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Side Rail Restoration
wlagarde	#1  Posted on 09/02/15 - 8:51 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	I decided to re-chrome (or replace; haven't decided which yet) my side rail stanchions, tee fittings, and bases (the chrome is somewhat pitted on the original pieces) so I removed and disassembled them. I have discovered that the main rail tubes are 1 piece and the tee fittings won't slide around the bends (looks like whaler slid the t-fittings in place and then bent the tubes. To get them off it looks like I will need to cut the main tubes in half (unless there is a trick I am missing here). If I took this approach the cuts would be located within the center of the tee fittings so they are hidden. Since there is a stanchion located at each vertical railing member the railings should still be rigid but I am concerned that they might lose too much strength by doing this. Has anyone done this? Is there another trick I am missing? Has anyone purchased the Specialty Marine side rails - are they one piece or two? Thanks in advance for the groups help. Bill Edited by wlagarde on 09/02/15 - 9:15 PM 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
Finnegan	#2  Posted on 09/02/15 - 9:18 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	The probelm of having to replace the tee fittings is farily common, since in most cases Whaler used chrome plated Zamac fitting, much to my surprise. Accordingly, much has been written about the solution, which involves cutting the rail as you describe, at exactly the center of the where the tee goes. The fix involves inserting a "hot dog" piece of rail material inside the the original rails, after, of course, the new fitting is slid on. You can do a site search for "hot dog" for additional info and other ways to accomplish this repair. I fixed the non-factory side rails on my Outrage 19 this way, an in my case I used about a 15" length of 3/4" O.D aluminum rail ( I could not readily source 3/4" SS rail tubing), glued in place with Gorilla glue. After 6 years, they are still rock solid. I strongly recommend you use the newer allen compression screw type fittings, which do not require any holdes drilled into the rails, often the cause of the stripped out rail fitting failures. I find these newer type of fittings NEVER rattle or come loose and are far superior to the type Whaler originally used. The entire bow rail on my Ribside 21 is done with these tee fittings, and the rail has been rock solid, no rattles or loosening, for 11 years now.
wlagarde	#3  Posted on 09/03/15 - 6:56 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Finnegan thank you! 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
wlagarde	#4  Posted on 09/03/15 - 1:29 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Finnegan - I have decided to replace the old fittings with new 316 stainless ones and I plan to use the newer style tee as you recommend. How do you weigh in on the best way to cut the tubing? - high quality pipe cutter? 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
Tom Hemphill	#5  Posted on 09/03/15 - 3:22 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 136 Comments: 1 Joined: 01/19/08	wlagarde wrote: Finnegan - I have decided to replace the old fittings with new 316 stainless ones and I plan to use the newer style tee as you recommend. How do you weigh in on the best way to cut the tubing? - high quality pipe cutter? My high quality (RIDGID brand) tubing cutter worked fine for that task when I did it.
gchuba	#6  Posted on 09/03/15 - 5:44 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	For cutting, a band saw works best and I also have used a cutting blade on a 4 1/2" angle grinder (some clean up work). I have not used my rigid pipe cutter. With other pipe uses it left a compressed inner circle from cutting. Might be hard to fit in a "hot dog". I also use 7/8" 316 stainless rail as a "hot dog" for my 1" rail. Garris
wlagarde	#7  Posted on 09/03/15 - 6:59 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Thanks to everyone for the ideas. I used a pipe cutter to score the rail and then I used a hack saw to cut. After that I cleaned up the edge with an angle grinder. Worked perfect and the result is very clean. Parts are ordered 2-day shipping so I should have them tomorrow and will assemble this weekend. Still need to source the "hot dogs". 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
gchuba	#8  Posted on 09/03/15 - 10:00 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	I have some scrap 7/8" 316 kicking around. I do not know which rail diameter you have but can send some shorties if they will work for you. If I recall be precise on your cuts. A tight fit, tough to separate. Garris
wlagarde	#9  Posted on 09/04/15 - 4:24 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Garris - That is very generous of you. Let me take some measurements and see what I can find locally. If I have challenges I will contact you. 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
wlagarde	#10  Posted on 09/04/15 - 5:51 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 442 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/21/13	Job completed. I used 15" length of 3/4" O.D aluminum rail for the hot dogs and glued in place with Gorilla glue per Finnegan's recs. Came out really nice. Thanks to everyone for your ideas and help. 1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke