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Order a new 2015/2016 90 ETEC or take a still considered new 2013 90 ETEC?
NeilCarp
#1 Print Post
Posted on 10/14/15 - 6:17 AM
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I am repowering my newly refinished and refitted 1978 BW Montauk 17. My Evinrude dealer has a 2013 ETEC 90 in Graphite gray mounted on the back of a new Carolina Skiff that he is offering to sell me for about $600 less than ordering a new from the factory one in white. I can handle the gray but I am concerned about the motor sitting unused for 2 plus years. When the engine is shipped from the factory, is it specially treated or "winterized" are something to keep anything from deteriorating? I know the outboard motors no longer have model years but come on, its probably going on 3 years old. The $600 is not that much lower than the 2016 but it is more likely because the price is so good on the 2016 because we are headed in to the slow season. Prices we are talking are 7800 vs 8400 which I think is good for the 16. Would do you guys think?


Edited by Joe Kriz on 10/14/15 - 10:11 AM
 
EJO
#2 Print Post
Posted on 10/14/15 - 8:51 AM
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Wouldn't you get the same warranty on either engine? Per you the model year is no longer on the engine so what difference does it make.
The dealer would stand behind both of them so the price is the determining factor unless in the near future you're planning to get rid of the "old" boat with "newer" engine.
Personally I look at hours and maintenance record on any machine. I rather buy a 1973 Buick Century from grandma with 12,000 miles on it always garaged and dealer serviced than a 2000 Buick Century with 120,000 miles on it from a kid that hot rodded and self maintained it. (Ok just a sample) You see what I'm saying if you keep the boat for a long time to come it doesn't make a difference in having a slightly newer OB.


Skipper E-J
m/v "Clumsy Cleat" a 2008 Montauk 150
 
NeilCarp
#3 Print Post
Posted on 10/14/15 - 9:30 AM
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You are correct. Warranty would be the same. Currently 6 years with special promotion. My main concern is the age of the motor.

 
Pr William
#4 Print Post
Posted on 10/14/15 - 9:31 AM
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No brainer, buy the 2015/016. In this age of computerization 3 years make a huge difference. I am not saying there is going to be a big difference but why chance it for $600. I don't believe anyone can say there is absolutely no technological difference/upgrade between the 013 and 016.

 
NeilCarp
#5 Print Post
Posted on 10/14/15 - 9:37 AM
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That is what I was most concerned about but they will eventually have to sell the motor. Someone will buy it. If it was more like 1000 or 1200 difference I would definitely take it. Honestly both prices were lower than I was expecting based on Internet prices

 
tom blinstrub
#6 Print Post
Posted on 10/14/15 - 9:48 AM
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I would take the blue or gray engine over the white any day. The ETEC white won't match your tan Whaler. I just put a Blue Etec on my 1989 Outrage 18 and it looks a lot better than the white would have.

 
JRP
#7 Print Post
Posted on 10/14/15 - 10:41 AM
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NeilCarp wrote:
That is what I was most concerned about but they will eventually have to sell the motor. Someone will buy it. If it was more like 1000 or 1200 difference I would definitely take it. Honestly both prices were lower than I was expecting based on Internet prices


I would have expected a much deeper discount on the 2013 engine, too. There is no way I'd take that engine for a mere $600 off the brand new engine. Get the 2015/16 engine and you will have no regrets or misgivings. If for some reason you have to sell your boat in a few years, you will re-coup that $600 by being able to advertise a 2-3 year old engine instead of a 5-6 year old engine.

 
NeilCarp
#8 Print Post
Posted on 10/14/15 - 10:48 AM
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tom blinstrub wrote:
I would take the blue or gray engine over the white any day. The ETEC white won't match your tan Whaler. I just put a Blue Etec on my 1989 Outrage 18 and it looks a lot better than the white would have.


I painted mine Interlux Perfection Snow White

 
NeilCarp
#9 Print Post
Posted on 10/14/15 - 2:07 PM
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Ordered a 2016. It should arrive in 11 days. The 2013 had a build date of 10/12. Little too old for only $600 difference. Thanks for the input.

 
NeilCarp
#10 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 3:50 AM
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My motor came in yesterday and I instructed that they mount the motor 2 holes up which is 1 hole from the highest. This combined with the Stilletto 13.5 by 15 Advantage is supposed to be the right combination. The problem is while I told them to order the Stilletto, they order a prop called Solas New Saturn in the same size as the Stilletto. The parts guy said the Stilletto was not available. They have a BRP Viper in stock 13.5 x 17 but it is like $100 to $150 more. The parts guy said to try it with the Solas and if it is not right, he will swap it out while adjusting for price I am sure. Anyone know anything about the prop? Will it work with the motor 2 holes up? Will the motor be running too high? Thanks

 
action
#11 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 4:27 AM
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I have the Viper 15" pitch with an ETEC90 on my 1988 Montauk. Mine is mounted 1 hole up. My max speed is about 35MPH which is plenty for me. This may be due to the ratty bottom pain remaining. I really like the motor / prop combination

 
Weatherly
#12 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 5:38 AM
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Neil: Is there a reason why you instructed your installer to mount your new motor at 2 holes up? The preferred installation of the E-tec 90 inline on your hull is 3 holes up with a good stainless propeller, like the Stilletto. However, the Stilletto is no longer available because it is no longer manufactured. Also, the same size propeller in a different brand does not guarantee the same results. (I suggest you google Tom Clark and Solas New Saturn for additional background information.) Which gets me to the main point: mounting height and propeller selection are recommendations for overall improved performance, i.e., less drag, less draft, faster holeshot, improved economy, lighter wheel, etc., not just the WOT speed.

Bill/Action: You should consider raising your E-Tec 90 to at least 2-3 holes up given your use of a Viper. You will get better overall performance.

 
Frauke75
#13 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 6:42 AM
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Found that Tom C. had said:
"The Stiletto Advantage is the same propeller as the Turbo 1. It is offered in odd pitches only. If you want an even pitch you buy the Yamaha Performance Series 3-Blade...and pay even more"

Stiletto made/makes all 3 but now the Stiletto name is no longer used.
So... the Turbo 1, 13.5 x 15 is the same prop you want.

 
tedious
#14 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 8:30 AM
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Shameless plug: I have that Stiletto for sale here: http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...d_id=21663 Happy to listen to offers, also happy to loan it to you to try.

Tim


Edited by tedious on 11/04/15 - 9:43 AM
 
Phil T
#15 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 9:49 AM
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Please remember prop size is NOT universal.

A 13.25 x 15 Yamaha painted stainless steel prop has a different blade geometry than a Mercury, Solas or (fill in blank)

We have hundreds of owners on classic Montauks with the E-TEC 90 and dozens of performance threads.

While I have read about the Viper series of props, I have never heard of the New Saturn. Don't choose the New Saturn, since we have no tested reports from Whaler owners.

Weatherly is spot on with his comments. Raise it high.

Don't let the mech/sales team tell you otherwise. It is you that is spending $9,000+. It will not affect the motor or the dealer's reputation. You have a knowledgeable group of Whaler owners who know from experience.

When doing a test run you should expect 43-46 mph at WOT, 41-44 with bottom paint and gear.

Action - While you may like your setup, something is wrong.




 
action
#16 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 12:41 PM
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Likely 3 holes up would improve the speed. I just never got energetic enough to move it.

 
NeilCarp
#17 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 3:42 PM
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I went with the guy while they water trialed my boat and were really pushing for me to keep the prop. I dont think they had a 17 Viper in stock so I gave in and took the Solas. The boat was basically empty. Load was 2 men, no trolling motor batteries, and about 2 gallons of gas in a 6 gallon tank. Boat jumped up on plan is less than 2 seconds and it might have been closer to 1 actually. Salesman was saying 1. He actually back out of it because I think he had it trimmed up too much and was getting too high out of the water. He cruised at about 30 for a while I didn't look at the tach because I was watching my gps o my phone. He opened it up for a brief few seconds and I watched the tach swing past 5600-5700 rpms when he reallized it and back out of it again. When I looked at my phone, we were doing 36 mph. He said the prop was perfect once I get the ice chests loaded down, all the fishing gear, and 2 tanks of fuel. My feeling would be that a 17 would be better but at that point I just wanted to be done because of all the arguing over how high the motor should be. They said that 2 holes up was too high and that it either needed to be at the lowest setting or 1 hole up at most. I figure I will keep the 15 they sold me as a spare or when I want to bring the boys skiing. I will pick a better prop as use that for fishing trips. What is the new "best prop" since it appears the Stilletto is no longer available?

 
Phil T
#18 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 5:06 PM
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Please take this as constructive advice.

What arguing about height? How many Boston Whaler Montauks has he repowered with E-TEC 90 motors?

Time to plane is meaningless. Don't fall for the sizzle.

You are spending 9k and accepting a prop
they have in stock
versus what has been recommended. Even if you don't take Tedious's prop, a Yamaha prop is easy to source.

You should hit 5400-5500 with a light load with the appropriate prop on an empty load. Going past the WOT range is an indication the prop is not the optimum one for the hull/motor.

When doing a test run you should expect 43-46 mph at WOT, 41-44 with bottom paint and gear.
Hitting 36 is far too slow. When loaded, your WOT speed will be more like 32.

The salesmen is just that. Trying to make a sale of what he has, not necessarily want you want, asked for or is proper.

If you don't believe this thread, google "E-TEC 90 Boston Whaler Montauk" also search with "Holes up" and "prop size" and read the threads. It is all there.

We are offering you information based on experience. It's your call.

 
NeilCarp
#19 Print Post
Posted on 11/04/15 - 9:05 PM
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I trust your advice but it was a bad customer service experience and had I known it was going to end up like that, I would have probably gone with a yamaha or mercury but this dealer was the only evinrude and suzuki dealer less than an hour or more away. I didnt feel like arguing with them to take more of my money for the viper prop which they wanted an extra $150 for. It was my fault for not getting everything priced out to the penny up front but this was not a running boat so it needed to be rigged just like a new hull. I installed the helm for the Baystar steering and ran the hoses but didnt cut them because I didn't have the motor and I didnt want to cut them too short. In the end I was happy with the job they did except for the prop. They worked with what I had done but kept arguing about the height. I even told one of the guys that there are probably more of this hull out on the water than any other boat and there is a wealth of knowledge available. He didnt care and said that he had been doing this for 20 years and he knew better...Everytime I would bring up the prop, they would say I needed to lower the motor. I will buy the prop I want and keep this one as a spare. I believe it would be perfect for pulling tubes or knee boards so it might make sense to have a high pitched prop and a low pitched prop.

 
Weatherly
#20 Print Post
Posted on 11/05/15 - 5:42 AM
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Your E-Tec 90 inline was not properly rigged if during the first trial run the Evinrude E-Tec exceeded 5500 RPM at full throttle operating range. (reference page 63 of the Evinrude Operator's Guide, under specifications.)





 
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