Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
That is the style railing i was looking for.Don't know where I would find the bow piece? Also where did you get your varnish love your color of wood? Did you put a bilge pump in? I have the mahogany floor piece that goes from side to side in the stern. I was thinking in trying to convert that to the back piece. Are you familiar with that piece I'm talking about? It's slotted and the battery and fuel tank sit on it. Any ideas
Mac's bell,
If you call Specialty Marine.com at 760-579-3050, they can probably quote you on the bow piece. They show the whole assembly on their website, but I'm sure they can provide just the bow section. Are you interested in the rails I have? I planned on adapting them myself, but I found a standard side rail setup (finally!) for a fair price, so I plan to use them instead. I did get a shipping quote on the ones I'm selling: it's about $30.00 - maybe somewhat less...
I bought Ribbon mahogany (African Mahogany) from a hardwood supplier here in WI, and copied the original wood dimensions. Took a lot of sanding, etc. I use standard Minwax Helmsman gloss polyurethane varnish (untinted). I thin the first 3 coats with 2 or 3 parts thinner to 1 part varnish, sanding lightly with 320 grit between. Then I apply at least 4 coats of undiluted Helmsman, again sanding with 320 between. Sounds like a lot of work, but it really wasn't bad. The varnish dries in about 8 hours. I keep my boat in my garage, so I have no issues with weathering. A lot of folks use up to 6 or 7 coats if they leave their boat out, uncovered, in the summer.
Mac, I have a small bilge pump that will sit in the well at the stern, although it really isn't a necessity, it's easier than pulling the plug and running fast to pull any water out... I've not seen the piece you describe for the stern floor. Sounds like a nice touch. I assume it'd be teak? I plan to use a fuel tank rubber mat, and a small rubber mat for the battery. I may end up putting the battery under the console - but don't know yet...
Thanks for all the advice and tips. I've tried to call speciality few times and hasn't had much luck getting them on the phone. Talked to them once. I'm going to our local speciality furniture shop and try to get some mahagony I want to raise back seat and raise the console same height. Would like to show you what I have but I'm not to sharp with this phone and posting pictures. Maybe you can give me some ideas. I will try and call speciality about bow piece. Thanks mac
Mac, keep trying to reach them - it may be worth it. Regarding seat height: Although I raised the rear seat to the top of the riser, I did not raise the console. I am considering doing the console also, but since the console top attaches to the starboard riser, I need to find an acceptable solution for the 4 or more inches of space between the top and the riser. One of a couple of good winter projects...
The other idea is: if I don't get a buyer for my long side rails, I may have them bent to create a lower-than-factory-height bow rail assembly that isn't attached to the stock side rails. I've seen some 2-piece types with a small gap at the center where the bow light is located. Hate to see them languishing in the corner of the garage.
If you meant you need advice on how to post photos, here's what I did:
I created an account (free) at www.photobucket.com, then copied my photos (JPEGs) into my "album" there. Then, to link that to a posting here is as follows:
Go to your photo in Photobucket, copy the web address showing at the top of your browser, paste that address into your posting here. Now you have to edit the address a bit by putting square brackets [ around the letters "url" (no quotes) at the front of the web address you copied in. This tells the computer that everything after that is a link to a web location. Then, put the same bracketed url letters at the end of the address, BUT inside the brackets should read "/url" (Forward slash, then url). That command tells the computer where the end of the web address link is. If you did it right, when you preview your posting it will show up in a different color, indicating that is is a link to a web location, and it will open that link.