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waterlogged Montauk
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| captbdarnell |
Posted on 01/26/12 - 8:04 PM
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Might buy an mid 70s montauk 17. Looks like foam is waterlogged. Project boat for the wife. What is best way to dry out ??? Have shop can turn hull turtle and let sit there.
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Edited by Phil T on 01/27/12 - 6:35 AM |
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| thegage |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 6:00 AM
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Why do you think it's waterlogged?
Anyway, most here would agree it's futile to think you can dry out a waterlogged hull; just walk away and find another.
There are a ton of posts (and opinions) here if you do a search.
John K.
John Kittredge
1991 16 SL - 2013 E-TEC 90 |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 6:33 AM
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One indicator of a hull that has significant water intrusion is how low it sits in the water. When at rest, where is the water line on the transom (assuming a 320-360lb motor). Is it above the splashwell drains? If so, by how much?
The definative method to determining water intrusion is to weigh the hull at a weight station.
There have been many owners who initially thought their hull had significant water intrusion. After drilling holes, cutting out parts of the deck, minor water amounts were found. Given this record, I am hesitant to recommend cutting or drilling anywhere until the hull is weighed.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| captbdarnell |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 6:57 AM
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More info: Found at mechanic shop and been sitting for 3 years, Has numerous drill holes in deck and when you step in area water pushes out. outside hull good shape and has most parts. If I can get for price offered cannot go wrong
Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/27/12 - 1:34 PM |
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| zappaddles |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 12:19 PM
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If you like a challenge, are commited to doing this yourself and are 100% sure the boat is worth the effort you might want to pull a Captain Kirk here and "go where no man has gone before" (that I'm aware of) by removing all furniture and cutting out 12" rectangular sections from side to within 6" of each side of the centerline. Remove the decking from these areas, examine the foam and act per your findings. Replace the water damaged decking as needed leaving appropriate number, strategically placed and properly sized holes in the deck to allow for re-foaming the hull with pourable marine foam. Then re-fiberglass the deck with the utmost strength and durability in mind.
Unless you get the boat for very cheap (subjective term) you'll likely end up with more in the boat than you could have bought one in usable condition.
Keep us posted.
Zap
If you can't play hurt....stay home. |
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| contender250 |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 1:28 PM
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Do not walk..Run away from this boat, there are to many out there to start off with one that is waterlogged, I would not take the boat even if it was given to me...
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 1:35 PM
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Leave the boat where it is......
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| captbdarnell |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 6:18 PM
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I thought this would be a cool project but I don't want to create a nightmare. I can get the boat, running motor and trailer for a grand. As per my previous post stepping on deck water is coming up from numerous unsealed old screw holes. That is telling me its just full of water. I hate seeing good equipment wasted.
Question- I have a 98 outrage 20 and I understand it has no wood in hull and deck construction. Is this true for all Whalers. Thanks
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| Binkie |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 8:26 PM
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If you can get the whole rig for a grand, here is another option. A mid '70's outboard for a Montauk is worth about $500 if it runs well. Hopefully it is a Mercury. A trailer for a Montauk if its decent is worth$500. Buy the rig, leave the Montauk off at the landfill. Then buy a 17' tin boat, join the AOMCI
(Antique Outboard Motor Clu put the motor on the tin boat put the boat on the trailer, tow it to the Antique Outboard meets, run it around the lake a few times and have some fun.
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| Karlow |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 8:30 PM
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That might not be too bad of a deal!
You get a trailer, engine, and a complete set of Montauk hardware for a grand. A good galvo trailer will go for about $500.
The whaler hardware would be good for about $500 easy if it's in good shape. The motor would be all profit. Then all you need is a good boat! If you are not is the boat junkyard business. you might want to keep looking.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 01/27/12 - 8:54 PM
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captbdarnell wrote:
Question- I have a 98 outrage 20 and I understand it has no wood in hull and deck construction. Is this true for all Whalers. Thanks
There is wood in the hulls of all Classic Whalers to mount items like interior parts, rails, etc...
Take a look in the "Downloads" section under "Wood Locating Diagrams"......
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| zappaddles |
Posted on 01/28/12 - 5:13 AM
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I was thinking more like $500 for the rig. Then start exploring the water situation in the hull and if it's a basket case you can make a few bucks by selling parts (off of the hull), motor and trailer. Be advised: You can get up-side-down in a boat faster than you can imagine. Been there. Done that.
Zap
If you can't play hurt....stay home. |
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| zappaddles |
Posted on 01/28/12 - 5:15 AM
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I was thinking more like $500 for the rig. Then start exploring the water situation in the hull and if it's a basket case you can make a few bucks by selling parts (off of the hull) and motor. Then scrap the hull and sell the trailer. Be advised: You can get up-side-down in a boat faster than you can imagine. Been there. Done that.
Zap
If you can't play hurt....stay home. |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 01/28/12 - 6:28 AM
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My thoughts are way different. A mid 1970s Montauk if whole and the parts are in decent shape is worth a good deal more than $500. Just to name a few parts, Winged Center Console, Bow and stern lights, Bow and side rails, RPS Z legs and seat back. It could have the forward fishing platform and all the teak hatches. It could have the Mills Bimini parts. If these parts are in reasonably good and usable condition I see many members come here looking for them.
I certainly agree to forget the idea of repairing a squishy hull unless you have major facilities, equipment, dollars and time.
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| Bake |
Posted on 01/28/12 - 6:37 AM
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I will bet that the only water in the hull is inches around the screw holes where you are seeing it. I have dug foam out of two different boats. One was my project 15. Someone had cut a round hole in the gunnel for a stern light. the hole was 1 1/2 inches round and standing in water.The foam was brown on the surface and about 1/4 inch down was nice and white.
Flip the boat hang some tarps and turn on some lights for a few weeks. when you flip it back over inject epoxy at the holes to bond the deck and foam.
You can get a lot of use out of the boat for only a grand I say go for it. The good news, you can part out the whole boat for more than a grand if I'm wrong.
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| Fishmore |
Posted on 01/28/12 - 10:12 AM
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I am with Bake. I have seen what he describes. Now if you are interested in restoring the boat to be as good as new. This is probably not the boat. If you are looking for a good fishing and family fun boat for not much money this is a good start. Do as Bake suggested and after you fill in the holes and rebond the deck with epoxy just enjoy it blemishes and all. In most cases it will still be a safe boat and a lot of fun.
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| gusgus |
Posted on 01/28/12 - 10:44 AM
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I am with give it a try guys. I am neither a whaler purist, or in a hurry. So if you have a dry place to store the boat, investigate the hull for water (drill holes) and wait, why not? Mine has water in it, I believe they all have some. I removed the forward tube and placed it nose down for 3 months now, the dripping is really slowed down, but time is on my side. I can install a new tube, run it for the summer, nearing the end of summer remove the tube and begin draining again.
1987 Outrage 18 W/150 Merc and 8 Honda |
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| Bake |
Posted on 01/28/12 - 11:10 AM
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I am not saying there is never a waterlogged whaler. I have read the stories and seen some terrible pictures. the boat you describe will never be the pristine hull some are but for a grand running down the river who cares. if you want to know how heavy it is go float it. take pictures and then compare to other pics on the net as to how high they float. Yes you can take it to a scale and all that but at the end of the day if it floats well what else matters.
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| OutragousBob |
Posted on 01/28/12 - 4:27 PM
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I'll be the first to admit that I was sure that any hole in my Whaler ment that I had the dreaded water intrusion issues. After doing much work and filling many holes I am much less concerned. I do not think the foam in a Whaler acts like a sponge. It will take on water and hold it dearly, but I believe it takes some kind of hydraulic force to migrate very deeply into the foam. The other thing that could help water to migrate through the foam is freeze thaw cycles. As wet foam freezes the trapped water expands breaking air cells in the foam and allowing water to travel. If the boat doesn't have damage on the hull bottom that could force water in I'd bet the water intrusion is local to the open screw holes as Bake suggested. I had a failed through hull o-ring in my boat that was weeping water while the boat sat on the trailer. I removed the through hull tube and dug out all of the wet foam which was only 1/2" around the tube. This boat sat in the water with a failed o-ring for five months. If the foam acted like a sponge my boat would be full of water and it isn't. All that being said the only way to know if this boat is worth dealing with will be to weigh it
Edited by OutragousBob on 01/28/12 - 4:29 PM |
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| gusgus |
Posted on 01/28/12 - 4:49 PM
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Question OutragousBob, Isn't that still just an opinion? Or is it the cost it would take to return it to it's heyday, is BER? (beyond economical repair)
My thought is if it floats well enough to run around with limits, run it around and know when to back away from dangerous water.
Edited by gusgus on 01/28/12 - 4:50 PM
1987 Outrage 18 W/150 Merc and 8 Honda |
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