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freeing up frozen plastic live well valves
cneiditz
#1 Print Post
Posted on 05/29/14 - 7:34 PM
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Have a 2006 Boston Whaler Outrage 240. Bought it from a couple that never fished. Now 8 years later, I am faced with a set of frozen valves stuck in the off position. I feel if I force the valve it will snap. The pumps work well as I can hear them when I turn on the switch. I am thinking of removing the 800gph pump above the valve, and spraying something in to free it up. Any Ideas as to what I should use? Silicone spray, petroleum product like WD 40 or even penetrating oil. Should I just replace the valves believing they cannot be unstuck? If so should it be brass or the oem plastic valve.

 
Phil T
#2 Print Post
Posted on 05/30/14 - 6:16 AM
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Are these the thru valves shown in the diagram below as #1?

http://www.bostonwhaler.com/boat_grap...002739.pdf

If so, I would replace with brass. The higher quality, the better.

There are many detailed plans on www.bostonwhaler.com. Go to
http://www.bostonwhaler.com/page.aspx.../page.aspx and enter year and model


Edited by Phil T on 05/30/14 - 6:25 AM
 
butchdavis
#3 Print Post
Posted on 05/30/14 - 6:54 AM
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I believe the silicon spray is worth a try. I would spray the silicon from above and below without removing the pump. If, after a few days of sitting, the valve remains stuck repeat after removing the pump or hose as required to get the silicon onto the valve ball.

If the spray fails to make the valve operable and your final option is to replace the valve you might as well make a final attempt to force the valve to operate. If the handle or stem fail it won't cost you anything but if it works you willhave saved some cash and effort.


Butch
 
gchuba
#4 Print Post
Posted on 05/30/14 - 7:16 AM
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Some plastic ball valves have a keeper screw on the top of the handle. If you can remove the handle and decide to force the valve, you can put a vice grip on the on the stem (either on the oblong flat portion or below the ridges). I found that the plastic handle casing is usually the weak link when forcing. I would go brass.

Garris

 
tmann45
#5 Print Post
Posted on 05/30/14 - 8:24 AM
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Do not use brass valves if you use your boat in saltwater, it will dezinctify and turn into a brittle/crumbling sponge. Only use bronze (if you want metal) for any valves and fittings exposed to seawater.

Couple of links to get you started:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selectiv...e_leaching

http://corrosion-doctors.org/Forms-se...dezinc.htm

I prefer the composite (Marelon) that Boston Whaler used/uses, no corrosion at all.

As far as getting them to operate, I would try vinegar. Since the composite valves have no metal to corrode the logical problem is scale from the water evaporating, which an acid such as vinegar would help disolve.


Edited by tmann45 on 05/30/14 - 8:29 AM
 
butchdavis
#6 Print Post
Posted on 05/31/14 - 6:53 AM
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tmann,

Excellent point!!


Butch
 
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