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Knowing this forum is a great source of help that I now need greatly on the restoration and improvement of the subject classic Whaler I've been working for way too long. I need to get it done before Lake Texoma goes dry!
Referring the the pictures here (please let me know if this link does not work):
I trying to install the 'quick connect' Teleflex replacement cable with the adapter. As you can see in the picture showing the connection to the Big-T, the alignment of the cable opening is such that I cannot get the cable end sleeve to engage. The new cable sleeve is 3 in. log as compared to the old at 2-1/8 in. long which seems to hamper any downward bending possibility of the cable.
The other problem is the spent cable tube comes detached from its threaded base (this first happened when I used the original tube last weekend and now with a new replacement tube I received this week).
It looks like I need to make the console side opening considerably larger to allow a direct line for the cable through the opening to the fitting. I've searched the forum and can't find anything specifically citing this issue. Is there a way to make it work without modifying the console? Am I routing the spent cable tube correctly? I believe it is in a position that makes for the least severe bend. Has anyone found a good way to reinforce the tube with its threaded part?
A third problem is removing the old cable at the motor in the picture of the right side of the motor (1978 Evinrude 70 hp) steering tube, the end of the steering cable motor control arm will not budge in either direction. Shouldn't it easily move in either direction and come out through the motor steering tube? Another picture shows the other dies of the steering cable at the motor. Is it necessary to remove and lift the motor to remove the steering cable (one it slides through the steering tube)?
I sure hope this is clear and sure would appreciate any suggestions before I go any more crazy than I now am.
for my boat a 1966 custom 16' I had to move the motor, not lift it, to install the steering cable thru the tilt tube. I loosened up all the bolts, and tightened the port bolt after which then forced the motor to move fwd and lean port, which gave me the clearance between the transom which was hitting th ebig nut at the end of the cable, I only needed about 1/8 of an inch, but I could have achieved more using this method,
you could also, go about it the same way remove all but one bolt, tilt the motor with a buddy, and then install the cable, then instal the other 3 bolts.
I did this with a 1999 50 hp Johnson 2 stroke.
Hope this helps, sorry I don't have a striper, can't help with any other info.
Thanks for the information -- that's a good idea. I went out and purchased a chain hoist and plan to secure it to a beam in the roof of the metal building I have the boat in, so I should be able to lift the motor off. My biggest concern is how the end of the moving control rod on the old cable can be seized that badly in the motor tube connection -- it doesn't make sense.
Anyone have any suggestions on my other questions?
I have a 1979 Whaler Classic Sport 15 and just replaced the steering cable a couple of weeks ago using the same quick disconnect cable you described. I also have a 70hp Johnson. The simplest part for me was removing and installing the cable through the tilt tube. You definitely do not need a chain hoist because this is not difficult and there is no reason to remove the outboard.
Remove three of the four outboard mounting bolts leaving the top port side bolt slightly loosened. (On my motor the top bolts went through the transom but the bottom bolts were blind and screwed directly into the motor backet.) The motor will easily tilt sideways (port-to-starboard) on the transom and, assuming the ram isn't seized inside the tilt tube, the old cable can be removed. You also want to make sure that fourth bolt is not too tight otherwise the bracket might scratch the transom's gelcoat when you tilt the motor.
Great. The 1979 sport 15 still has the wooden console -- am I correct? In any case, I take it you didn't have any issue with angular alignment of the steering wheel end going into the adapter? I had a 1976 super port (that i should have kept) where I worked with the steering and I think the cabling opening on the console is large -- right?
Graham
(please follow guideline #1 on the front page and use the full 4 digit year)
Graham, sorry I am slow to reply. I haven't checked the forum for a few days.
The hardest part of my cable installation was making that bend from the gunnel to underneath the wooden console. I had to remove the front panel to route the cable and make the connections. I did not have trouble getting the cable to feed correctly into the helm and the QC connector was simple once I read the directions. I was concerned about the bend of the cable at the gunnel and then angling down underneath the small wooden console. It would have been easier if my console was a little taller. Rebuilding the console will likely be my first big modification.
Following up on this, my wonderful wife let me solve this problem by replacing the 1978 Evinrude with a new 2014 Yamaha 50 4-cycle engine this spring. Due to very heavy spring rains and consequent flooding, we didn't get much use of the boat until recently when the COE ramps and marinas reopened on Lake Texoma.
As a follow up to the question on aligning the steering with the helm, the Yamaha dealer did a good job of it and also installed a Hi-Jacker manual lift plate since the old stern mounting holes didn't line up. I've always want a jack plate -- it can be a flats boat now.
Yesterday, the spent cable tube fell off during steering cable movement. The mounting nut stayed in place, but the tube pulled out of the plastic nut. the tube is held in the nut by a flare in the tubing, but not very well -- it doesn't take much force to pull the tubing out of the nut. The problem is made worse by the sharp bend the spent cable tube takes due the confines of the console.
Anyone else have this problem? A replacement tube costs only $7, but I'm wary of having the same issue. I thought about using an adhesive sealant to glue the nut to the tube, but realized to put the tube back on, it needs to rotate around the tube to allow re-threading it back to the BigT helm. Maybe make the flare larger using heat and a conical piece of metal? It looks to me like this may be a manufacturing problem at Teleflex, I'd think a good engineer would want the flare of the tubing to be captured by the nut an secured to the cable outlet on the helm.
