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Here we go.... My 13 is in the garage
sraab928
#1 Print Post
Posted on 02/13/08 - 4:33 PM
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Well I decided to give the 13 a face lift for the upcoming season. I am going to pull all the wood and refinish. I will replaced in a year or two with a custom design but for now I will just make it look as good as possible. While the wood is out I will flip the hull, strip the bottom and bring all the fiberglass back to close to original as possible in and out. Who knows maybe even throw a small 4 stroke on there to boot. Hint hint.

Check out the photos of my restoration in the Project Gallery section:
sraab928 13' Project

So far I have only run into one snag. The steering wheel nut is big time frozen. I'm going to take the assembly into my shop tomorrow and see what we can do... but salvage doesn't look so good. The threads are nonexistent.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001122.jpg

Here is the before on the interior.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001119.jpg

Here is where I am now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001124.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001125.jpg

Can you say cupped?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001126.jpg


Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:20 PM
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
ioptfm
#2 Print Post
Posted on 02/13/08 - 4:37 PM
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If the cupped seat is in decent condition, you may be able to flip it and still use it with the cupped angle facing up


Tom
1979 Sport 15'
 
sraab928
#3 Print Post
Posted on 02/13/08 - 5:14 PM
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I am planning on reusing all the wood - I will try your flipping idea. I just need to get a season or two out of it. I don't have the time to do what I want right now plus I have a little more planning to do. I'm hoping the wood holds up to the refinishing. I have some cracks that worry me in the console wood.


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
ioptfm
#4 Print Post
Posted on 02/13/08 - 7:12 PM
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Also, you mention that you are concerned about cracks in the center consol. It may be possible to replace just that one damaged piece. You can use the damaged one as a template.............Just a thought Wink


Tom
1979 Sport 15'
 
sraab928
#5 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 3:07 AM
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Here is a pic of the piece with the cracks in it.... This piece may have to be replaced...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001127.jpg


Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:21 PM
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
sraab928
#6 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 4:42 PM
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Ok - got the nut off the steering wheel - that was a project. I think the shaft is shot - I will try to rethread it but I'm not overly optimistic.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001129.jpg


Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:21 PM
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
sraab928
#7 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 4:44 PM
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Here are some cracks in the white of the rubrail - Does anyone have suggestions on this? do you have to replace the whole thing?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001133.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001130.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/S6001131.jpg


Edited by Joe Kriz on 05/05/09 - 1:21 PM
Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
kamie
#8 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 4:49 PM
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call Sue and replace it.

 
sraab928
#9 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 4:51 PM
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kamie wrote:
call Sue and replace it.


Ive never replaced one before - is it a hard job? Whats involved?


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
kamie
#10 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 5:11 PM
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The black part (the rubrail) slides into the white part (receiver track). The track is either riveted to the hull or put on with SS screws. I prefer the screws but you can use rivets. To replace, you need to pull the old one off and fill the holes left in the hull. You can fill with Marine Tex, it will be hidden or even 5200 Then on a warm day, take the rub rail and track outside and let it warm up in the sun. Start at the stern and screw or rivet the new track on. Once on, you slide the rubrail in place. You can download instructions for the 15/17 foot, the 13 is basically the same idea. A warm day helps a lot to get things to bend well. Also having an extra pair of hands helps, especially if your trying to drill, hold, rivet ....you get the picture.


 
sraab928
#11 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 5:29 PM
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That doesn't sound too painful and might be worth the investment. Mine looks like it was sundamaged which cause slight cracking.


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
kamie
#12 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 6:15 PM
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The one I pulled off my 13 was brittle and cracking. When I get to that point in the restore, I put on a nice new one.

 
CES
#13 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 6:36 PM
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I have a new one on mine and let me tell ya, it was one hard rail to put on. Make sure you have plenty of C-clamps and also make sure the rubber is VERY warm....or else it's going to be a bad day for you.


Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
Binkie
#14 Print Post
Posted on 02/14/08 - 8:00 PM
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Your steering helm looks shot to me. They are easy to find for a reasonable price on E-Bay or this website. A heatgun is a help making the hard bends in the rubrail, just don`t overdo it.

rich

 
MW
#15 Print Post
Posted on 02/15/08 - 2:49 AM
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TRICK: Stretch and pull the rub rail slightly by hand when putting it in the track (that's why you want a warm day), it fit's in the channel easier, and when it contracts back up it fits snug in the rub rail channel and won't come out, I tapped my whole rub rail in with a block of wood and a rubber mallet for an hour or so, it was short by 6-8" when I got back around to the transom, I pulled it to stretch it in, and the whole rub rail fell out of the entire track on the whole boat, I was a tad upset, I then realized that they stretch it to put it on the boat, it went back on in 10 minutes with some stretching, I walked away (Job Finished) wondering if I'm a really smart guy, or really dumb. An extra pair of hands as stated above really helps a lot. I would also just replace the steering box helm, and put on a new wheel and cable, these model's (13' and 15') are so low to the water that the steering parts take a lot of back splash and spray over the bow, at least on mine it does, "steering" is something you don't want to be wrestling with out on the water, make it work perfect, also with these models I grease the tilt tube, and pivot shaft on the motor like once a week if it sit's in salt water, otherwise salt gets in the grease making engine turning difficult by drying it out, repairs can be expensive for this (been there), marine grease is cheap, so is a grease gun, you can NEVER over grease. Replacing the steering cable is normal maint. for me every few seasons.

mw


Edited by MW on 02/15/08 - 3:14 AM
 
sraab928
#16 Print Post
Posted on 02/15/08 - 3:10 AM
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Thanks for all the tips guys. I guess I will move forward with my existing projects and hold off on the rubrail until the weather improves. I am working in a heated garage (best investment I have ever made!) but will probably need the sun to get that part of the project done.


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
MW
#17 Print Post
Posted on 02/15/08 - 3:19 AM
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Oh man, a "heated garage" ! my friend works on his 13' in his garage with a flashlight in his mouth, no heat, it was 12*F the other night, we're out there, and I'm yelling at him "we can't work like this" !
mw

 
sraab928
#18 Print Post
Posted on 02/15/08 - 3:29 AM
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Yeah we custom built this house in 2006 - The garage design is a bit unique. 2 car entry from the driveway and a one car entry from the side with a bump out for work benches. It ends up making a a really nice size 3 car garage because you can get some longer stuff in there. Anyway when we were getting ready to do the concrete pour I decided to put in radiant hot water in floor heating. My wife thought I was crazy. Its was a great decision. I can lay on that floor on the coldest days and it feels great. I keep the thermo set around 60 which is a great temp to work in.

If you look close you can see the third garage door on the left side of this pic. Its the only one I could find that gives you an idea of what I am talking about. We put everything we had in this house and totally love it... except for the taxes... Shock

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1985%20Boston%20Whaler%2013/IMG_0487.jpg[/IMG]


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
Yiddil
#19 Print Post
Posted on 02/15/08 - 10:49 AM
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I replaced my rub rail from the original 1964 one to a white on white one I got from Sue....I still have the original if someone wants it....The new one came out fantastic....and is much better suited when you need a rub rail the newer ones are more heavy duty...see my page for pics....

Doing the actual work was not easy or hard, just different because of the difficulty in bending the tracks while attachiong with ribots....and yes clamps are the only way to go if your doing it by your self...

by the time your done your hands will hurt but it will be a site for sore handsSmile)

PS working on a whaler is never a bad day, just a labor of love....if you need more help back channel me S...

My Best, Henry


Henry AKA THE YIDDIL
 
sraab928
#20 Print Post
Posted on 02/15/08 - 1:51 PM
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Henry, that white rub rail looks really nice with the blue interior.


Scott
1974 21' Revenge w Mercury 200 ProXS V8
 
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