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Well I finally decided to move up to newer technology and made a deal for a Suzuki DF-70 for my 1983 Montauk. Motor is used and has been dealer serviced and checked. The deal comes with the motor, Binnacle mount with cables, 17 pitch prop, wiring harness with tachometer, the key switch, steering drag link and mounting bolts. It also comes with a short warranty from the seller as the factory warranty is expired.
In this I am mounting this myself which I have full equipment and more than enough mechanical experience to do a proper installation. The question I have is what am I missing that I will need to install and start this motor properly. I have not mounted a motor before so this will be an adventure. I want to make the best use of my time and get everything ahead done so i can maximize my warranty period.
My current set-up is a 1984 Evinrude 75 hp 2 cycle.
Last year I replaced all the fuel system all the way through to the motor so I will have to drain and flush that system to get rid of the old 2 stroke fuel.
I see a lot of people have put on 10 micron water absorbing filters instead of the standard screw on fuel filter which I currently have. Is this something I should change? I am inclined to change it.
I have the issue with the mounting of the motor in that my old motor was mounted in the lower blind holes. The Suzuki seems to be mounted from everything from Jack plates to directly on the transom everywhere from flush to what ever 3 holes up really means. I do not want to set the motor back and use a jack plate and I am inclined to mount this motor 2" up from the bottom of the boat to the cavitation plate. Will I need to plug the blind holes? I am guessing that I will not ever need to have to mount the motor lower than 1" above the bottom of the boat and I can pick a set of holes to make it all work. Is this a good plan or am I way off base? Is 5200 good sealer to seal the mounting bolts?
My battery is in the console but currently does not have a battery disconnect I am told that these motors the Emm draws power when not in use and the system should have a disconnect if stored more than a month. My boat sits a lot any suggestions there?
I am guessing that my old battery has to go it is at least 4 years old from Wal-Mart and is not very big. I am worried about power consumptions of these newer motors. Any suggestions?
I have no owners manual or service manual so I will have to find those EBay draws a blank.
My to get list at this time, manuals, Oil 5 quarts and Filter. I assume the motor will be shipped to me dry. Water absorbing filter, 5200 sealer, Fuel Line fitting to the motor.
Are there any other filters in the system I may need? I am inclined to get a water pump kit for back-up while I am ordering stuff. Any suggestions would be helpful.
For viewers reading this same questions from another site sorry for the duplicate posting.
Thank You,
Steve
I have my old 19 pitch stainless prop from my evinrude is it usefull to this Suzuki motor or should I let it go with the old motor.
Steve same thing I did. 1981 Montauk17 had a 1981 Evinrude 70 hp 2 cycle. changed to a Suzuki DF 70 i believe the holes will match or i think they will. my Df70 is a little low but not worth moving it up IMHO WOT 35-36 mph plenty fast enough for me. I have a factory manual if you need to see something, I can fax or scan then e mail. Good luck it's not that hard to do yourself like I did. Suzuki props are different unless they have changed the shaft from 2000... I'm running a 14x19pitch on mine.
You ask a lot of questions, but here are a few thoughts that caught my attention.
A 70 on a Montauk is not a rocket ship, so real high mounting gains nothing since the boat isn't fast enough for a surfacing prop to make any sense. The transom design alone will force the engine up about an inch, the bottom bolts coming into the splashwell will determine your height, and I would use the 7-1/4" vertical spacing as Joe indicates if the existing top bolt holes allow it. I would recommend a transom stiffener bar (about $25) across the top bolts, or if you don't want to do this, use heavy duty (from West Marine) 2" diameter 1/2" fender washers at the top. In either case, be sure to use brass nylock nuts on the bolts, either fine or course thread depending on the bolts furnished. This will prevent galling (seizing), a common problem with course thread 1/2" SS bolts/nuts. Course thread brass nylocks are about $1.50 each, but the fine threads can be about $6.00!
Fill in the bottom previous blind mounting holes with teak plugs, driving in and glueing as needed to the thickness of the plywood core, then covered with a polyester resin filler ( such as Evercoat Formula 27) the thickness of the glass, then gelcoated over. Do not use wood dowel. No strength and they deteriorate fast. Teak is tough, hard and waterproof.
DO NOT USE 5200 on the bolts. It is a powerful adhesive not used for this purpose, and if the engine ever has to come off, will take the gelcoat with it! Use Life Seal clear caulking.
For proper sealing of the bottom bolts (important to keep the transom wood dry), they MUST go in form the outside. Slide the bolt though the engine, then apply the sealant to the bolt shaft before putting the engine up against the transom. The top bolts go in from the inside and should be in place also before moving the engine up to the boat. At the engine side, on all four bolts, use M-12 (metric) washers. These are small outer diameter and fit the engine bracket. Conventional washers are too large.
You should be able to download a copy of the engine manual from the Suzuki website.
I think a water separating fuel filter is a waste of time and needless rigging clutter on a Montauk. Boston Whaler does not rig their factory powered boats with these filters at all - not needed. These filters are only for internal fuel tank boats. On deck tanks do not collect condensation. The engine will have it's own filter on it, or if you want double fuel filtration, a simple in-line fuel hose filter can be installed..
