Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
Hi. As a follow up on what were normal screws to attach rails, I was removing the bow rail and the screws holding on the gunnel mounted base were 2" machine screws, #10-24 thread, slotted, flat heads. Was this normal in 1974 or is there a threaded insert inside the bow in this position? Sternward were all #10 sheet metal.
The base of the bow rail stanchion is secured by a piece of aluminum plate that #10-24 machine screws thread into. It is these two screws that most commonly seize up and break off when trying to remove them.
The aluminum backing plate is called out and shown in the wood locating diagram for that hull.
Thanks, so all the standoffs have to have a 2 inch machine, oval would be best? Are there any other areas that have an alum backing, I have not run into any so far in this project. I looked at the wood placement stuff but could not make any sence of it.
No, only the base of the bow stanchion uses machine screws, and only because of that aluminum plate.
As you correctly observe, all other screws are sheet metal screws [ except the stand-offs that have long machine screws threaded into the backing plates on the outside of the hull. ]
I believe the exploded parts diagram for this hull, as well as the wood locating diagram, is in the downloads section for you to view.
Thanks for the info--If I had thought a minute I would have realized they went into the outside plates and not into some alum. in the hull. When I bought the boat the owner had picked up some extra outside backing plates. Probably should go ahead and bed the outside ones at this time also ?