Engine mounting instructions
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Gamalot |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 9:26 AM
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Thanks Tom. I have numerous things going on all at once with my boat. One is going from a stationary bracket with no power trim/tilt to one with power T&T. My motor does have the old and standard aluminum prop, I have 2 and both are perfect. I don't have the numbers in front of me but could get them quick if it would help.
I do agree with your advice to try it as it is however, these changes will be easy this winter while the motor is off and the hull is under cover while being refurbed. Plugging holes, drilling new ones and adding and plugging drains or even jack plates will be best done now if there is a better set up.
I suppose that my hope of doing it all now and getting it dialed in just right the first time is a pipe dream but it sounds good to me and getting it close will be a good start.
One excellent advantage I have over who ever set this boat up 36 years ago is the collective wisdom of WC and all those who have done the experiments and had success. I do have to stick with the 1984 Evinrude V4 90 but I am pretty sure there are some modifications that have been proven by many of our members.
Do you think starting another topic and asking about modifications might be a good idea?
Gary
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 9:58 AM
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Gary -- Now you are confusing me. You already have the motor on a bracket? Is it the bracket or the motor that will cover the drain tube. If it is the bracket, leave it where it is and raise the motor on the bracket not the bracket on the transom.
Why can't you test run your boat now with what you have?
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 9:59 AM
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What are the part numbers of your existing propellers?
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Gamalot |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 10:23 AM
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Sorry Tom. When I refer to the bracket I am talking about the standard mounting bracket that came on my motor and is bolted to the transom. It has no PT& T, just a single piston in the middle and the drain hole is just above that piston. The only way for me to raise my motor on the transom is to un bolt the bracket and re bolt thru the lower holes.
Both props have 13X19 I can read and one has 390896 on it. The one on the motor I cannot read the other number.
Gary
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Gamalot |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 10:27 AM
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Tom W Clark wrote:
Gary -- Now you are confusing me. You already have the motor on a bracket? Is it the bracket or the motor that will cover the drain tube. If it is the bracket, leave it where it is and raise the motor on the bracket not the bracket on the transom.
Why can't you test run your boat now with what you have?
I have the entire hull stripped! CC is out for rebuild and I have all new cables for steering and controls sitting new in boxes. I got the boat as a basket case and have tons of work to do before I ever get it in the water. I will remove the motor in the next few weeks so I can rebuild the carbs and change out fuel lines and other parts this winter in the garage while the boat is in the barn.
Gary
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 10:39 AM
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OK, your boat is in pieces.
If you are going to upgrade to power TnT then use a newer style unit that will not cover the drain holes.
Mount the motor two holes up and use a 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantage.
The old OMC aluminum 13" x 19" props are not the right props for your boat. Sell them on craigslist or Ebay.
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Gamalot |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 10:57 AM
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That makes perfect sense! I already bought a 1984 PT&T unit for this motor but it needs rebuilding. Will newer model PT&T units fit on my 84 V4 motor?
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Gamalot |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 11:17 AM
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I don't know if this will work and I do know that Joe does not appreciate O/S picture hosting sites.
This is what I have now!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gamalot/Boat/100_0517.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gamalot/Boat/100_0518.jpg
Gary
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 11:25 AM
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A couple of photos in an entire thread is OK to get your point across.
However, I put those 2 photos in your personal page for you.
You know have 4 photos in your personal page. All you have to do is turn it "ONLINE" and insert those photos that are already in your folder.
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Gamalot |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 11:30 AM
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Thanks Joe. I am being helped by another gracious member to get all my photos resized in Infraview before I try to add them. Computer Geek is certainly not a name I have ever been called!
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Mr T |
Posted on 09/12/10 - 3:31 PM
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Tom W Clark wrote:
OK, your boat is in pieces.
If you are going to upgrade to power TnT then use a newer style unit that will not cover the drain holes.
Mount the motor two holes up and use a 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantage.
The old OMC aluminum 13" x 19" props are not the right props for your boat. Sell them on craigslist or Ebay.
+1 to this. I did this with my 69 nauset running a 1990 V4 evinrude 88, with the stiletto prop. Big improvemnt over the original setup running all the way down with an aluminum prop.
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Gamalot |
Posted on 09/13/10 - 6:12 AM
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Tom W Clark wrote:
OK, your boat is in pieces.
If you are going to upgrade to power TnT then use a newer style unit that will not cover the drain holes.
Mount the motor two holes up and use a 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantage.
The old OMC aluminum 13" x 19" props are not the right props for your boat. Sell them on craigslist or Ebay.
Just double checking before I pull the switch on a new prop. Do you know if the part # 31447 is right for the 13.25 X 15 Stiletto Advantage you recommend?
All I can find is the words Stiletto Performance prop, No ADVANTAGE in it.
Gary
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 09/13/10 - 7:15 AM
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No, that is not a Stiletto part number.
You want a Stiletto Advantage 4.25, part # 811315 with a DE-503 hub kit.
If you can find a used or old-stock rubber hubbed Stiletto it will be an Advantage I, part # 21315 for an OMC 90.
Do not pay more than $250 including delivery.
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Geo |
Posted on 09/13/10 - 6:50 PM
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You are correct about the lag bolts. They were used for the lower pair of bolts and they were screwed directly into the wood of the transom. You can try raising the engine so that the lower pair of bolts will enter the splash well.
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Gamalot |
Posted on 09/14/10 - 3:55 AM
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Geo wrote:
You are correct about the lag bolts. They were used for the lower pair of bolts and they were screwed directly into the wood of the transom. You can try raising the engine so that the lower pair of bolts will enter the splash well.
I DO NOT have lag bolts screwed directly into wood Geo. My lower bolts enter from the splash well and go into threaded holes in the mounting bracket of my motor. I believe this is the reference to "Blind Bolts". I would bet if any of our members were Marine Mechanics back in the days 1960's through the mid 1980's they would tell us there was a template guide provided by OMC that would hang on the back of the transom and act as a guide for drilling. I think mine and many other Johnson/Evinrude motors were mounted all the way down as a standard practice by most dealers as conventional wisdom of the day. It appears the invention of much better propellers and instant adjustment of trim and tilt is what has given rise to the current wisdom of raising the motor to achieve the optimum performance.
Back as a young boy my Dad always had ski boats and there was basically 2 props available for most motors, Speed or Power. At one point I remember he even had a very special prop that has adjustable fins that allowed for a number of changes in the pitch angle. These days there is a lot more geometry to setting up a motor to match a particular hull design as well as power trim and tilt adjustable on the fly and even trim tabs so we can match engine RPM at Wide Open Throttle and dial in the speed and handling characteristics to suit our needs.
I remember very well the trials and tribulations my Dad went through back in the early 1960s getting each of our boats set up with the correct propeller and the tilt pin in the correct slot so as to achieve the desired performance. It was amazing that a simple change in the tilt pin position on the motor could produce a vast difference when pulling a skier out of the water. Today we can usually just push a button or two once we find the right prop and best motor mounting height.
Gary
Edited by Gamalot on 09/14/10 - 4:01 AM |
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Geo |
Posted on 09/14/10 - 5:04 PM
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O.K. Gamalot. It sounds like you have a configuration exactly like I would recommend. I'm using the same mounting scheme for my 16' 7" Nauset with a 90 h.p. 2-stroke Yamaha except and a 19" three blade prop, except that one hole up has turned out to be a bit too low and results in the bow being too level at high speed.
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Gamalot |
Posted on 09/14/10 - 6:16 PM
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Going out on a thin limb here Geo but, from what I think I know about the differences between a 16.7 Nauset and a 16.7 Montauk, There is no difference as to the outside hull design or how they should perform with very similar motors. We both have a great advantage of tapping in to the collective wisdom of those who have gone before us and benefiting from their findings.
Unlike the days of past where it was hit and miss and trial and error, we have members here who have been there and done it and are willing to share what lessons they learned.
You can bet your ARSE I will re-mount my motor 2 holes up and buy a Stiletto Advantage 1, 13.25" X 15 Pitch prop and never look back.
This is the exact reason I am here because I don't have the time, energy or money to make the mistakes with a boat that is 36 years old and has many dedicated followers who already went there.
I can't speak about Yamaha motors or even the Nauset models but from what I see your 16.7 sure does look like my 16.7 and that's good enough for me. I am learning all sorts of minor differences in the interiors of BW hulls but I think the basic smirk less, 16.7 hulls are pretty close to identical and should perform the same. Flip them up side down and even the Guru's here probably would not be able to ID what model they are.
On another note, Name me another boat that is 30-40 years old and has the following and information available like we have right here about our Whalers!
I feel like I have an AQUAVETTE!
Gary
Edited by Gamalot on 09/14/10 - 6:19 PM |
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