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Interior Restoration/Refurbishment Advice Needed
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| Jeff_C |
Posted on 10/16/12 - 3:58 PM
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Basically I am undertaking a redo of the interior of the whaler I just bought. I don't want to go too crazy but I want to fix as much of the crazing that I can as well as the larger impact related gelcoat issues. There's also an area on the transom where the engine bolt was basically tightened to the point that the washer ripped through the gelcoat. (There might be more there but the transom seems very solid and there's no other evidence of rot).
Anyway the one stipulation that I promised to my wife is that I would add antiskid of some sorts to the bow area near and above the hatch (this will be a tender and she is worried about her or the kids slipping)
So given the above here is what I understand to be my choices after I grind, fill and fair all imperfections:
1) prime and 2-part paint while adding grit to the paint in the areas where antiskid is desired.
2) prime and tuff-coat the whole interior
3) gelcoat the interior and add an antiskid stick on in the desired spots.
Any input is welcome.
Jeff
1970 13' Sport |
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| crbenny |
Posted on 10/16/12 - 5:36 PM
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Jeff,
I restored an 11' sport last year. Interior was damaged and crazed everywhere. I had the interior done in LineX as they have a marine formula with Kevlar that they spray on hot. I did mine in classic Whaler blue. It came out beautifully once I added a new rubrail and mahogany interior. Looked like a new boat. I'd be happy to send you before and after pics.
Chris
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| Jeff_C |
Posted on 10/16/12 - 6:24 PM
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looks like what the tuffcoat is supposed to come out like.
would love to see before and after pics when you get a chance
jeff
1970 13' Sport |
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| Swamp |
Posted on 10/17/12 - 4:20 AM
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Will you be doing the work yourself? How important is your time, and what is your budget? Do you ever plan on selling the boat?
Bedliner will be the most cost effective, take the least ammount of time, and can look really good if you don't mind a bit of a utility feel. However, it will have the greatest impact on resale value of the boat. For many people, it will be a deal-breaker.
Gelcoat will be the most expensive and most difficult, but can potentially produce the best result.
Paint is a happy medium.
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| Jeff_C |
Posted on 10/17/12 - 6:17 AM
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I like to same money so while I have no specific budget I would like to be efficient (a couple of hundred bucks either way won't matter) and my plan is do as much of this myself as possible over the winter to keep myself bust until boating season  . Do I ever plan to sell it?...who knows. I guess it's possible but not anytime soon.
I'm pretty handy but have never sprayed anything large (except for using an airless for latex in my basement) so that's why I am leaning towards fairing out everything using Formula 27 and then roller painting with a 2-part. I saw a boat that Metan Marine had restored using Awlgrip and I was blown away at the quality of the finish. Although I suspected they sprayed it.
Decisions...Decisions...Decisions...
Thanks for the input.
Jeff
1970 13' Sport |
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| rockfish777 |
Posted on 10/17/12 - 7:03 AM
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From what I've seen, most non skids have grit, and they always look dirty. Except sprayed truck bed type coatings, and kiwi grip. You need to watch videos on how to apply. I used to have a charter boat, and safety was very important. This is easier to clean, than the grit or stuff added to the paint, besides the grit wears through after a short time. Kiwi grip, and sprayed truck liners type look the best, and great for traction even when wet, and slimy from fish.
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| Jeff_C |
Posted on 10/17/12 - 8:52 AM
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@rockfish: Yeah. I kinda knew that. I am really struggling between keeping the boat true to its origins and just going for the safety that my wife desires.
Considering that my main passengers will be the two dogs and a pig (yes we take our micro-pig with us on boating trips) that I need to tender to shore relatively frequently the truck-liner concept is winning favor with me as I can only image what their claws/hooves will do to the paint.
I have a long way to go before finalizing this decision as I still have a fair amount of grinding, fairing and sanding to do.
I suspect this won't be my last post on this subject.
Jeff
1970 13' Sport |
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| Jeff_C |
Posted on 08/12/13 - 3:16 PM
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Fini!
I didn't have time for in process postings but here are some shots during and after:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/q01bnyvbph...QefgI8ngJV
1970 13' Sport |
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| Binkie |
Posted on 08/13/13 - 9:17 AM
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Jeff, you did a great job with your 13 footer, but what blew me away is, you are towing it with a Prius.
How does it tow? Do you think a Prius will tow my 15 footer. I have read and heard that they have no tow rating, but I have found that hitches are available. The reason a Prius is not sitting in my garage is I didn't think of it as a tow vehicle. I tow my 13 and 15 footer with a Vibe with no trouble at all, but I would love to have a Prius.
rich
Rich |
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| Jeff_C |
Posted on 08/13/13 - 12:27 PM
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Binkie
Thanks on the whaler. I dawdled all winter and then pulled it all together in a few weeks of late nights when I realized I was going to potentially miss the whole summer and my big trip out east (the reason I bought it).
Anyway, I seriously don't even notice the boat back there when trailering but then again the tongue weight is minimal and the boat itself weighs approx 500 lbs and the trailer (as best as I can recall) was about 200 lbs (I think I posted this somewhere on the site).
Anyway, I based my decision to go for it based on this thread: http://priuschat.com/threads/prius-towing-capacity.39695/
I have no idea on how heavy the 15' whaler is so I can't advise there.
Let me know how it works out...oh and if you get the hitch make sure you get the wiring harness that supports your LED lights...the cheap harness won't work and will blow out your lighting systems. I believe the harness I got ended up costing as much as the hitch but was easy to install and works perfectly.
Jeff
1970 13' Sport |
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| zappaddles |
Posted on 08/13/13 - 3:35 PM
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On the Nancy G I used "Griptex" coarse texture anti-skid. A similar product is now available at our local Lowes store so it's possibly availble where you are. Don't let the "coarse texture" fool you. The granuals are about the same size as popcorn salt. It doesn't look at all dirty. Others on this site have rolled gelcoat and might chime in with opinions about their results.
If you can't play hurt....stay home. |
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| Jeff_C |
Posted on 08/15/13 - 12:47 PM
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zappaddles wrote:
On the Nancy G I used "Griptex" coarse texture anti-skid. A similar product is now available at our local Lowes store so it's possibly availble where you are. Don't let the "coarse texture" fool you. The granuals are about the same size as popcorn salt. It doesn't look at all dirty. Others on this site have rolled gelcoat and might chime in with opinions about their results.
If you read up you'll see I went for the Tuff Coat and I can say that it was easy to apply and so far it has performed well. It too has course salt like pellets but they are rubber in this product.
1970 13' Sport |
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| wing15601 |
Posted on 08/15/13 - 1:11 PM
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On the area where the motor mounting bolt has crushed the transom you could use one of these, http://prolineindustries.com/transom.html. Or you could have a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum or stainless steel cut to your specifications. Make sure its larger than the damaged area and use plenty of marine caulk behind it.
I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport. |
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| Jeff_C |
Posted on 08/16/13 - 7:09 AM
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wing15601 wrote:
On the area where the motor mounting bolt has crushed the transom you could use one of these, http://prolineindustries.com/transom.html. Or you could have a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum or stainless steel cut to your specifications. Make sure its larger than the damaged area and use plenty of marine caulk behind it.
Dang...those are nice. I've already rebuilt the damaged area by cutting it back and filling with MarineTex (it wasnt that bad) and I put back the old aluminum plates but I might replace those with one the custom jobs.
I also had a piece of aluminum cut as a backer for the towing eye: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vtmn55gsoqohmw7/IMG_1120.JPG
I didn't want to risk even the 2" washer being pulled through.
1970 13' Sport |
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