Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
I replaced the electronics that were on the boat when I bought it back in 2005. The Standard Horizon CP175 and an old Garmin depth finder were still operational, but they were very outdated.
The plotter was located in the overhead electronics box of the t-top and the depth finder was located on the console. My original plan was to not make a big production out of the R&R project. Once I had temporarily set the new electronics in the original locations, I remembered how I really did not like looking up at the plotter, then down at the depth finder.
One thing let to another and I ended up building a new console from teak that I had salvaged from one of the remodel projects I had overseen several years ago. The material was 1/2" x 4" ship lap material.
I was going to draw up the design, because I like to draw, but quickly realized that it would be a pretty difficult assembly to draw. I switched to a cardboard mock up. The basic premise of the design was to remove the plexiglass windscreen and utilize the identical mounting method that secured the windscreen to the console.
After 3 renditions of the same mock up, I settled on a design and began the make up of the materials. I ripped the under and over lap of the ship lap material off. I had to do a little planing of the edges to make sure the edge joints fit to each other tightly. I then used small biscuits and and a biscuit jointer to glue the pieces together.
Once the assembly's panels were glued up, then I cut them out to match the dimensions of the mock up. Nearly all the joints are rabbet or dado joints.
My crappy table saw was not much help with this. I had to make up some teak putty with epoxy to help clean up some of the not so perfect joints. The only fasteners in the piece are in the aft facing curb at the top of the piece. The assembly seems to be very rigid. The glue used was Titebond III, Waterproof glue.
It had been a while since I had worked on a personal project like this. I enjoyed it very much. I hoped that the design would not be viewed as a detractor to the aesthetics of the console and boat in general. I think I succeeded in that regard.
I also replaced the Starboard console doors that were on the boat when I bought it, with teak OEM doors. The port door utilized was a door that I had acquired back in 2005. It was an original Super Console door. The aft door was just acquired this past winter. I had to reassemble it after receiving it, and think it turned out pretty nicely.
Doug V wrote:
It had been a while since I had worked on a personal project like this. I enjoyed it very much. I hoped that the design would not be viewed as a detractor to the aesthetics of the console and boat in general. I think I succeeded in that regard.
Mission accomplished, looks great! What finish did you use on the teak, oil?
Always thought the combination of the teak and glass looks great on these hulls.
Looks great. I just love "...just using some teak salvaged from...". You created something beautiful designed around with something saved. Great job.
Garris
I used Daly's Seafin teak oil, as recommended by Tom Clark. I highly second his recommendation.
Garris,
Thanks for the kind words. I just could not make myself throw that teak away. I still have a pretty good stash of material. It should keep me supplied for quite a while.
