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1985 13' SS wiring project
Tanked	#1  Posted on 09/15/10 - 1:20 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 22 Comments: 2 Joined: 09/15/10	I've decided to wire up my bow light on my 13' whaler. I've read a lot on this site and others on how to go about it. i've attached a wiring schematic of what i'm proposing to do. Can anyone comment on it and let me know if it's right/wrong/overkill. and suggest any changes. [img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/ppimages/19425/wiring_schematic%2013BW85.jpg[/img] i'm waiting for a warm day to pull off the rub rail and replace the old wire and see where the stern end of the wiring is coming through the boat. also. I'm using a dual purpose battery. starter and lights. should i install a battery switch? will that help preserve my battery strenghth for starting the engine? thanks, I'm new to this site and to boston whalers. looking forward to restoring the wood work this winter. Edited by Tanked on 09/15/10 - 1:44 PM
bmw90w	#2  Posted on 09/15/10 - 2:12 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 328 Comments: 1 Joined: 09/08/09	Im an overkill kind of guy too,but 6 gauge is too much to feed your block with. You won't be pulling enough amps to justify that with. I would run 8 gauge at the most. As far as the lights, I would bump that up to 16 gauge not 18. I believe 16 is stock. They won't need more amps than that anyway on that short of a run. for your 12 volt cigarette lighter, I went overboard and used 10 gauge. It is also a short run from mine to the block. In case you plug in anything more demanding, I would use anywhere from 10-12 for that. Good luck and post some pics! 1984 Montauk
JohnnyCW	#3  Posted on 09/15/10 - 3:56 PM
Member Posts: 684 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/16/09	I always install a battery switch as close to the battery as is reasonably possible. Just in case something odd goes wrong with the electrical system, a battery switch could mean the difference between a disaster and just some minor repair work. A fire aboard could force you and your passengers into the water. Even if the vessel is disabled, your almost always better off if you can stay in the boat.
MW	#4  Posted on 09/16/10 - 1:54 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	Not sure about the guage of the wire, I would take the above advice on that. I would eliminate the battery switch since you already have circuit protection at the fuse box. A good starting battery has plenty of power for what you want, so I would avoid the "Combo" deep cycle/starting battery and just run a good "Starting" battery. I also put in a power recepticle (cigarette lighter) outlet in my boat thinking that it would be "Invaluable", yet I've never used it. Real Estate is at a "Premium" on our smaller model Whalers, so you only want to take along what is absolutely neccessary. Welcome aboard "Whaler Central" ! Matt
rogerhoward	#5  Posted on 09/16/10 - 8:04 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 101 Comments: 4 Joined: 08/16/09	While maybe not strictly necessary, I put in a battery switch - mounted right on the battery box for convenience - and a 12 volt receptacle (which I find useful for my iPhone, which doubles as GPS and soon as the basis for my sound system). I've got a group 24 battery and keep it charged in between uses, though it seems to barely get a dent in its capacity during my typical outing.
JohnnyCW	#6  Posted on 09/16/10 - 1:50 PM
Member Posts: 684 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/16/09	I spend a significant amount of time on the water professionally and I've seen what seem to be an endless number of vessels that have suffered from electrical shorts between the battery and fuse/circuit panel. Granted, most all of those incidents would have been avoided if other mistakes hadn't been made. I've also seen more than one fire the result of a failure in the high current side of the starting system which isn't protected. I stand by my recommendation to be able to easily and quickly disconnect the battery from the vessel's electrical system.
bmw90w	#7  Posted on 09/16/10 - 2:17 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 328 Comments: 1 Joined: 09/08/09	Especially on the water, I agree Johnny! There are never enough safeguards. To ensure many happy days on the water, this extra step and others like it will save time, money, lives. If something goes wrong, just turn the switch, and no more power. You don't have to trace wires and figure out what is wrong while something is sparking. Turn the switch, and your safe. We all know a boating environment can be harsh on electronics. We also all hate ANY kind of problem on the water. I have backups to my bakups in my boat to try to prevent as many problems as possible. It might be a bit of a pain, but taking care of electricity responsibly can be vital not just to yoruself and passengers, but also to the expensive electrical goodies on board. Good luck either way. I suggest using the best stuff you can afford. The extra 20-40 dollars on a switch is well worth it. 1984 Montauk
Tanked	#8  Posted on 09/16/10 - 5:48 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 22 Comments: 2 Joined: 09/15/10	Thanks for advice. i'll take it. my next decision is were to mount all this, without putting to many holes in the boat. i saw a picture of whaler with the fuse box and distribution block mounted under the console and one with it mounted near the battery in the stern. any recommendations on which. i either have to run 8 gauge wire from the stern to the console or run only the 16 gauge wire to the switch and 10 to the cig lighter. should I mount the fuse box to the hull or can i mount it to a finished piece of marine ply? anyone have pictures of their setup? Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/11 - 2:35 AM
bmw90w	#9  Posted on 09/16/10 - 8:07 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 328 Comments: 1 Joined: 09/08/09	I am not familiar with your boat design, so this is why I'll need you to post a pic or two as well. Is it not possible to move your battery under the console? I ended up doing that and am very happy with it. If not, I would not use marine ply. I use starboard since it won't rot. It cuts like wood, and I bolted it to the console and then mounted my goodies. I rented a 13 once, but they are all different so I am not sure of your space. Other 13s may have a switch back there I don't know. Either way, I would always try not to have holes in the hull. Plus if under the console they are better protected from the elements. I also screwed my battery switch to the battery box, but it just depends on how you want your setup to me. Shoot some pics, and I will try to offer better advice. 1984 Montauk
Tanked	#10  Posted on 09/20/10 - 12:05 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 22 Comments: 2 Joined: 09/15/10	i'm almost done with the wiring. i've decided to mount fuse box and distr. block under the console. there was already a hole in the hull to the rub rail for the bow light in the stern so I'm going to route the bow light wires back from console to the stern. to connect to bow light and stern light. any suggestions on wiring conduit? or conduit hull connector to cover the hole for the wire to the rub rail and wire to the stern light. i'd like to make it as clean as possible. i'll post pictures as soon as i get a chance. busy days. Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/11 - 2:36 AM
Joe Kriz	#11  Posted on 09/20/10 - 12:08 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11431 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	bmw90w, The Super Sport models actually have a side console rather than a center console. You can view many models in the "Whaler Models and Info" link on the left sidebar. Here is the Super Sport 13' http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...hoto_id=58
bmw90w	#12  Posted on 09/21/10 - 3:23 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 328 Comments: 1 Joined: 09/08/09	Thanks for that Joe. I knew where to look, I was just being lazy is all!! 1984 Montauk
Tanked	#13  Posted on 09/27/10 - 8:51 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 22 Comments: 2 Joined: 09/15/10	sorry. meant Side Console, but for expediency used CC. didn't think it was relevant to the discussion. i see now how it might be confusing. the news is i finished the wiring and now know why no one posts pictures of their mounting setup. it's a PITA to get under the Side consol to snap pictures let alone mount the stuff. i added a battery switch and mounted it on the battery box to add to the overkill of this project. i just have to mount the stern light this week and figure out where to store it when it's not mounted. any suggestions on quick release wire connectors for the stern light?
Joe Kriz	#14  Posted on 09/27/10 - 9:27 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11431 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	OEM Part Photos link on the left sidebar has a photo and info on the "Stern Light 2 prong connector". http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=97