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steering wheel removal problems
boydog40	#1  Posted on 11/11/14 - 6:46 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 90 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/05/08	I need some advice from you guys on your tricks to remove a OEM Whaler steering wheel from the steering head. I have tried all the tricks I have in my arsenal with the last one being a 3 jaw wheel puller only to bend the bottom frame of the steering wheel itself. it has been soaking in penetrating fluid for couple of days now also im out of options 1977 Outrage 21
wing15601	#2  Posted on 11/11/14 - 9:03 PM
Member Posts: 699 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/12	There is probably corrosion in the joint. Rap the end of the shaft with a ball peen hammer. Not just a tap and not a whap, just a rap or two. I once removed a well seasoned wheel/shaft attachment but it took several sessions over a couple of days of soaking with liquid wrench, rap, rap, pull before it came loose. I think PB Blaster is better than Liquid Wrench. I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
gchuba	#3  Posted on 11/12/14 - 5:53 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	I am in complete agreement with Wing's advice. Would like to add make sure the holding nut/washer is in place on top of the shaft (not cinched). Saves the thread when banging but when the steering wheel gives up, it comes flying off. I posted the same thread a year ago (I went to the extent to cut the rods welded to the coupling for my puller to clear the ornamental thin hub cover). Made too work for myself. I tackled several wheels since and the method really works. I owe gratitude to a member for the clue about "flying". I happen to like "Triflo with Teflon" for freeing stubborn bolts. Garris The credit goes to SeaLevel for the nut spacing. He also preferred hitting a brass pin vs the nut directly. Kamie also mentioned 2 people (one hitting, one pulling) to make the job easier Edited by gchuba on 11/12/14 - 6:01 AM
butchdavis	#4  Posted on 11/12/14 - 8:08 AM
Member Posts: 838 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/22/11	Give the oil a little more time to penetrate. Replace the nut on the shaft loosely. When using the puller apply enough pressure to put everything in tension but not enough to cause damage. Place a piece of wood on the puller screw and give it a good whack with a hammer. Don't hold back but dont damage the shaft. If that does not loosen the wheel increase the tension slightly and whack it again. Butch
boydog40	#5  Posted on 11/12/14 - 9:20 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 90 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/05/08	so what im hearing is like we say down here in the deep south "grab a bigger hammer"! thanks guys 1977 Outrage 21
tedious	#6  Posted on 11/12/14 - 2:18 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1072 Comments: 2 Joined: 09/07/08	Boy, forget the penetrating oil. Put it under medium tension (not enough to bend the wheel) with the 3-jaw puller, then use a punch and a hammer to give some firm taps to the center shaft, along the shaft axis. Basically line up the punch next to where the bolt on the 3-jaw puller is pressing, and give it some whacks. The wheel will pop right off. Tim
Finnegan	#7  Posted on 11/14/14 - 1:06 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	Back the nut up to the top of the shaft (to protect threads and restrain wheel when it brakes loose), one person pulls hard on the wheel while the other hits the shaft with a hammer. It will come right off. When re-installing, use grease and you will not have that problem again.
tedious	#8  Posted on 11/14/14 - 1:13 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1072 Comments: 2 Joined: 09/07/08	Exactly - tension combined with a sharp blow will do it. Leave the nut on to keep the wheel from hitting you in the face. Tim
Finnegan	#9  Posted on 11/14/14 - 2:12 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	.....or to keep from going out the back of the boat!