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Finally pulled the trigger on repowering my Montauk 17
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| egerrity |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 5:57 AM
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I put a new pic on my personal page of the engine mounted and not complete yet.. Looking good.
NO, its not on the highest mouting hole.... the technician refused to mount it that high. It seems really high right now. I wasnt going to sour my relationship with the installer at that point... He had alot of work to still do. Im sure is going to perform just fine. Dash pics to come
Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 6:34 AM
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There is no reason for the installer to refuse your instructions as long as it complies with BPR's guidelines.
I would have a quiet word with the Service Manager (the boss) and explain that it is in his best interest, not to piss off a customer spending $9,000. I would point out to them that if you decide to raise the motor later, they will be doing it for free.
Some dealers are just pathetic at customer service.
Edited by Phil T on 03/26/12 - 6:35 AM
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| egerrity |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 7:04 AM
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Its really not the end of the world.... I am very happy with the job they are doing.
If I feel so inclined I can raise the motor. ..
We will see how it runs....
Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP |
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 8:13 AM
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The technician is an idiot. He should have done what you asked.
Yes, the boat will perform fine as is. It will perform better with the motor raised. But you will never realize the difference unless you raise the motor and it will never be easier to raise the motor than right now before it leaves their shop.
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| egerrity |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 8:26 AM
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Everyone slow down here..... Idiot is a strong word. I did not push the issue.
Exactly how much of a difference am I going to see Tom?
Was it worth pissing the guy off??? I think u guys can all see the fine line we have to skate when it comes to this stuff. Especially when he has hours of other things to finish on my boat.
Im not going to loose sleep over it..
Any positive feedback from anyone?
Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP |
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| Silentpardner |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 8:54 AM
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I am sure you will be happy with your new engine! I see the others point here also, but bottom line, unless your racing or something, (note that Tom's avitar has a boat jumping what apparently is at least another boat or 2, shades of Evil Kneival there ), you will be just fine, I bet, at the dealer's setting on the engine height. You gotta remember, that guy that is installing that engine for you installs probobly at least 100 or so of 'em a year, if he was incompetent, my money is on that he would already be out of business!
Recently on this board, I noticed that these same two guys instructed another small boat owner here to continue raising his engine and buying new props to the point that the poor guy was out of money and had his engine so high that there was no way he was ever going to get a prop that would stay in the water when he made even a slight turn! Fine if your racing in straight line, but completely impractical for the rest of us. I guess these guys have unlimited bank accounts and want to beat every boat on the water to the dock at dusk...I dunno
I bet that for you, if your like me, that Whaler of yours will be perfectly satisfactory for a nice pleasurable day on the lake or the bay, and if you see these speed freaks while your out, just wave at 'em when they pass you! One thing about it, they'll prolly already be out of your way at the dock by the time we get there anyway
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| egerrity |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 9:07 AM
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Thanks Silent
Nice boat u have there!
I realize that everyone is trying to help and has alot of knowledge with all this stuff.
I appreciate all the advise and help. Thats what makes this site so great.
Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP |
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| Silentpardner |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 9:23 AM
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You know, that guy installing your engine has to install it per Evinrude specs for the warranty also. Evinrude pays a LOT of people BIG bucks to set those specs for the engines fuel economy and reduced wear and tear on the parts. If there is ever a problem with the engine during the warranty period, the dealer will have to honor the warranty. If you go and start moving the engine around and re-prop it, you WILL have trouble getting the repairs under warranty. I gurantee this!
Just another thought...
Happy Whalerin' !
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| CES |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 10:48 AM
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Silentpardner wrote:
I am sure you will be happy with your new engine! I see the others point here also, but bottom line, unless your racing or something, (note that Tom's avitar has a boat jumping what apparently is at least another boat or 2, shades of Evil Kneival there ), you will be just fine, I bet, at the dealer's setting on the engine height. You gotta remember, that guy that is installing that engine for you installs probobly at least 100 or so of 'em a year, if he was incompetent, my money is on that he would already be out of business!
Recently on this board, I noticed that these same two guys instructed another small boat owner here to continue raising his engine and buying new props to the point that the poor guy was out of money and had his engine so high that there was no way he was ever going to get a prop that would stay in the water when he made even a slight turn! Fine if your racing in straight line, but completely impractical for the rest of us. I guess these guys have unlimited bank accounts and want to beat every boat on the water to the dock at dusk...I dunno
I bet that for you, if your like me, that Whaler of yours will be perfectly satisfactory for a nice pleasurable day on the lake or the bay, and if you see these speed freaks while your out, just wave at 'em when they pass you! One thing about it, they'll prolly already be out of your way at the dock by the time we get there anyway
I can assure you Tom is spot on with his advice and is not out to make race boats out of our Whalers....
The gentleman who was instructed to raise his motor in a prior thread, does not always divulge the information when he makes a comment....which leads us to guess, ask questions and make a "guesstimate" of what is needed to have his boat perform to the best of it's capabilities.
Raising the engine until the cavitation plate is about an inch or so above the bottom of the transom is sound advice.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 10:58 AM
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Silentpardner wrote:
Recently on this board, I noticed that these same two guys instructed another small boat owner here to continue raising his engine and buying new props to the point that the poor guy was out of money and had his engine so high that there was no way he was ever going to get a prop that would stay in the water when he made even a slight turn! Fine if your racing in straight line, but completely impractical for the rest of us. I guess these guys have unlimited bank accounts and want to beat every boat on the water to the dock at dusk...I dunno
Silentpardner,
I have to step in here and correct your misinterpretation before these rumors get out of hand.
The main topic of that thread was too much water spray coming from the cavitation plate on the motor.
Nothing more, nothing less...
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...rowstart=0
Water spray coming from the cavitation plate means the motor is mounted too low...
No where did anyone suggest keep buying props... They suggested trying different props due to his prop blowing out. Many places have loaner props to try out before purchasing... This is always recommended.
However, if a member asks what is the best prop to purchase, then that information can be passed on from prior experience concerning that same hull and motor combination.
At this time, his water spray seems to be corrected but the prop he has is blowing out.
He still has choices...
1. Lower the motor one hole
2. TRY a different prop
Please keep to the facts and stop spreading misinformation.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 11:04 AM
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egerrity,
The motor installed looks great.
Out of curiosity, what bolt hole on the motor was used for the final mounting?
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| egerrity |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 11:11 AM
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Thank you Joe
The top bolt has one more hole above it. The engine is in the 3rd hole. It seems very high to me. The cav plate is more than an inch above the bottom ... more like 2 in.
If I had pushed him to put it up to the highest setting I would have been paying to lower it.
Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP |
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| Silentpardner |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 11:14 AM
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Sheesh...I rest my case
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 11:34 AM
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egerrity,
OK... So it is mounted in the 3rd hole and you can only go up one more hole.....
Looking forward to hear how this works out so let us know.
Silentpardner,
What case? Suitcase, Briefcase?
The way I see it you have no case at all. Just giving misinformation.
I will ask you again to stop spreading misinformation and keep to the facts.
Everyone,
Here is a factual case of a motor being mounted too low on a friend of mines Outrage 17' I....
The two seats in the quarter stern cannot be used as the spray from the motor being mounted too low completely soaks the people sitting there.
This obviously is not acceptable to him or his passengers.
His motor is mounted all the way down and, due to his model, we are going to raise it 2 holes up to begin with.
If you are getting too much spray from your cavitation plate, then raising the motor will not only reduce or eliminate the spray, but will also give you a little better performance from having less drag in the water.
Sometimes it is a little trial and error, and sometimes it may require a different prop but not always...
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| kamie |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 11:50 AM
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Ed,
More important than what hole the engine is in, is where does the cavitation plate site when the boat is up on plane. Do you plan to take the boat for a shakedown cruse with the dealer? If you don't I would talk to the installer and make sure that they will work with you to correctly setup the engine, including raising or lowering it on the transom if required. BRP does recommend in their install manuals that the cavitation plate be 1 1/2 to 2 inches above the keel. A lot depends on the prop you plan to use, some can run higher in the water column and some want to be lower.
Once the install is completed, raising or lowering the engine should take the dealer a couple minutes, not hours to do.
Do you have any photos showing the stern with the engine in the down position?
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| kamie |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 11:59 AM
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Silentpardner wrote:
You know, that guy installing your engine has to install it per Evinrude specs for the warranty also. Evinrude pays a LOT of people BIG bucks to set those specs for the engines fuel economy and reduced wear and tear on the parts. If there is ever a problem with the engine during the warranty period, the dealer will have to honor the warranty. If you go and start moving the engine around and re-prop it, you WILL have trouble getting the repairs under warranty. I gurantee this!
Just another thought...
Happy Whalerin' !
This is totally not true, you will never have any issues getting warranty work done on the engine if you move it's height or change props from the one the dealer gives you. Evinrude does do a lot of testing, and believe me, they adjust the engine height and reprop to get the best performance depending on the test. They won't use the same prop for a flat out speed test that they do to pull 15 water skiers out in formation, it just doesn't make any sense.
If we follow your twisted logic Silentpartner then I could never get warranty work done on my Evinrude because it's on a jackplate where i can move the height and do, and because I run Mercury not BRP props?
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| egerrity |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 12:02 PM
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I will be taking a demo ride with the installer. I will make sure I make a note of the RPS and speed.... ect ect..
I do not have a pic from the rear yet...
I was there when the engine was mounted and he did measure the hights with a straight edge from the keel... Liike to be about 1.5 to 2 inches up...
More importantily I want to make sure it wont blow out when making turns.
Who is kidding who, I will be more interested in the gauges, I wont even have the head to ask about how to flush the engine. lol
Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 12:22 PM
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egerrity,
Which engine controls did he use?
The new "Buck Rodgers" style?
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=56
(see last photo)
Binnacle with key or without key?
Or something other?
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| egerrity |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 12:33 PM
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JOE
They used the Binnacle mount with the key.... like the one in your last pic... I wish BRP would redesign that shifer... its not so nice looking and it seems like they can cut some fat off it.
Im sure I will get used to it.
Ed
Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 03/26/12 - 12:39 PM
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Excellent....
That would be my choice too.
Looks like this from arthureld's personal page.
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/p...onsole.jpg
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...er_id=3564
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