Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
I'm a new member, I just bought a 15 Super Sport 1987 and I am doing a medium weight restoration. I have bought all new mahogany and I am in the process of varnishing. My question is, how do you reinstall the wood with 10 coats of varnish and not damage the finish using the standard stainless finish washers? It is a lot of work and I don't want to spoil it. I am thinking of using a small flat washer under the finish washer? any thoughts? Thanks, I'm pretty excited about my new boat, she has been garage kept and has original gelcoat finish.
As you can see from the Personal Website link, all of my Whalers have varnished teak and mahogany, and for years I have been using the "washer" solution. I have a lot (too much!) experience in Whaler varnished wood work, and have learned all of the pitfalls also.
There are two types of screw fastener conditions used on all of the classic Whalers that require a washer.
The classic trim ring detail requires a FENDER washer of the same size, and in most cases these were #10 screws. The only good source I have found for these smaller diameter fender washers is West Marine, who has them in both 5/8" and 3/4" outside diameter fitting a #10 screw. 1" diameter fender washers found in the hardware stores are too large. Buy/order a package of 100 when you determine the size that works. Doing this keeps the washer from "walking" when it is tightened down, which is why conventional sized 1/4" washers don't work well. For the #14 screws Whaler used for major connections, the 1/4" washer does have to be used.
The other screw condition you will often encounter is the countersunk oval head screw, #6 and up. These will also cut into and tear up a varnished surface upon tightening. What I do here is drill out the countersink 3/8" dia drill about half the depth of the wood (thereby preserving the exact hole location on the back side), insert a matching wood peg, sanded flush, then re-drill a clean hole through the peg from the back side. This eliminates the countersink and leaves a flush top surface. Then, not re-using the oval head fastener, I replace it with a pan or truss head screw/bolt, and use a conventionally sized washer unter it. Truss head screws look the beat, but are hard to find except in bult bags from West Marine. But I think they are worth the effort. Also, often after varnishing, the holes have to be re-drilled so that the fastener passes through easily, without thread grip.
You can see examples of both conditions in this photo:
WORD OF CAUTION: I have learned the hard way that the varnish has to CURE FOR ABOUT A MONTH before using these washers and re-installing the wood. If not, the WASHER itself will BOND to the varnish, and when the washer is removed (pryed off!) it will really do some damage to your finish, taking the varnish right off. When connecting two varnished pieces together, the curing time is also needed to prevent bonding.
So plan ahead with your timing and let the finsihed varnish work cure in a heated environment.
If you do have fasteners with varnish bonded to them after removal, you can soak them overnight in a cup of one-step teak cleaner to remove it. You can also clean up teak oil stained fasteners this way. ALL teak oils have varnish in them, to varying degrees, so ALL teak cleaners have the ablility to cut and dissolve varnish.
Once agin, using this washer detail, the operative word is cure, cure and cure before re-installing. The longer, the better.
Just for reference, I stain all my wood, teak or mahogany, with ZAR brand #120 oil based teak color stain. It gives extra UV protection, and almost completely eliminates later years yellowing. I use Z-Spar #2015 Flagship varnish, which also has high UV proection, 10 to 12 coats. The stain looks deceptively dark going on, but after all the coats of varnish, barely looks any darker than un-stained wood. I know this is a contrarian opinion and practice, but after years of exposure, none of my varnish wok shows any indication of yellowing.
The finish washers you are referring to are actually called "cup" washers in the fastener industry. They really dig into wood parts as you well know. Many years ago I ha d a 25' Bertram with teak strips holding interior side panels in place. I refinished the teak with numerous coats of polyurethane and did not want the washers ruining the finish so I filled the void or "cup" area with silicone and then placed them on a piece of waxed paper (silicone against the paper) until the silicone was dry(set). The silicone provided a cushion when placed against the teak. This was a winter project so I had a lot of time for the silicone to set up.
You could also use plastic washers, which you will probably have to make yourself. Just need a couple of punches and some sheet polyethelene.
Hope this helps.
Finnegan
I know this isn't germane to this discussion but I couldn't find your email.
Can you tell me where you got the white battery box?
Thanks
Harvey
Harvey - Although the battery boxes may look white in the photos, they are actually the Whaler supplied Desert Tan boxes of the 80's, made for them by Zurn, but no longer available. They are extremely hard to find used, in decent condition. Considering you have a white interior Whaler, you probably wouldn't want one anyway. They were meant to match the Desert Tan Whalers of the period.
All of my fasteners are hidden, we fit and fully assembled the seating unit prior to final install in the boat. All of the wood is joined by screws and blocking from the undersides of the components. It's trickier to do but the net result is a cleaner if finish and it does avoid your dilemma.
Thanks for the thoughtful responses. It will be tough to wait another month to reinstall my wood parts. As it is it takes two days to put on one coat on all sides. I'll be Memorial day getting her wet!!
