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Hardware - Screws/Bolts/Washers for putting wood back on boat
shrimpngrits
#1 Print Post
Posted on 04/13/15 - 3:54 PM
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I've taken all the wood off my 1985 BW Montauk and just finished refinishing everything with many coats of varnish. Unfortunately I was not extremely organized and I just put all the screws and hardware in a bucket(not smart).
I want to make sure I put the wood back together correctly, and was wondering if there was any instructions anywhere that explains how to put the wood back on the boat, and what hardware to use(I'm planning on purchasing all new SS hardware) Is there instructions or a list of hardware specs anywhere that could help?

Thanks in advance.

Bradley

 
Joe Kriz
#2 Print Post
Posted on 04/13/15 - 4:06 PM
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What wood on a Montauk?
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=14

Can you be more specific?
Any photos?

 
shrimpngrits
#3 Print Post
Posted on 04/13/15 - 4:30 PM
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Sorry bout that,

The wood I'm speaking about is the front locker door and casements(the frame that attaches to the hull), along with the side locker and casements. I've already found the correct hardware to use for the RPS and fire extinguisher locker. . .unfortunately I dont have any pictures at this time but I'll work on that, and I plan to put some pics up on the finished product once the wood is on the boat.

Bradley

 
Joe Kriz
#4 Print Post
Posted on 04/13/15 - 4:38 PM
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If I remember correctly they were 6/32" bolts with fender washers on the back with nylocks holding the louvered doors onto the console.

See this for a start.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=12

 
shrimpngrits
#5 Print Post
Posted on 04/13/15 - 4:49 PM
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Wow, thank you sir. This helps tremendously.

 
Finnegan
#6 Print Post
Posted on 04/13/15 - 5:34 PM
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As mentioned, all of the screws to hold the frames to the console are #6, 1" long. Whaler used oval head machine screws, but since you indicate varnish, I would instead use #6 x 1" Pan head machine screws, with a flat washer under the head. I have done this on all of mine, so that the oval head countersunk screw doesn't cut the varnish film, eventually causing failure of the finish. You can see the detail here if you look carefully.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...7890075078

The other screw detail you have to watch out for are the screw head trim rings Whalers uses, mostly on #10 or larger screws. When tightened down, they will cut your new varnish like a razor, and let water under the surface. To avoid this, first use a fender washer under the trim ring, which will lay flat agasint the varnish instead of cutting it. The smaller outer diameter fender washers are only available at West marine, and they work well in this application. If you look carefully you can see this application on the RPS pivot block screws.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...5687572863

Trim rings should also be used for the lower console teak strips:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...1266830189

Regarding your bucket of removed SS screws, pour some CLR or Limeaway into the bucket, shake them up a bit and let them soak for about 15 minutes, rinse off thoroughly, and they will be like new again, and completely useable if you need them. If any have old teak oil residue on them, soak in Amazon's one step teak cleaner overnight, and the old oil/varnish residue will come right off.


Edited by Finnegan on 04/13/15 - 5:51 PM
 
shrimpngrits
#7 Print Post
Posted on 04/14/15 - 10:18 AM
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Amazing pictures, that's one of the classiest Montauk's I've ever seen. . .I hope mine will come out somewhat like that. . . . .and thank you again Joe and Finnegan.

 
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