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13' Wood components
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| CaptSpike |
Posted on 11/08/14 - 1:20 PM
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Well I spent part of last week sanding down the wood components on my 13' whaler. After sanding the two side pieces that position the seats I asked my wife if her father ever replaced any of the wood pieces as these two didn't look like they were the same type of wood and they looked altered. She didn't know and I continued on. I actually got one coat of varnish on each piece. After that I definitely think they were two different types of wood. Anyway I started the seats yesterday and finished them this morning and started on the bow hatch. One thing I noticed right away on the bow hatch was on the bottom side it looked like the hatch was plywood and on the edge the first layer had been sanded away exposing some of the next layer??? I thought these were suppose to be solid Mahogany? So I went to Specialty Marines web site and sure enough they sell solid mahogany pieces to replace the bow locker wood. Then I started to think if that piece was replaced and the others weren't it might look odd. I took the dimensions from the seats off the web page and compared them to what I had. Sure enough the seats I had are wider by 3/4 of an inch. This explains the altered side rails and that the seats were also obviously replaced (but with what?). So I ended up ordering a complete set from Specialty marine. I tried to call them but they were closed for the weekend. One question I had was if the seat clamps/risers had the round rubber inserts in them?
Has anyone ordered these and know? Also I'm guessing that these round pieces of rubber were used to eliminate vibration between the seat and where the seat rests. Is this correct?
I see there is a small pin that runs thru the side of these round parts and it is not on the C/L of the round so when you rotate the rubber it varies the amount of rubber protruding from the slot in the wood where the rubber piece sits. Anyone that has seen one knows what I'm referring to. Lastly just because you rotate the rubber doesn't mean it will stay in the position you want it to, so how does that whole design work? I'm guessing you prefit the side rail and rotate the round pieces to where you have plenty of bite on the seats and then screw the sides to the boat (I hope the hole pattern is standard for that).
Yet another unknown that I really didn't anticipate dealing with. Oh well at least it will look better than it did.
Funny comparison. My wife has her fathers receipt from purchasing the boat in 1969, $450 for the boat! I'll be spending more than that just on wood to replace what is there.......How times have changed.
Thanks for any wood info you can provide. I'll call Specialty on Monday to confirm anyway, but it would be know if anyone else has received wood and the specifics on my questions.
Spike
Restoration was much harder than I anticipated..... |
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| Buckda |
Posted on 11/09/14 - 9:21 AM
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Hole patterns won't be standard for anything. Your best bet is to patch the holes now while you have the wood out and you will re-drill through the new components when they arrive from Specialty Marine.
The rubber discs were indeed used to dampen vibration noise and to hold the seat in place. Honestly, it is easier to just identify the thickness and get some rubber matting and wedge it in and trim it flush. The discs were a pain (my opinion). I don't know (but dont' think so) if Specialty Marine includes the discs in their kit.
Some of the locker covers were solid mahogany, others were plywood as OEM. just depended on the model year, but I agree, solid is better than plywood even if it's not "100% original".
Good luck, sounds like it will be in great shape for next season when you're done with her..
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| CaptSpike |
Posted on 11/10/14 - 12:35 PM
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Ah, a wealth of information! I talked to specialty and they do not have the disc's in their wood. I plan on doing what you suggest and use some rubber matting instead. Good to know the hatch being plywood was original.
All new wood on it's way. I can't wait to land some flounder and Stripers next spring. It's been a long road but I'm finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel!
Spike
Restoration was much harder than I anticipated..... |
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| blacksmithdog |
Posted on 11/12/14 - 2:51 AM
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I used a piece of rubber as Buckda did.
One thing you might consider is moving the seating a little further forward so you're not so stern heavy. Maybe play with the wood placement before you attach it. There's been lots of discussion on that here.
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| Binkie |
Posted on 11/13/14 - 1:30 PM
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Moving the console and the rear thwart forward 6 inches and mounting the rear thwart on TOP of the side pieces instead of underneath so you have more comfortable seating, and moving the battery underneath the rear thwart really gives the 13 ft. Whaler a new dimension. Its more comfortable to drive, and the ride is alot smoother and porpoising is eliminated.
Rich |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 11/13/14 - 1:46 PM
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Spike's profile says he has a Standard model without the console and remote steering.
He may not want to move the seat forward unless he can still reach the motor handle.
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| cas1947 |
Posted on 11/14/14 - 10:12 AM
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I had a 1978 13' Whaler in 1980 and the bow hatch cover was mahogany plywood. I guess Whaler used plywood to eliminate/reduce warping since the piece was so thin 1/2" if I recall correctly.
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| CaptSpike |
Posted on 11/17/14 - 3:30 PM
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Wood arrived today all I can say is WOW!
Joe is right I need to be careful about moving the seat forward due to the tiller handle. The motor isn't on the boat and I don't plan on putting it on until spring so I'm thinking of not installing the wood until then. This way the wood stays inside toasty warm all winter, lol.
I could always get an extension handle but if I remember correctly the boat ran fine as it was before. At least on the lake it was at last.
If anyone has the standard model and can give me there dimensions from the back of the seat to the front of the splash well and the performance they have that might be helpful. I know motor size has a lot to due with it too but I have a 25 hp Honda which isn't exactly noted for it's light weightedness, lol. Not sure if that is a word but you'll get the point.
Thanks again for all the help here,
Spike
Restoration was much harder than I anticipated..... |
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 11/17/14 - 6:55 PM
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I had fun looking at all your efforts with this refit Spike.
Gel coat is the way to go but you will understand that to wet sand will take time and elbow grease..
From your page photos;
You can take up from where you left off and in time go to a four and then 800 grit wet sand.
And so on until you are pleased with the eye and hand feel test.
Polishing with the DA sander will be next and then wax to seal the deal.
You will have a lot of satisfaction with surfacing your wood when the time comes.
Looking very good
Keep up the good work.
Dont lie
Dont Cheat
And dont give up.. |
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| blacksmithdog |
Posted on 11/18/14 - 2:49 AM
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CaptSpike:
If you look in my profile, the first boat you'll see there is a 13 foot standard. When I bought the boat, the seats were probably in the position they were in originally. They were too far back for me. What I did was take out all the screws and fill the holes. Then I just set the rear seat in and sat on it with the tiller in my hand and adjusted the seat forward to where I liked it. Don't worry about where it was originally. Put it where you feel comfortable.
Also, from a weight standpoint, use a "longish" fuel hose, and put the tank between the two seats as opposed to behind the rear seat.
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| CaptSpike |
Posted on 11/18/14 - 3:56 PM
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blacksmithdog wrote:
CaptSpike:
If you look in my profile, the first boat you'll see there is a 13 foot standard. When I bought the boat, the seats were probably in the position they were in originally. They were too far back for me. What I did was take out all the screws and fill the holes. Then I just set the rear seat in and sat on it with the tiller in my hand and adjusted the seat forward to where I liked it. Don't worry about where it was originally. Put it where you feel comfortable.
Also, from a weight standpoint, use a "longish" fuel hose, and put the tank between the two seats as opposed to behind the rear seat.
That is going to be my plan this spring. Get the motor in place and sit in it to find the best position. We used to run the tank between the seats and the battery as well. Gonna cover it and move it to the back yard Saturday. My truck doesn't like sitting out in the cold and I hate waiting for my windows to clear so I can drive.
I agree Gel coat would have been the way to go but all things considered I know I have a decent coat(s) of gel coat over my repairs so the hull is solid and water tight. As I said if I had it to do all over I would have stuck to the gel coat (especially with the issues I had with the paint. If you only knew how many hrs I had into sanding this already lol. Waaay to many to count.
Looking forward to getting it wet.
Spike
Restoration was much harder than I anticipated..... |
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