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Here we go.... My 13 is in the garage
sraab928
#41 Print Post
Posted on 03/01/08 - 8:43 AM
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Ok - another question. The wires from the original lights (boat didnt have any when I got it) were siliconed in there respective holes. It got them out today - There is a doble wire - gray and black - Appears that one end comes out the bow hole where the light should be and one end comes out a hole near the transom. Any easy test to tell if the wire is ok? I currently do not have a light for the boat otherwise I would just hook that up. I was thinking I could twist the ends of the wire together on one end and test continuity on the other. Seems logical to me. Also what wires would run to a stern light or are they just run external?


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
Derwd24
#42 Print Post
Posted on 03/01/08 - 9:29 AM
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You could twist the ends together and check for continuity, but you'd also have to untwist and do the same test making sure there's no continuity as they could be crunched somewhere along the line and shorted as a result of damage.

Not sure about the second half of your question, do you not have wires to the stern light now?

 
sraab928
#43 Print Post
Posted on 03/01/08 - 9:50 AM
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There is no stern light - When I got the boat it was all manual - no battery at all -

Here is a pic of the hole in the rear where the wires come out...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/85Whaler13005.jpg

It is basically on the opposite side (inside of boat) of the red Boston Whaler decal on the hull


Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:22 PM
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
Derwd24
#44 Print Post
Posted on 03/01/08 - 10:20 AM
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This ARTICLE may shed some light, so to speak. What kind of stern light are you considering?

 
sraab928
#45 Print Post
Posted on 03/02/08 - 5:12 AM
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Thanks for the link.... that answered quite a few questions.

To be honest hadn't really thought about which lights I was going to use yet. I don't see any signs of mounts for a previous terminal block but the need for one makes sense. I will test the wires and see where I am at today.

Thanks for the help!


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
sraab928
#46 Print Post
Posted on 03/06/08 - 6:10 PM
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Well I tested the wires and they are good believe it or not. So thats good news. Now I just have to pick which bow light and stern light I am going to use. Cool


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
MW
#47 Print Post
Posted on 03/06/08 - 6:56 PM
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You can just ground the stern light to the "Neg" battery terminal with a wire "Ring terminal", then run the "pos" from the anchor light wire to a two position pull switch on the console that has "pos" power going to it, position 1 is just the Anchor light on, position 2 on the pull switch is both anchor and running lights "on". The Bow light can be just grounded by a ring terminal to the neg battery post in the aft section where the wires come out, then run the "pos" wire to the "pos" two position pull switch on the console, both circuits can be protected by a simple water proof "in line" fuse on the power lead (pos. wire) of each light. Running external wires through a 3/8" poly hose (or pieces of hose) makes them easy to attach with plastic clips, or cable ties to any fixed point, or you can attach it along the steering cable up to the console (Cable ties require no drilling, and are easily and cheaply replaced), if a long run of wire through the hose is needed, get the hose as warm (leave it in the sun) and straight as possible, a shot of WD-40 in the hose helps too when fishing the wire through (ya gotta push the wire through, so an extra pair of hands helps a lot to hold the hose striaght while you push the wire through), the shorter the run, the easier it is to get the wire through the hose. You can also split the hose length wise and slide the wires in that way if the run is too long to fish them through. Hope this helps !
mw

 
danedg
#48 Print Post
Posted on 03/06/08 - 6:57 PM
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Sraab,
You should run new wires for the bow light through the new rub rail...while you have the chance....whether you need them or not!!! Because you will!!!Cool
....believe it it or not..them old wires still work...believe it or not...they will just disintegrate...soon...Sad
I now have to pull the (replacement) 2 piece rubrail off...to replace them very wires...properly....
The old ones were molded into the hull....Angry
..another indication the BW never expected us to be mesing around with these old bathtubs this long.....Wink
The best way is to run a 4pair on 16ga. wire. up underneath to the bowlight area while you're messing with the new rubrail...the first time....
Why a 4pair?
It'll give you a set of spares 20 years down the road.....Cool

 
sraab928
#49 Print Post
Posted on 03/07/08 - 4:10 AM
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Thanks for the tips MW - It makes perfect sense. Once I get interior finished and ready to go in I will get it done.




Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
sraab928
#50 Print Post
Posted on 03/07/08 - 4:11 AM
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danedg - I will do that when I replace the rubrail. Im thinking that project is going to be later rather than sooner... You will see in an upcoming post from me why.... stay tuned... spoiler alert.. GrinGrinGrin


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
fabricator
#51 Print Post
Posted on 03/07/08 - 8:28 AM
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MW wrote:
..... Running external wires through a 3/8" poly hose (or pieces of hose) makes them easy to attach with plastic clips, or cable ties to any fixed point, or you can attach it along the steering cable up to the console (Cable ties require no drilling, and are easily and cheaply replaced), if a long run of wire through the hose is needed, get the hose as warm (leave it in the sun) and straight as possible, a shot of WD-40 in the hose helps too when fishing the wire through (ya gotta push the wire through, so an extra pair of hands helps a lot to hold the hose striaght while you push the wire through), the shorter the run, the easier it is to get the wire through the hose. You can also split the hose length wise and slide the wires in that way if the run is too long to fish them through. Hope this helps !
mw


You could also use an electrician's fish tape. I'd recommend using a lubricant made for wires, not WD-40, so you don't have issues with the petroleum in it degrading the insulation or hose.

 
sraab928
#52 Print Post
Posted on 06/02/08 - 5:01 PM
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Here is a quick update - Wood is just about varnished... man thats lots of work. Dont know why some pieces are different colors but oh well... is what it is... Pic attached - cell phone variety - sorry for that...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0602081902.jpg


Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:22 PM
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
Blue_Northern
#53 Print Post
Posted on 06/03/08 - 8:12 AM
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Scott,

The wood looks great! I was a bit confused when I looked at you photo because your tool boxes were all lying flat on the ground Grin. Then I realized the photo needed to be flipped.


Blue_Northern attached the following image:


[93.66Kb]
Edited by Blue_Northern on 06/03/08 - 8:24 AM
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion
 
sraab928
#54 Print Post
Posted on 06/03/08 - 11:34 AM
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Thanks for flipping the pic Rob... I was kinda tired when I posted it. Im so tired of sanding and varnish you have no idea. In between coats I have been compounding and buffing the hull inside and out. I keep saying why am I doing this... just to throw crab traps, minnow traps and fish guts all over it.... I guess its just a labor of love.


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
Blue_Northern
#55 Print Post
Posted on 06/03/08 - 2:44 PM
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Scott - Always glad to help. You know we all tend to do things like that. I found myself doing drywall in a friends new house today wearing one of my nice black polo shirts. Needless to say It will need a good soaking -- When I was a kid and played baseball I always wore a nice clean uniform. I sucked (not really) but always said it was not how you played but how you looked while playing the game. Cool


Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion
 
sraab928
#56 Print Post
Posted on 06/11/08 - 4:15 PM
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Ok finished waxing the insides - starting to layout the woodwork... Its hard working on 2 project boats at once....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0611081849.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0611081850.jpg


Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:23 PM
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
arthureld
#57 Print Post
Posted on 06/15/08 - 11:22 AM
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Looks great Scott.

 
sraab928
#58 Print Post
Posted on 06/15/08 - 12:49 PM
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Thanks - Hoping to have the rest installed this week and put the motor on.


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
sraab928
#59 Print Post
Posted on 06/16/08 - 4:49 PM
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Ok interior is installed... Not bad for my first interior woodwork redo. I learned alot in the process.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0616081915.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0616081916.jpg

I set the motor on to see how things are going to fit - it appears that the Honda might have different mounting pattern than the Evinrude - it looks like the mounting holes are about a half a hole off - I am tired right now and the motor was a handful by myself so it could be fine - I had to walk away and relax.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0616081916a.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/0616081917.jpg


Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:23 PM
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
jsb91010
#60 Print Post
Posted on 06/17/08 - 12:12 PM
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dude that is looking so sweet!!! i would kill for a brand new engine like that

 
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