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Installing a drain tube
gchuba	#1  Posted on 06/15/14 - 6:45 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	I am installing a drain tube between my splash well and my fish locker in a 1979 22 ft Revenge. Several questions after I looked up the installation procedure in the web site. It is about 10" long. What size hole is drilled for the tubing . It looks like my 1 1/16" hole saw bit might be too loose and my 1" bit too tight. Neither wall is at a 90 degree angle. One at about 115 degrees and the other at 100 degrees. How forgiving is the flaring tool for a good seal. I know I can cheat one side to the correct angle but the harsher of the two angles is inside the splash well so that side cannot be prefabricated and I would have to rely on the tool. No room to "hammer" the flare. If the flaring tool cannot handle odd angles, what are the alternative methods for drain tube installation. Removing the tube from the transom showed promise for the rest of the tubes. A patina stain maybe a 3/8" down on one end and less on the other side. The rubber was tired but it appeared to be intact. No observable water intrusion and the wood looked healthy. Why I am doing the immediate work should I buy enough tubing and gaskets for the entire boat or leave well enough alone. Thanks Garris
kamie	#2  Posted on 06/16/14 - 4:15 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	If you don't know when the tubes were last replaced the cost of replacing them all is cheap insurance
donp	#3  Posted on 06/16/14 - 8:27 AM
Member Posts: 222 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/12/08	It’s my understanding the key to accommodating the angles is to have your flaring tool modified to match the angle. As I stated in my reply to your post regarding flaring tools. If an air hammer can’t be used, you will more than likely need to purchase some all thread to accommodate a 10” tube since the provided bolt is nowhere long enough. Best of luck.
bcoastal	#4  Posted on 06/16/14 - 11:10 AM
Member Posts: 291 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/15/12	First grind down the flaring tool so its short and can be angled. The air hammer you use on one side will also curl the opposite end if someone has the flaring tool held up against it really tight. I would do that to start the curl on the inside then slowly finish it out with a hammer or the tightening the bolt method. You can also cut an angled wedge to place behind the flaring tool to get the desired angle with the bolt method. Practice on a few pieces. I did the longer tubes first so when I screwed them up I could use them on the shorter ones. I also saw much better results using the air hammer than the bolt method.
gchuba	#5  Posted on 06/16/14 - 1:36 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Thanks fellows for the replies. I also talked to Sue at Twin Cities Marine. The person everyone raves about and I am on that band wagon. Along with your suggestions I believe I have a handle on the situation. I am going to pilot drill some practice pieces with my hole saw bits. According to Sue. if too tight where you have to jam in the tube, is not good. Also, to get the non 90 degree bevel, if you use an undersized threaded rod, it leaves the flaring head a little sloppy, and will match up to the angle. That plus the angled wedge bcoastal mentioned should do the trick. Plan on replacing all the pieces in the long run and I will be getting different diameter threaded rod. Some questions. bcoastal, where do you do the grinding. I do not want to compromise the face of the bevel. Possibly on the bolt to bend in a turn? I will be doing an upper tube with easier access first.Will tackle the lower (hard to get at) second. I also used a 4" angle grinder with a thin cutting blade to remove the tube. With the thinner blade I could see what I was doing and gradually ground down the lip of the tube holding the grommet/gasket without touching the gel coat. Was able to push the tube out the opposite side without collapsing it. Just tapped out the tube with an old bolt on the cut edge of the tube. Thanks all. Garris
bcoastal	#6  Posted on 06/16/14 - 5:54 PM
Member Posts: 291 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/15/12	Here is a link to the modified flaring tool. Making it even shorter would make it a little easier to angle. http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/g...b14bc3.jpg To get the angle I use a miter saw. Stick a ruler through the hole and measure the angle with a protractor. That way everything is exact and no freehand stuff.
gchuba	#7  Posted on 06/16/14 - 8:15 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	bcoastal, thanks again for the tips and link. Garris
gchuba	#8  Posted on 07/06/14 - 6:16 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Drilled my pilot/pipe hole through the fish locker to the splash well. The hole was 10" deep. I measured down from the wall separating the two chambers and both sides had a bevel. My only access was from the fish locker side. Used a 1 1/16" hole saw bit with an extension. Kept the holes about 2" above bottom matching the bevel. Several things of interest for me. The thickness of the walls of the gel coat surprised me. Only about 1/8" thick. I expected them to be thicker. Found my foam bone dry. To keep the hole in line with my measurements I used an extended length of the drain tubing. I used the hole saw bit to do the initial drilling on the fish locker side and went in 2 to 3 inches. I them used a bevel square up against the wall and let it rest on the drain tubing. I then twisted and muscled the tubing through the foam. One hand kept the bevel intact and the other worked the pipe into the foam an inch or two at a time. Worked beautifully. The cut into foam was an intact pilot hole for drilling through to the other side. The exit hole on the splash well side worried me. Trying to drill blindly for a 10" long hole with my head upside down for a miter would have been spooky but the hand work cutting into the foam did the trick. Thanks to all the advice for the drain tube installation I am feeling confident for a watertight tube. The 1 1/16" hole saw kept the walls structurally intact for the o rings. Will be putting in some additional sealant around the pipe before the rings go on. Thanks again all for the information. Garris