1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

1989 Montauk 17 gas tank question
action	#1  Posted on 04/27/15 - 11:15 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	My 1989 Montauk has 2 gas tanks I want to replace. One is a red plastic 12 gallon and the other a red plastic 6 gallon. Both are kind of ratty and I don't think either is original. They sit under the RPS and are kind of held in place by a wooden frame. They sit right on the deck as opposed to a mat. I picked up a used white Moeller 22 gallon tank and was checking it out on the weekend. It does not fit into the wooden frame so I postponed the job for now. I plan to remove the frame and fasten the tank to the deck with Moeller hold down brackets. Does anyone know if this meets all of the USCG rules and if it will make any changes to the equipment required to be carried.
Phil T	#2  Posted on 04/27/15 - 4:56 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	The Moeller meets USCG regs. What wooden frame are you talking about? It does not sounds like an add on. All you need is 4 footman loops and some straps.
action	#3  Posted on 04/27/15 - 5:36 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	I only get to the boat on weekends or I would send a photo. The "frame" is made out of wooden strips about 1"X 1" fastened to the deck and surrounds both tanks. It looks like it may have been added to keep the tanks from sliding around. Looks like Moeller P/N 035711-10 would give me the straps and footman loops ($50). I was thinking of using the Moeller metal "straps" P/N 035710 ($27) They are on this page...3rd and 4th items down. http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermar...cessories/
Joe Kriz	#4  Posted on 04/27/15 - 6:19 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	These were original: http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=698
action	#5  Posted on 04/27/15 - 6:32 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	Thanks for the link to the photo Joe. The boat definitely does not still have the original mats. The tanks sit right on the deck. Someone did a fairly nice job of installing the wooden frame countersinking the screw into the deck and filling the holes with wooden plugs. I'm debating whether to put the Moeller tank right on the deck also or put some kind of map under it. I'm hoping some members that installed the Moeller tank will chime in. I'm also interested in what method they used to secure it.
WRufus	#6  Posted on 04/27/15 - 6:32 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 73 Comments: 1 Joined: 01/15/13	there have been a few threads in the past on this topic. I am in a similar boat as you. I have the moeller 22G white topside tank and under it are the 1989 OEM tank mats that are riveted too the deck. I have been thinking of taking others advice and replacing the old OEM mats with Dri-Dek (to fiit under the tank) I too am figuring out how to best secure it i.e. secure it with the moeller tank hold down kit (straps) or the moeller permanent fuel tank hold down kit (Stainless brackets). That said, I read reviews about the stainless not holding up....pitting, etc. before patching old holes and drilling new ones, I want to do it right the first time. So trying to figure out the best move myself Edited by WRufus on 04/27/15 - 6:38 PM 1989 Montauk 17' w/ F70 Yamaha
action	#7  Posted on 04/28/15 - 3:26 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	FYI...I got a quote from a local outfit in NJ to make a custom aluminum tank to my dimensions and got this: job: [1] gas tank 25 gal. [1] baffle [1] ground tab [1] fill with vented cap [1] pick up tube [1] sender mounting plate pressure test to 5.lb air mat: 1/8" [.125] thick alum. 5052 grade epoxy coat ext. of tank price: $390.00 shipping: ? del. [5] work days
action	#8  Posted on 04/28/15 - 7:50 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	The company that makes the aluminum tank said it needs to be grounded. I don't see any provision for grounding the Moeller plastic tank.
Phil T	#9  Posted on 04/28/15 - 12:34 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	USCG regulations do not require above deck plastic tanks to be grounded.
action	#10  Posted on 04/28/15 - 12:57 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	Thanks Phil. I'll likely stick with the Moeller anyhow since I already have it. I'l'l keep an eye out here for any installation suggestion that may show up to help me do it right the first time. One additional question I had was whether to run the fuel line directly to a barb in the tank connector or continue to use the already existing Evinrude quick connect.
Phil T	#11  Posted on 04/28/15 - 3:10 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	My personal opinion for fuel line and connectors is to replace them periodically, especially fuel fittings. I like the high quality metal disconnects. While you have an OEM connector for the motor, the tank side is up to you.
wing15601	#12  Posted on 04/28/15 - 4:53 PM
Member Posts: 699 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/12	I have the Moeller 22 Gal tank on my 1984 Montauk 17. It's mounted under the RPS and was held down with those nylon straps but it's still moved around a little so I used the stainless hold-down brackets. My tank sits on the two original rubber mats with the edge lip removed where they meet giving a large flat area for the tank so sit on. I don't think you really need anything under it if you use the brackets to hold it still. Anything not a solid surface, like strips of teak or plastic or rubber is just going to be putting hard spots on the bottom of the tank rather than even flat level support. By the way, that same tank, same dimensions and all, used to be rated at 24 gal but I think because the fill is aft in the boat that side of the tank is lower so you can only get 22 gal in there. In any case. love mine. I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
action	#13  Posted on 04/29/15 - 3:23 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	When I remove the existing wood strips from the deck, what is recommended to seal the holes? Should I also use some sealant on the new screw for the tank hold down brackets? I guess #10 1 1/4" flat head screws should be about right for those stainless brackets (don't have them in front of me).
wing15601	#14  Posted on 04/29/15 - 8:43 AM
Member Posts: 699 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/12	I would use pan head screws and bed them liberally with 3M 4200 or something on that order. Not silicone. As for the wood strips I would just clean out the screw holes and fill with MarineTex. I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
action	#15  Posted on 04/30/15 - 3:15 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	Thanks. I have 4200. Will any marine putty epoxy work to fill the old holes? They will be mostly covered by the Moeller tank I could also fill them with 5200.
wing15601	#16  Posted on 04/30/15 - 7:26 AM
Member Posts: 699 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/12	If the holes would be hidden, not liking to do any more work than I have to, I would probably use 5200 too. I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
blacksmithdog	#17  Posted on 05/01/15 - 3:43 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 417 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/26/06	action wrote: Thanks. I have 4200. Will any marine putty epoxy work to fill the old holes? They will be mostly covered by the Moeller tank I could also fill them with 5200. I really like that West System Six10. I always have a tube of it and a few extra nozzles. You do need a good caulking gun (not a Harry Homeowner POS) to squirt it out. It's pricey though. Marine Tex works well too.
action	#18  Posted on 05/01/15 - 5:47 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	I got the wooden frame out today. It was a pain getting to the screws under the wooden plugs but not too terrible. The tanks fits real nice under the RPS. I'll fasten it in place tomorrow.
action	#19  Posted on 05/02/15 - 4:38 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	The wood was fastened to the deck with 3" #10 screws. From what I see in the wood locating drawings available here, the plywood under the deck is only 1/2" thick. I think i'm going to use 1 1/4" long #12 screws to fasten the hold down brackets.
action	#20  Posted on 05/02/15 - 12:12 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 208 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/03/15	The tank is in!