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In the process of (finally) getting the wood back on our 1981 Montauk.
This includes replacing the wooden base/support of fiberglass center console. A family friend milled mohogony to match the old pieces (I think I researched that as being the right material).
Holes all seem to line up... Before installing should the wood be treated or sealed? Anything else before reattaching?
Although Whaler used mahogany, lightly coated with a urethane finish at best, I would have had the console cleats re-done in teak. It is too bad you not get that recommendation. Besides being completely impervious to water and the often wet conditions on the floor of a boat, teak holds screws much better, and without stripping out.
The 1977-1982 black vinyl faced center console did have problems with mahogany cleat deterioration and lack of holding power. On mine, a 1979, the cleats were still good, but the Whaler installer installed them downwards at an angle, sometimes even hitting the non-skid floor, with less than perfect holding power. By raising the console 6"on teak blocking, I eliminated the problem automatically.
To answer your question, coat them WELL with varnish or some other similar material, I would recommend at least 6 coats. I do not use epoxy coatings, but I suppose that could be used also.
If mahogany, you want them well protected, all surfaces.
The console interior floor cleat was mahogany while the exterior finish piece of wood was teak. I have used raw linseed oil to seal mahogany wood floor cleats. Thompsons water seal or a two part epoxy will also work good to seal the floor cleats for years. Its great that the floor cleat holes line up, but what is the condition of the deck holes? Are they rounded out? I recommend you replace all the old stainless screws (especially if you have regular head screws like the hardware installed on the 1970's era Montauk 17's) with brand new phillips head hardware. The regular head screws when re-used will bend or break when fastened into new mahogany. Always predrill your horizontal fasteners so you are certain to screw into the cleat, not the deck. As difficult as it may be, I always use a screw driver not a drill to install the floor cleat screws; that way I am certain not to strip out the hole.
