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Fitting deck, fuel tank cover back in (PICS)
picflight
#1 Print Post
Posted on 04/22/14 - 8:02 AM
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1998 Outrage 17

I had some repair done to one corner of my boat deck.

After the repair, it does not want to fit flat. I spent 7 hours taking it off grinding and fitting it but there is still some adjustment needed.

What are the tricks, tips to have it sit flat?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7159/1...2794_b.jpg


Deck upside down
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5093/1...d481_b.jpg
Foots I installed after the repair was done to have it sit on the ledge
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7108/1...cf42_b.jpg
This is where it has to fit
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7350/1...a2e6_b.jpg

 
gchuba
#2 Print Post
Posted on 04/22/14 - 9:29 AM
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How/where was the weight bearing before you had the repair done? What are the reasons for the "foots" (shims?)? I had a portion of my deck off for my 1979 22ft Revenge and the entire outer area of the deck was bearing on the boats hull with no need for "foots" (shims). The deck was screwed down (screws 8" o/c plus minus) with some continuous sealant (maybe 4200) between the deck and hull with some clear sealant in the deck seams. I believe that should be a tight fit without shimming.

I looked at your photos again and I believe the deck should be making continuous contact on the ledge you have marked with the green marker.

gchuba


Edited by gchuba on 04/22/14 - 9:38 AM
 
picflight
#3 Print Post
Posted on 04/22/14 - 10:02 AM
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gchuba wrote:
How/where was the weight bearing before you had the repair done? What are the reasons for the "foots" (shims?)? I had a portion of my deck off for my 1979 22ft Revenge and the entire outer area of the deck was bearing on the boats hull with no need for "foots" (shims). The deck was screwed down (screws 8" o/c plus minus) with some continuous sealant (maybe 4200) between the deck and hull with some clear sealant in the deck seams. I believe that should be a tight fit without shimming.

I looked at your photos again and I believe the deck should be making continuous contact on the ledge you have marked with the green marker.

gchuba



I am guessing the weight before the repair must have been bearing all around the edge. I did not check that before I pulled it out but it was sitting solidly flat.

The reasons for the foot, shim was to give it some area to ride on rather than the edge. This was repair area where the material was not filled up to the edge, leaving the edge to be higher but original height. The foots are 2" wide, just enough to cover the ledge, the center is suspended anyway.

This deck is almost similar to what you described, it is also has 23 screws all around and marine sealant all around.

The ledge where the deck sits is 2" wide, I want it to sit making contact all over the 2" ledge for it to be solid.

 
gchuba
#4 Print Post
Posted on 04/22/14 - 10:15 AM
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I think I get what you are doing. You repaired the decking but you do not want the repair to be bearing. So you want the weight on the shims with the deck cantilevered out over the ledge where it originally was screwed down?
gchuba

 
picflight
#5 Print Post
Posted on 04/22/14 - 2:52 PM
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Yes, that is correct gchuba.

 
gchuba
#6 Print Post
Posted on 04/22/14 - 3:54 PM
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Who repaired the deck? The piece should be weight bearing. The deck when re-installed should be sealed in place. If the repair is not strong enough to bear weight you will probably crack it in half if you have to remove it again. I have seen very detailed postings with pictures showing the correct deck repair in this website. A bit of work but the top surface remained intact. From what I gather finding a replacement deck is a stroke of luck.

I would recommend to have the deck repaired structurally to original factory specs. If not. Rip some pieces of starboard or teak and make up the space on the edge, seal it and screw it down, and pray some one does not crack the surface by walking on it.
gchuba

 
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