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help with tohatsu 90 throttle and shift cables
CreekCaptain	#1  Posted on 01/27/13 - 9:39 AM
Member Posts: 1 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/27/13	Hey guys I Just purchased a 1974 16’ Currituck, great looking hull in excellent shape and came powered with a 1983 115 Evinrude. Compression was shot on it so it was just removed and now is going to be powered by a 2000 Tohatsu 90 that was pulled off another boat. I had a local boat mechanic mount it on the transom and then informed me the other throttle cables will not work because they are too short. He told me to purchase some 18 foot Teleflex cables and he would install it. Now he’s “booked out” and can’t fit me in to his busy schedule. My question is when I try to hook up the cables they aren’t shifting properly and seem very tight? Any help on installing these would be greatly appreciated. Do I start at the throttle, or motor, does it even matter? Is 18 foot too long for this boat, he says “no because you have to allow for the 2 foot loop at the motor” is this the case and how is the loop supposed to go?
Joe Kriz	#2  Posted on 01/27/13 - 10:19 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	What brand of engine controls do you have now? OMC? http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=56 You can see the loop in the photos here on an Evinrude 70hp http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=70 I used 20' foot cables for the loop in that photo for my prior Montauk. http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=40 Not sure which side the cables go on the Tohatsu so that would make a difference.
Finnegan	#3  Posted on 01/27/13 - 12:12 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	You have not told us what engine control you have. Most of the Curritucks came either with the Morse MT-2 binnacle control, or were equipped with the engine manufacturer's side mount "all-in-one" control. I think the binnacle control runs the cables through the floor tunnel, and side mount control runs them either along the starboard side back to the engine, or also in the tunnel. Different lengths would be required for each situation. Secondly, I have no idea how cables are rigged and adjusted to the engine on a Tohatsu. You will probably need to get a Tohatsu engine manual for that information. All of that being said, I will try to help by making the assumption that are using the Morse MT-2 or Morse MT-3 top mount binnacle control. No matter what you are using, I highly recommend the Teleflex "XTREME" line of cables, in 18'. ON a currituck, 18' should be plenty of length, hopefully not too much. They are the smoothest on the market and can take sharp bends if needed. The 18' length assumes they will run in the floor tunnel. I just rigged a Montauk, with a taller console than the Currituck, and 18' length worked perfectly. I did not use any "excess loop" at the engine, as I don't think it is necessary at all. Installation always begins at the control, not the engine. Once they are hooked up there, and functioning properly, attach them to the engine. You will have to study the cable information on the Teleflex website to determine which specific cables are used on a Tohatsu. The Morse end requires the "universal" connection, and you may find that have to buy them with the universal connection on the engine end, and then buy the engine specific adaptor connectors. Since Mercury and Tohatsu produce joint venture engines, and have cooperated together for many years, it could be that your Tohatsu engine uses Mercury style connectors. I just don't know. You can download Morse control details on this website for reference in adjusting and installing the cables at the control end. If you are using a Tohatsu side mount control, or top mount control, you most likely will have to use Tohatsu cables also. I don't know if Teleflex makes a cable for that situation.
Tom W Clark	#4  Posted on 01/27/13 - 12:19 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	I second the recommendation of the Teleflex tfXtreme control cables. Tohatsu use the "universal" style cables, specifically the CCX633xx series where "xx" = the cable length, measured end-to-end, in feet. Edited by Tom W Clark on 01/27/13 - 1:04 PM
Joe Kriz	#5  Posted on 01/27/13 - 12:56 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	I would love to see a photo of 18' control cables on a Montauk and compare it to my installation in the photo I show above. Larry, when you say not necessary, did you look at how clean my installation is? The control cables for the Evinrude are low and out of the way with absolutely no possibility of kinking when turning in either direction. http://www.whalercentral.com/images/a...7cable.jpg Submit a photo so we can add it to the article and allow everyone to view the different installations. Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/27/13 - 1:01 PM
Tom W Clark	#6  Posted on 01/27/13 - 1:06 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	You can get away without the loop, especially if you use the tfXtreme cables, which have a smaller allowed bending radius, but it's not as good. Teleflex is pretty explicit about using the loop.
Joe Kriz	#7  Posted on 01/27/13 - 1:09 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Tom, I have seen some installations that come out of the rigging tunnel, go up about 2 feet, and then down and into the motor. That type of installation seems like the cables could get in the way when fighting a fish in the stern of the boat. Mine are totally low, almost right on top of the splashwell and entirely out of the way.
Tom W Clark	#8  Posted on 01/27/13 - 1:19 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	Yes, straight out of the rigging tunnel and into the motor is very bad. I helped a friend re-rig her Montauk and its Mercury 100 this summer. The control cables came right out of the tunnel and into the motor. They were bent at the motor end rendering them very stiff so they had to be replaced. In a pinch I used a used set of 18' cables I had laying around which allowed the control cables to follow the steering cable around as it should be but not enough to make the loop in front of the motor. I had to just make a big S turn instead and it works OK but a loop would offer more protection and take up less space than the big "S".
cwk6	#9  Posted on 01/27/13 - 1:55 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 175 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/04/11	see my personal page for a photo of 15, yes 15 foot cables on a montauk! (the very last photo) In the photo it looks like they are making a sharp bend at the motor, but this is because the motor is turned to port. They exit the tunnel, come up along the side of the splashwell, and make a smooth bend into the motor (except for when the motor is turned to port, and they need not make any bend). If you like this setup, use 15 or 16. If you want the full turn at the motor, then still use 19 or 20's (an 18" diameter circle with circumference 4.5 feet makes up the extra length). Edited by cwk6 on 01/27/13 - 1:58 PM
Tom W Clark	#10  Posted on 01/27/13 - 4:23 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	That is precisely how I recommend NOT to rig a motor on a Montauk. The cables and hoses dragging back and forth along the splashwell both chafe the cables and hoses and mar the gel coat on the splashwell.
cwk6	#11  Posted on 01/27/13 - 4:53 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 175 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/04/11	I really don't have a problem with either occurring. Never realized there was ONLY one right way to rig a boat. To each his own I guess. I like my setup. Works best for me.
Tom W Clark	#12  Posted on 01/27/13 - 5:14 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	I agree, to each his own. I'm just offering my recommendation and explaining the reasoning.
Joe Kriz	#13  Posted on 01/27/13 - 5:39 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	There are right ways, and Not so right ways. To each his own may not be right or not so right. If it works for you and has smooth operation and lasts a long time, then great. Here is what I see from both photos. When my motor is straight ahead, the cables come straight out the front. Yours appear to be coming out the motor at a 45º angle when you motor isn't even turned. This has to put pressure on the cables and even more so when you make a turn to starboard. OMC always recommended a loop in the cables as I show in my photo. Unfortunately, I cannot get to the teleflex website to see if they recommend anything like that. Hopefully your cables will last a long time. Keep us informed if your cables crack near the motor or the shifting gets hard. Thanks for sharing the photo.
cwk6	#14  Posted on 01/27/13 - 8:07 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 175 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/04/11	Joe Kriz wrote: Yours appear to be coming out the motor at a 45º angle when you motor isn't even turned. This has to put pressure on the cables and even more so when you make a turn to starboard. Ya, I tried to address this in my description, they do in fact come out pretty straight, the motor is just turned to the left in the photo ( i forgot to straighten it and noticed after I posted) So far I am one full season on this setup with zero signs of wear so far. I agree the the loop in front of the motor is better for the cables. The reason I chose this route was that I liked the look of one hose running from tunnel to motor, and didn't care to have my cables separate. On boats like the sports and outrages, where the cables are coming from the side, i would second that the loop is the only way to rig. Either way, I still think enough slack for free movement when the motor turns and smooth bends are the only things that really matter.
Finnegan	#15  Posted on 01/28/13 - 12:48 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	Joe - With the boat in winter storage, these are the best photos I can offer of my Montauk rigging work. With the Teleflex XTREME cables, I have no issues at all, and the throttle/shift is very smooth and easy to work. http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/...7540875538 http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/...4593530232 In this last photo, you can see the chables rising verticall out of the "bundle" before entering the engine. There are no bends greater than 8" radius, even with the engine fully turned in either direction or tilted. http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/...8386168429 This past summer, a Whaler dealer told me this was the cleanest rigged Montauk he had ever seen. My intention was to make one bundle on the port side, since that was where the battery and nav lights already were located. The starboard side and splashwell are completely free of any cables, wiring, screw fittings, etc. The bilge pump discharge line is also in this group of cables, and dumps over the transom through a 90 degree plastic "L" fitting. I even pushed the battery back into the corner, to free up additional floor space. I custom fabricated the teak pad it sits on, because of the raise in the floor design. I am not a fan of putting the battery in the console, especially since mine is raised 6". Edited by Finnegan on 01/28/13 - 12:52 PM
Finnegan	#16  Posted on 01/28/13 - 1:14 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	While we are the subject of hwter to rig engine cables with a double loop, I haven't used that method on other Whalers either: 18 Outrage: http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/...0087979874 Classic Outrage 19: http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/...4738365265 Classic Outrage 21: http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/...5353136991 I apologize for this link, but Boston Whaler is not factory rigging their Mercs with a loop either, and seems to be doing it the way I am on this boat show 190 Nantucket/Outrage 190: (4th photo down) http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ceta...age71.html In all of this I think it is the new greatly improved low friction cables that allows all of this to happen. Edited by Finnegan on 01/28/13 - 1:19 PM
Joe Kriz	#17  Posted on 01/28/13 - 1:20 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Just for reference: Are you referring to TFXTREME cables? Is this what you have? http://www.teleflexmarine.com/product...me-cables/
Finnegan	#18  Posted on 01/28/13 - 3:01 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	Yes Joe - those are the ones. Guess I missed the "TF" prefix! I also used them when I retro fitted the Morst MT-2 control to my Outrage 25, where the cable lengths are 25' and 27'. The old control and new cables are incredibly smooth, inspite of the long length. They do have a slighly larger cable diameter, and are very heavy duty. I am completely sold on them, and find them better than Mercury's high end "Platinum" series. Highly recommended.
Derwd24	#19  Posted on 01/28/13 - 3:29 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	BRP's equivalent is the HE (High Energy) control cables, and have these same characteristics of being very smooth and also a little larger in diameter. One of the bonuses of using these cables is being able to eliminate the circular loop in favor of the S, as the loop introduces slack into the cables. Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
Perry Vayo	#20  Posted on 02/12/13 - 4:12 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 113 Comments: 1 Joined: 07/07/10	This is a great thread and has answered most of my questions, but I have two more. First, I am working on a 1969 Menemsha, so the console is taller than most other Whalers. The boat is running a 1984 90 VRO. I think, but I'm not sure that it is riggied with a Morse binnacle control. (Single T lever with trim switch in the handle. Unit is silver and top mounted right behind the windshield). So, it's well past time to replace the control cables and do some repair on the control itself. Is the best way to attack this by disconnecting at the engine and then pulling the cables and control box out at the helm? (I could pull a rope or string through at the same time for pulling the new cable back in.) It seems like this would be the way to get it all out - but I'm not sure. How can I ID the remote control? I need to replace a few worn parts on it and need a source for them, so I need to know what it actually is. Its definitely not original. Thanks for the feedback.