1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Any articles/ideas for rub rail peplacement
gchuba	#1  Posted on 01/26/14 - 11:34 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	I am having some gel coat work done on my 1979 22 foot Whaler Revenge. There was damage done by the previous owner by a bow railing deck mount and yours truly hit a concrete piling when his 235hp Johnson stalled when docking. A pretty good dink behind the bows rub rail. What is the easiest way to remove? Is worth it for me to try to save the rubber when removing. Factory original replacement or newer design? I want the most durable material and do not mind not having the white plastic channel that the rail currently sits in. Thanks. Garris
Finnegan	#2  Posted on 01/26/14 - 12:43 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	The 1979 Outrage 20 and 22 hulls came with a factory installed Barbour red rubrail insert, and they looked beautiful with that detail. I'm not sure what color came with the Revenge models, but I think the red rubrail insert would look very nice on the Revenge also. If I owned any 22, it would have the red insert! All of the 1973-1978 19' boats had the red insert, which you can see here: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...9595725383 Contact Sue at Twin Cities for this special order product.
Phil T	#3  Posted on 01/26/14 - 1:30 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Garris - Replacing rubrail is a frequently asked question. For those kind, using the search feature will often produce detailed answers and opinions without having to wait. The search feature is the second to last item under "MAIN" on the navigation bar. Using the "must contain....." selection will give you the most accurate results.
gchuba	#4  Posted on 01/26/14 - 1:40 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Finnegan, The red looks nice but my hull design is different. I have teak on the top of my gunnels and the rub rail has a plastic molding that encases the outside of the wood and hides the seam of teak to hull. The plastic has a groove that the rub rail slides into. The line continues around the whole boat. The boat in the picture is the generation before my hull. Thanks. Garris
Finnegan	#5  Posted on 01/26/14 - 2:23 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	Both the 1979 V-20 and V-22 Outrages came from the factory with the red rubrail insert. Here is the V-20. I have seen a photo of a V-22 (same hull as yours) with the original red, but can't seem to find it now. http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...r_id=16726
Tom W Clark	#6  Posted on 01/26/14 - 2:29 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	The Rubrail used on the Revenge 22 is the same as that used on the Outrage 22. Larry is correct that when the Outrage 22 was introduced, Whaler used the Red Rubrail Insert. They did not use it when they introduced the Revenge 22, though there is no reason (apart from difficulty procuring it) that one could not use the Red Rubrail insert on a Revenge 22. At any rate, and regardless of what color insert is used, the Rubrail is manufactured by Barbour Plastics and is still available. The easiest thing to do is order the entire kit from a Whaler dealer. You can also order the components from the manufacturer or another vendor. Hamilton Marine stocks a lot of Barbour Rubrails but you need to know exactly which profile you are after. The Receiver Track, the component that attaches to the hull and onto which the Rubrail Insert is inserted, should be the color "Moonstone" for a classic Whaler Whaler also offered a Commercial Duty Rubrail, also made by Barbour which is more robust and uses a Black Receiver Track.
gchuba	#7  Posted on 01/26/14 - 2:58 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Thanks Tom and Finnegan, I have the actual rubber off and found out that was where they ran wire for the navigation lights. A splice in the middle of the wire with auto repair solderless connectors. The port side light was forever giving me problems. The rubber is in good shape. I will see what is out there for replacement. If I decide get a whole kit, the old rubber is available for postage. Garris Finnegan, I would have to see the red on a boat in person. The picture is nice but a little "flashy" for my personality. Who knows, but it may make the rest of the boat look like it needs work. I like the weathered aluminum. Edited by gchuba on 01/26/14 - 3:07 PM
wannabe	#8  Posted on 01/26/14 - 4:06 PM
Member Posts: 287 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/03/09	Barbour Plastics will sell direct to the public, if they have it in stock. I called last winter. Drew 1988 Outrage 18 - 1988 Yamaha 130 hp
gchuba	#9  Posted on 01/26/14 - 4:26 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Thanks all, Come Monday I check with Barbour Plastics. I use Watco teak oil on my wood and the oil discolored the original "Moonstone" track (I was a little overzealous and sloppy) in a couple spots. I do not know if the track became porous with weathering and took the oil to aggressively. The black track with the commercial grade rub rail might allow me to hide some of my spills and let me do touch up at the marina. The sun just cooked the oil on teak tops of my gunwales. Thanks again. Garris
Tom W Clark	#10  Posted on 01/26/14 - 5:33 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	If the Rubrail Insert is in good condition, it will be much less expensive to just order some new receiver track. Masking tape solves the teak oil staining problem.
gchuba	#11  Posted on 01/26/14 - 5:59 PM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Tom, Thanks. I just got "sticker shock" looking up Barbour plastics. The shipping had me blink. I do believe a little bit of masking tape (or a splotch or two on the rigid base) is worth the savings. Garris
gchuba	#12  Posted on 01/27/14 - 6:45 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	It pays to not pay too much attention to web sites and call the company directly. The "Barbour Plastics" web page is 5 years old and their ordering minimums are different when you talk directly with the salesperson. Complete base and rubber to my door $320. I only would have saved $80 using old rubber. If anyone wants the piece I removed FREE plus shipping. Garris Edited by gchuba on 01/27/14 - 6:51 AM
gchuba	#13  Posted on 01/28/14 - 8:59 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	For what it is worth fellows. When I ordered the rub rail from Barbour Plastics (rigid base and rubber insert) I inquired about the availability of a black rigid base. The whaler number had one awkward length with too much waste. However, the salesperson cross referenced the item number and I got a continuous 50 foot black piece that was earmarked for a different boat manufacturer. No seam at the front of the bow and pre-drilled holes 6 inch on center. The 50 foot piece only leaves me a few inches to spare for my 1979 22 foot Revenge but it is enough to work with. gchuba
Tom W Clark	#14  Posted on 01/28/14 - 9:13 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	You will want to miter the Receiver track at the bow as well as at each stern corner. Save your existing Receiver Track to use as a guide for cutting the angles on the new receiver track.
gchuba	#15  Posted on 01/28/14 - 11:09 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Tom, Thanks for the tip. I was planning on saving the old pieces as templates, then free to anyone who wants them. I may not have spotted the kink in the bow miter. Garris
spuds	#16  Posted on 01/28/14 - 11:21 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 166 Comments: 5 Joined: 08/01/07	If you want the most durable rubrail, you should consider going to thr commercial rubrail which is a heavy rubber rail that actually affords your boat some protection. That's what I had installed on my Outrage 18. It is a thick all black rubber carrier with a very thin insert. Mine was installed by Orlando's Fiberglass and I'm sure Joe has some he could ship to you, but I think your local dealer may also have it. 1985 Outrage 18
gchuba	#17  Posted on 01/28/14 - 11:57 AM
Member Posts: 1675 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/31/13	Spuds, I looked into the heavier material but it would not accommodate electrical wire. The hollow space between the base and insert of the style I ordered (factory original) is where my navigation light wire was run. No access from my cabin that would look right. I also scored an electric anchor winch and see if there is room for the heavier gauged wire to my anchor locker. Thanks . Garris
jvz	#18  Posted on 01/29/14 - 8:14 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 215 Comments: 10 Joined: 03/16/07	If your replacing the rubrail - it's a good time to replace your Nav wires - solder and heat shrink tubing for any splicing /connections. Drill out rivets, fill the holes - sand flush & go with stainless screws,4200 A competent helper, clamps, heat gun,good miter saw (measure twice - cut once) & patience... do it right! The track is basically PVC - it is tightly coiled when they ship it so be careful handling & unravelling, it can hurt you.