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Proper trailer setup for whaler
acassidy	#1  Posted on 09/27/15 - 8:29 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 268 Comments: 1 Joined: 11/21/05	I have a 1977 Lowprofile 19 on an aluminum trailer. The trailer originally had 4 long 2/6 bunks. I replaced the outside bunks with 4 by 12 vertical bunks to support the outside of the hull. The inside bunk 2/6 need replacing. The trailer has no keel rollers. Should I remove the center bunks and replace with wide keel rollers on the supports. I could probably install 4 or 5 keel roller since the axles are fixed because they are torsion axles. Most of the weight of the boat in the back rest on the outside big supports. The front is really supported more with the inside bunks. Should the supports be on the keel more? Or is it ok like it is. Thanks Archie
Joe Kriz	#2  Posted on 09/27/15 - 12:56 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Take a look at this: http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...?cat_id=18
Finnegan	#3  Posted on 11/03/15 - 7:29 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	My classic Outrage 19 sits on this trailer, and it is so easy to launch and retrieve a kid could do it. It's Continental Model C-8 in 2800 # capacity. Cost about $1800 with the double Stoltz rollers on SS shafts. A configuration like this should work well for your LoProfile. Keel rollers and the small 2 x 4 side bunks make it easy to keep the unpainted bottom clean and looking like new. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...6344460387
jackjax	#4  Posted on 01/21/16 - 12:33 PM
Member Posts: 21 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/21/15	The trailers posted here, will it work with 1997 Dauntless 17ft? Thanks
Phil T	#5  Posted on 01/21/16 - 12:52 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	While each model has a different setup to fit the hull, the trailer Joe and Finnigan discuss would work on your model. The adjustment will be the height of the rollers (so hull clears fenders) and the width and height of bunks to support hull. Being in Florida, you have lots of brands to choose from.
bradsc	#6  Posted on 01/21/16 - 2:49 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 118 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/15/11	Joe's "Proper Trailer Set-up" example is the best way. There are still old school guys that like the roller trailers. I think the best choice would be to replace the two center 2x6's. You can run the two new 2x6's fairly close together and support the keel for as long as you can. If you want keel rollers, they generally do not come in contact with the keel and are more used to keep the keel from hitting the cross members coming off or on the trailer. My center bunks support all most all the boat's weight. This helps keep the boat straight and level and keeps the boat from bouncing against the bow stop roller. I have mine adjusted so the bow eye snugs up against the bow stop roller. My winch is also set so the strap pulls the boat down on the bow stop roller. This locks the boat tight against the winch stand.
Phil T	#7  Posted on 01/21/16 - 5:05 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6994 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	I respectfully disagree with some of Brad's comments above. With a keel roller and bunk trailer the keel rollers DO come into contact with the keel. They support the weight of the boat. https://picasaweb.google.com/11004423...2902167362 The winch should be at a height on the post so the strap pulls the boat straight and level up to the eye. The bow stop should rest on the keel just above and touching the top of the bow eye. Here is example. The bow eye is just below the roller. Note I rewound my strap to pull from below the drum instead of above to get it horizontal. https://picasaweb.google.com/11004423...7428785842 If the strap is pulling the bow down, you will be torquing the eye downward and it will get loose over time. See Binkie's repair article.
bradsc	#8  Posted on 01/21/16 - 7:31 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 118 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/15/11	Phil, you can have all the weight of a boat on a few rollers, but why? That is how they did it in the 70's. The boat can roll off the trailer when on the ramp. The boat can roll forward or rearward during trailering. The rollers can put stress points on the keel. There is not much surface area supporting the weight of the boat. As the boat is trailered, it can bounce slightly on just a few rollers. Again, you could use rollers but why would you not want to distribute the weight over a much great surface area? My bow eye is below the roller stop. The strap pull, the bow, and the bow eye snug against the roller stop holds the boat tightly in place. I just reread your post and think you said you changed the wrap direction of your winch from the picture. You do not want upward pull from your strap. I should have said a slight downward pull angle. My down pull is less than your pictures up pull. Archie, I think you can see from social media, we all have our way of doing things. All my whaler trailers had or have bunks. Some go rollers. Do what you think is best for your application. Good luck and happy boating. Edit speling agan Edited by bradsc on 01/21/16 - 7:39 PM
bradsc	#9  Posted on 01/22/16 - 3:55 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 118 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/15/11	Archie, check this out. There are several pictures of lowpro's on trailers http://www.2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum...1225856619 old school http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rabne...1.jpg.html new school Edited by bradsc on 01/22/16 - 4:35 AM
jackjax	#10  Posted on 01/24/16 - 6:20 PM
Member Posts: 21 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/21/15	bradsc wrote: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/rabne...1.jpg.html new school Or by Joe: http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=117 This is what I have right now http://www.rayside.com/images/upload/...830_lg.gif Not to hijack this thread, however, I am was not convinced this was a right fit for my dauntless. The two above are what I am looking forward since its the less work to rebuild (hopefully) Thanks! Edited by jackjax on 01/24/16 - 6:25 PM
bradsc	#11  Posted on 01/25/16 - 6:34 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 118 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/15/11	Jack, My 17 Montauk's trailer was set up like yours. It had that one support up front. We trailer a lot! I started to notice a few very fine spider cracks on the gunnels right in line with that front support. Could have been an acquiescence. We also use a few ramps that are on creeks and bays. When the tide is ripping, you had to time your approach just right. So it wasn't long before I decided to get rid of the center support and go with 2 long center bunks. The boat trailers better with less bouncing, there are no new spider cracks, and is so much easier to get back on the trailer on those fun ramps. When the current is ripping, I will not back the trailer as far down in the water. If I get the bow close, the bunks will center and hold the boat in place. I used 2x4 treated lumber and galvanized bunk supports. Make sure you get monel staples to attach the carpet. I would suggest putting a keel roller or a cross member pad on the front cross member. We have a ramp that is very steep and the bow will come in contact with the front cross member. I have noticed some new trailers with the big back bunks, like ours, then have a shorter set of bunks closer together between the front and middle cross members. This supports the front part of the boat and the big rear ones support the heavier stern section. I watched several people with this set up launch and retrieve and it looked like it worked great. You might want to consider this set up or go long . Joe's example of a 4 bunk trailer with the center bunks going almost full length would be my first choice. Good luck with tweaking your trailer! Edited by bradsc on 01/25/16 - 7:13 AM