, I have a super console that has a box on top,
wjd	#15  Posted on 01/15/16 - 8:05 AM
Member Posts: 37 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/06/14	Hi SD, Have another look at the photos. You will see that I reinstalled the factory leaning post - one that might be the same as yours. You will also see that I modified the console to eliminate the extra box that you mention. I prefer the electronics to be flush mounted and wanted the overall height to be lower.
SD Whaler	#16  Posted on 01/16/16 - 7:43 PM
Member Posts: 17 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/28/15	WOW!! I didn't see the last pictures last time. I like what you did by running wires through back. She looks very nice. I hope mine comes out half as nice. I kept her stock, no mods. (if I would've seen your pics before, that would be another story) She's not my first Outrage makeover and wont be the last..... next time! I'm also working on a 27' vigilant pilot house (ex port police boat) Thanks once again for your help
scubadog	#17  Posted on 01/19/16 - 2:26 PM
Member Posts: 62 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/04/10	WJD, I see you re-did the underside of your deck plate over. I'm in the early stages of removing the plywood off the underside of my 25' Revenge. Did you use 3 layers of 1/4" marine plywood? 1 full piece per layer? What a fantastic job!! The Whale Drive looks great, that will be my next project. It was nice to see your pictures to understand it.
SD Whaler	#18  Posted on 01/19/16 - 7:49 PM
Member Posts: 17 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/28/15	I'm redoing the deck and decided to put the tubes through the back wall, as you did. Like I said before, I would have done more of what you did, if I'd seen it earlier. Great job! congrats!!
wjd	#19  Posted on 01/20/16 - 7:31 AM
Member Posts: 37 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/06/14	Hi Scubadog, Thanks for the compliment. When I re-did the deck panels in my boat, I used only two layers. The material that I removed was in many places rotten but it was clear that the original layup was two layers of ply with a layer of chopped strand glass between them. I chose to use birch plywood made from WBP glues. This is effectively marine grade. I used two layers of 1/2" milled down such that the overall buildup including the fibreglass would be just about 15/16". I also let in 1/2" x 4" aluminum flat bar in strategic areas so that I could drill and tap the fasteners for the console, leaning post, T top etc... The result is, in my opinion, very stiff and better than the factory. Good luck with your project. Hi SD, Measure twice and build a jig to guide the hole saw. There is a clear path through but there isn't much extra room to play with. Good luck.
scubadog	#20  Posted on 01/25/16 - 5:02 PM
Member Posts: 62 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/04/10	WJD, I'm getting ready to foam in my new tank next month. Is there anything you learned you could share to make this project an easier one? Thanks, Scubadog.