Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
It was a dark and stormy night . . . No really. When I rebuilt my 1960 13 Sport the first time I installed the extruded vinyl rub rail that was supposed to be closest to original. I installed it with adhesive only except for the two transom screws to avoid holing the hull as all good Whaler-rebuilders do. Last Fall I removed the rub rail in preparation for up-grading the hull's finish. I cleaned it and stored it in my attic over the winter since it was in fine shape, and I hoped to install it on my boat again. But when I pulled it out of the attic the other night and "dry fit" it on the hull with painter's tape, it proved to be at least a foot too short! I know that it is not as tightly fit as it will be when it is finally glued on, but over a foot short! I really don't want to start the adhesion process without knowing I have enough rub rail to complete the job. Anybody know what I can do? I am planning on experimenting with heating it to stretch it into shape, but would appreciate the expert advice I have come to count on from W.C. members. Any ideas for heating it? Can anyone suggest a source for new, authentic rub rail material if I have to resort to replacing it? Thanks in advance for all comments and suggestions.
Charing, you forgot to mention it was also a cold night. I've had 3 Whalers, two 22 outrages, and a 25. I've pulled both 22 rub rails as its how you access the wiring to the bow lights. If you dial through the posts, and there is more then a few, you'll probably find the same issue.
My answer, which has worked on both the reinstallation of the rub rail, is first (and your in cold country) wait for a very warm sunny day. My installation procedure is, lay out the rub rail from right to left around the boat, and install the screws on the stern with the rub rail still on the ground.
At the peak of the heat, reach down at the bow, and insert it, working you way aft, first right, then left. It may be tight if your rub rail is a little short for some reason, but as long as its hot, you will easily get a foot in the heat, as its like a huge rubber band, compared to now!
Thanks Duf. Sounds like a great idea. I'll just have to be patient, and wait for the heat. Using your method, I should be able to install everything except the bow light until the rub rail is necessary. As usual, W.C. comes through.
Use to build boats awhile back....at the shop we would keep the rub rail in a vat of hot water till soft then pull it out and install wet, sometimes used baby oil for lubrication.
I agree with Dragonscape. The idea is to get the rub rail as warm as possible, which while cold or cool, has little to no elasticity. Once warmed up, which is surely not a problem in the sun down here in S Texas, the rub rail will easily stretch. By securing the stern first, and then moving to the bow and inserting it, having the same sag, or slack evenly on both sides, it ensures an even fit on both sides or your boat. I learned the hard way the first time i did it, as i started on the stern on one side, made my way up to the bow, and down the other side and came up short. By securing the stern, both sides, it will come out perfect!
