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Cooler Question
Turpin	#1  Posted on 09/10/14 - 12:02 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	I just noticed that all the coolers I have owned were well insulated on sides and bottom but the top remains to be fairly hollow. I recently installed an igloo marine cooler and noticed that the top was extremely cold on the outside and I have to say I was somewhat disappointed at how thin the covering on this cooler seemed to be, they just aren't up to the old standards. So I ask this, Is there any reason why you can't use a soft expanding foam in the lid for extra insulation? I in no way question theory but I will always question industry cutting corners to save a buck. So is there a reason the top is not insulated? I have taken one of my older hollow top coolers and filled it with a soft expansion foam just for a torture test to see if this is an industry corner cutting method, has anyone else tried this? I guessing the first thought is, will the top simply just 'balloon' up but I'm guessing with it still being vented or not being cometely sealed, it will maintain shape. We'll see! Edited by Turpin on 09/10/14 - 12:16 AM 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
Phil T	#2  Posted on 09/10/14 - 5:02 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	While not a expert in thermodynamics, I would proffer one thought. Since cold air sinks, there is less need to insulate the lid. I would think it is a cost cutting move. If there is a good seal and insulation in the sidewalls and bottom, it should be good. If you want a hard core cooler, consider the Yetti brand. Pricey. "In style" in some parts.
Reel Easy	#3  Posted on 09/10/14 - 7:49 AM
Member Posts: 196 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/17/14	Yetis are great but you can buy a lot of ice for the amount of premium you pay for one.
tmann45	#4  Posted on 09/10/14 - 8:49 AM
Member Posts: 196 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/18/07	Phil T wrote:Since cold air sinks, there is less need to insulate the lid. I would think it is a cost cutting move. While I agree with your theory, I don't agree with your conclusion. Phil T wrote:If there is a good seal and insulation in the sidewalls and bottom, it should be good. As noted by Turpin. Turpin wrote:I recently installed an igloo marine cooler and noticed that the top was extremely cold on the outside ... Please keep us informed your results, procedures and pictures would be nice. Turpin wrote:I have taken one of my older hollow top coolers and filled it with a soft expansion foam just for a torture test to see if this is an industry corner cutting method, has anyone else tried this? I guessing the first thought is, will the top simply just 'balloon' up but I'm guessing with it still being vented or not being cometely sealed, it will maintain shape. We'll see!
DennisVollrath	#5  Posted on 09/10/14 - 11:14 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 298 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/29/10	Perhaps you could add a seat cushion to the top, ala Montauk or Outrage style. This would add both insulation and extra seating comfort. Dennis 1985 Outrage 18 with Suzuki DF140A
Silentpardner	#6  Posted on 09/10/14 - 11:21 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 593 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/12/11	So is there a reason the top is not insulated? Yes, I think there is a reason. I do not know for sure, I do not design coolers, but I would venture to guess that the people that do design coolers to compete with other manufacturers test their designs very thoroughly before they release them on the market to insure they actually work to hold ice to standards they are required to meet by their employers. I think you could very well find with your test that the cooler does not hold ice for as long, or that it holds ice exactly the same amount of time, as your foam-filled top. I would venture that the air space inside the lid of the cooler could act as an intermediate temperature barrier that reduces the speed of change in temperature inside the cooler when the sun beats down on the top of the cooler during normal use. Just a guess :)
Turpin	#7  Posted on 09/10/14 - 6:41 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	I wished I had thought this earlier in the season as it is getting colder now. Though I don't know that insulation in the top will make a significant difference, I can't help but think it will help. I would think anything you can do to aid in keeping the outside heat from transferring to the inside even being the top, can only help the cooler. 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
Sjoconnor	#8  Posted on 09/10/14 - 6:49 PM
Member Posts: 85 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/15/11	My OEM 1989 igloo coolers are still in service today. I've added a few new parts over the year but.... Maybe my technique is different, but I tend to drink what's in the cooler before it gets warm! 1989 20' Outrage, 2013 Mercury 150hp Four Stroke
Turpin	#9  Posted on 09/10/14 - 8:12 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	That's my point exactly, your 1989 igloo cooler may have or use the same hardware as the latest coolers "but" the material that makes up the liner, outer shell and lid are much thinner than the older coolers i.e. Corner cutting to save money thus producing a cheaper (in quality) product. So this launched my question about the lid. The industry now provides these high end coolers at obscene prices when 30 years ago though it would probably be considered a nice cooler, it's ability to keep ice and quality of construction was more or less the factory standard then and we get sub standard coolers now. 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
Turpin	#10  Posted on 09/26/14 - 11:12 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	http://s355.photobucket.com/user/stie...oler%20mod So this is how it turned out and what I did to insulate the lid of the cooler. Judgement is is still in limbo as to how it will perform, I'm not not overly satisfied with this cooler's performance out of the box as it falls way short of the older cooler it replaced which was a fairly standard Picnic style cooler. 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
hc803	#11  Posted on 10/02/14 - 7:56 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 100 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/04/05	I spoke with an Igloo rep a few years back when I was looking at a replacement cooler for my 17 Montauk. Listening between the lines, coolers have evolved from a lifetime product (the old metal-sided, clumsy to carry but worked great) to a throwaway product (what you see on the shelves at Walmart). Replacement parts are provided for those of us that actually care for their coolers or opt for the higher grade products (Marine series being the low end, Yeti/Orca/Engel being the higher). Igloo realizes your basic cooler customer is going to treat it terribly and at some point put it on the curb. Then someone like me picks it up, spends $10 to fix the hinges, a little pressure washing, bleach, and paint and I make it last 10+ years. You just decide your price point and go with it, because a cooler ONLY works well if you keep the lid closed. This goes across the board. A cheaper cooler will have thinner walls and lids, less insulation, but will work fine to keep your drinks cold for a day on the water. You just won't keep the ice very long. If I was having a kidney or liver shipped cross-country, I would pay for the Yeti/Orca/Engel because the lid will stay closed and they are manufactured to keep ice/cold longer, but ONLY if the lid stays closed.
Whalerbob	#12  Posted on 10/03/14 - 4:18 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 311 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/07/06	If you want your ice to last longer try cutting a piece or two of that silver / bubble duct insulation to fit inside your cooler to cover your ice, it really helps.