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Best silicone / caulk for mounting transducer
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| hamil791 |
Posted on 06/17/07 - 8:38 PM
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I am in the process of installing a transducer on the transom of my Montauk 170. My question is what is the best silicone / caulk to use on the mounting screws? I am thinking 3M 4200? Any other suggestions?
Ian
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 06/17/07 - 9:03 PM
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4200 is good...
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| DelawareDan |
Posted on 06/17/07 - 9:06 PM
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I'll be adding a transducer soom myself, transom mount. Any suggestions for location? Is it best to have it outboard on the flatter part of the transom? Starboard or port make a difference? I would guess port would be better, in case one would add a kicker to starboard side.
Edited by DelawareDan on 06/17/07 - 9:08 PM |
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| moose |
Posted on 06/18/07 - 10:18 AM
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Ian,
I used 5200 to adhere a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum that I had predrilled and tapped to my transome. That way no holes to drill in the transom. It has held well so far.
Mike
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| MW |
Posted on 06/19/07 - 3:42 AM
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I mounted on the starboard side, I think "Port" is where it is supposed to be, I did what "Joe K." suggested, and used 5200 marine adhesive on a small 3x3" piece of "Sea Foam" plastic block, this way when you replace the transducer, you're NOT drilling holes into the "Whaler", just the 3x3" block.
mw
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| RGT |
Posted on 06/20/07 - 5:29 PM
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The electronics on my last two Whalers were installed by the dealers service department (part of the purchase agreements). Both transducers for the GPS/sonar units are mounted on the starboard side and 3M 4200 was used by the techs.
The idea of using a plate attached by 5200 does sound interesting though. 
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| brooks89 |
Posted on 06/20/07 - 8:16 PM
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I believe I read in an old BW manual they recommend mounting transducers on the port side. The idea being the transducer will act as a bit of trim tab to counteract the rotation/torque of the motor/prop. Perhaps back in the day transducers were bigger than today's. I installed mine port side and it works perfectly fine. Just make sure you mount flush with bottom in an area where the water will flow cleanly over it.
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| tek34 |
Posted on 07/20/07 - 1:34 PM
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I had an old humminbird one on starboard which never worked but just put a new garmin 498 one port (right side when looking at boat from back - hope that's right) and it works perfectly. It is aligned just inside toward the engine from the metal fitting on the back of my montauk transom about 1/4-1/8 in the water. I used regular marine silicone (alot of it) and will know how it did when I pull it out of the slip on September.
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 08/06/07 - 5:28 PM
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small 3x3" piece of "Sea Foam" plastic block.........where do I get this?
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 08/06/07 - 7:19 PM
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After spending what seemed like the better part of July filling old holes and getting the hull as water tight as I could, there was no way I could justify drilling more holes in the transom to remount the transducer. So I took Joe's tip, got a small square of marine ply, coated all sides with epoxy and let dry, sanded the bottom paint off that part of the transom, used 5200 to adhere the ply, coated with bottom paint, and then used 5200 and stainless screws to attach the transducer to the ply. Looks nice but more importantly, I feel much better at not having drilled into the hull again...
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| MW |
Posted on 08/07/07 - 12:33 AM
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West Marine, or any good boat store will carry "Star Board", it's a tad pricey but, you just need a small amt. also I noticed many kitchen "cutting boards" are made from this (cheaper).
mw
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 08/07/07 - 7:38 AM
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Do NOT use silicone caulk, use a polyurethane or polysulfide caulk to seal those screw holes.
Most synthetic cutting boards are made of polyethylene which is a very different type of plastic than Starboard. Not much will stick to polyethylene.
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| chrepp |
Posted on 07/07/08 - 6:14 AM
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Moose. When you mounted your tranducer with 5200, did you clean down to the glass or just past the wax?
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| moose |
Posted on 07/08/08 - 8:34 AM
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Chris,
My hull is painted. I cleaned it well and did not sand.
MIke
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| Grady95 |
Posted on 07/08/08 - 12:38 PM
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I use aluminum, about 1/2 or 5/8, cut into a square. I'll drill and tap that to match the screw pattern of the transducer bracket. Now, I can use SS screws and just bolt the transducer to the aluminum plate.
To attach the plate to the boat, I'll clean the surface of the transon well, rough sand the back of the plate and cement it to the transom with Gorilla Glue. Holds well, no drill holes in the glass. Gorilla Glue sets by contact with water. It doesn't get any better than this!
Good Luck,
Grady
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 07/08/08 - 4:55 PM
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I mounted my transducer on the starboard side as I had my kicker on the port side. The transducer is not big enough to act as a trim tab, it had no affect at all on the way the boat rode.
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| slagheap |
Posted on 07/19/08 - 8:15 AM
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I just mounted a transducer to my Dauntless 16 utilizing the boat's starboard mounted ladder. I just did not want to risk drilling into the transom and finding out that the location was not suitable. I drilled 2 holes into the stainless ladder bracket and installed the transducer with a home made bracket and stainless hardware. The location of the transducer is approx 18'' away from the 115 Yamaha and sits in the water just below the hull's bottom. I tested the set-up last week in the open ocean using a Lowrance X59. It worked perfectly at all speeds with no interference from the motor. At the end of the day I simply unbolted the transducer bracket from the ladder without interfering with the transducer's alignment.
Mike
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