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1987 Montauk 17 Bow Latch?
DanBelford
#1 Print Post
Posted on 02/16/14 - 5:36 AM
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Hi everyone,

I have been restoring my Montauk over the past few years and have not yet finished my bow locker cover because I cant find a good latch to keep the thing from opening over the waves and getting destroyed. What is the best latch to use? I was thinking maybe a budgie cord system but want it to look good. Your input is greatly appreciated as I cant seem to find anything good.

 
Tom W Clark
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Posted on 02/16/14 - 8:17 AM
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I have owned several Montauks now and I always install a Lockable Hold Down on the bow locker cover, specifically an Perko # 1108

http://www.perko.com/catalog/category...oduct/375/

30 years ago this piece of hardware was not so expensive but it is perfect for this application. There are many polished stainless steel knock-offs on the market that cost less and which would work just as well, but I still like the Perko because of its high quality and because Whaler used Perko of one of they primary OEMs from the very beginning.

A hook and bungee loop will work fine too but is a little more work to use and looks far less elegant.

Some people use patches of adhesive backed Velcro but these will need replacing form time to time may not always hold the locker shut.

 
Finnegan
#3 Print Post
Posted on 02/16/14 - 1:55 PM
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For years Whaler used a very short bungee cord as locker cover hold-downs, concealed inside the locker so no external hardware was needed. An eye loop was installed on the inside front wall of the locker, and on the underside of the cover. The short bungee was very heavy duty, at least 3/8" cord, with the short spring type end hooks. The idea is that right before you drop cover closed, you reach in, stretch out the cord, and hook it to the underside eye loop.

If rigged properly, this system works, but is often a pain to use, and takes a little effort to open and unhook the cord. Because the cord is always under a lot of stretch, it needs annual replacement.

The big advantage is that it is concealed, with no external hardware to get in the way of your boating, and that it only has to be used for rough weather boating conditions. For most situations, you can leave it unhooked, with the bungee just hanging on the interior eye in the locker.

 
DanBelford
#4 Print Post
Posted on 02/17/14 - 1:04 PM
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That Perko part is perfect I will hunt one of hose down. I started to repair some of the fiberglass cracks and am going to re gel coat the front hatch. I noticed the plastic thing in the front hatch that looks like it seals the hulls together is deteriorated and is leaking, not good. What and how can I fix this? Can I just get a big round piece of laminated fiberglass and fiberglass over the seal, can I just order a new seal from Whaler. Any ideas of how people fix this problem?

 
Joe Kriz
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Posted on 02/17/14 - 1:24 PM
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Where did this fiberglass bow locker cover come from?
1987 should have a Teak Bow Locker Cover.

I noticed the plastic thing in the front hatch that looks like it seals the hulls together is deteriorated and is leaking, not good. What and how can I fix this?

No idea what you are talking about.
Any photos?

 
DanBelford
#6 Print Post
Posted on 02/17/14 - 6:52 PM
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Hi Joe,

I tried to get pics but couldn't get the Photo bucket website to work. My bot does have a teak lbow locker cover that is in great shape. It the locker itself, right beside where the drain plug goes there is a piece of plastic that looks like it was put there when the hulls were joined at the factory. Its softer than the fiberglass and is cracking and letting water in Im sure. Should I just fiberglass over it or remove it and then fiberglass over it? Its probably like 8" diameter right on the bottom of the bow locker. Its been there since day one but I guess over the years of dropping the anchor on it has made it fail. Do you know what I mean? I wish I could get you a pic

 
Tom W Clark
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Posted on 02/18/14 - 8:06 AM
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Pretty sure Dan is talking about the sprue hole. In 1987 Whaler just used clear gel coat to seal over the opening. I have never seen one deteriorate like Dan describes.

Yes, 'glass it over if you can.

 
alan heckmamleper
#8 Print Post
Posted on 02/18/14 - 8:21 AM
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Adhesive velcro works great I have used it for years. It's out of site you will never know it's there, does need replaced once in a while. My last ones have been on for 2 years. A couple of bucks at Wal-Mart.

 
Phil T
#9 Print Post
Posted on 02/18/14 - 9:17 AM
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I used this on my Outrage 17 cover. Worked well except in the big waves.

http://greatlakesskipper.com/tracker-...stud-catch

Replaced it with a short bungie cord pre-stretched.

 
DanBelford
#10 Print Post
Posted on 02/18/14 - 5:35 PM
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Hi Tom,

You my friend are on it. I still cant get pics but its a hole that just has a plastic thing glued over it. Its about 8" diameter. I want to get a fiberglass disk of some sort and glass it shut. I don't think I will every need the hole will I?

How should I attached the new latch to the hull? Its fairly thin I don't think there is enough meet for just a screw

 
Tom W Clark
#11 Print Post
Posted on 02/18/14 - 6:23 PM
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Check the Wood Locating Diagram. The bow locker bulkhead has 1/2" plywood on both side so it is easy to attach this latch. The main part screws to the edge of the locker cover, the hook screws to the bulkhead.

 
Tom W Clark
#12 Print Post
Posted on 02/18/14 - 6:45 PM
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If you are shopping for a Perko # 1108 latch and don't want to spend the $82 that it might cost at say, Fisheries Supply...

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/perko-...1108dp0chr

...then shop it down in eBay. I just picked one up for $20, delivered.

 
Ron Mazcko
#13 Print Post
Posted on 02/19/14 - 5:15 AM
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They have Stainless Steel Lockable Hold Down Clamps at the Marine Part Depot Web Site. Their prices are very reasonable. Here is their web site:

http://www.marinepartdepot.com/dring....dring.html


Ronald Mazcko
 
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