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Bow Light lamps
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| SSCape |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 6:16 AM
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Anyone know where I can find or even what lamp base will fit, or what I can retrofit to use for this old nav light fixture?
Final result also has to have the required lamp power.
[img]http://www.imgjoe.com/thumbs/navlight.jpg[/img]
Edited by SSCape on 05/13/11 - 6:19 AM |
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| theo |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 7:20 AM
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Perko and Ancor both make them. Amazon.com can get you there. I bought a couple in the local auto parts store - GE DE3021 - but they're low wattage, not Coast Guard approved.
Ted
1985 15' CC, 1994 60 hp Merc (Wednesday built), 5" jack plate |
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| theo |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 7:21 AM
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I meant to add, they're called "festoon bulbs".
Ted
1985 15' CC, 1994 60 hp Merc (Wednesday built), 5" jack plate |
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| SSCape |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 7:50 AM
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Great Thanks Ted!
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 10:22 AM
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The earlier style light takes a bayonet type bulb.
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=795
Here is the replacement bulb.
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=23
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| Guts |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 11:14 AM
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I have something to say about bow lights and sealing them. I have used this product after replacing the light bulb and finding a lot of corrosion inside the unit itself. This stuff was state-of-the-art back in the 70s but it really has some advantages. It stays soft, and mine has been in for just short of 20 years and it still soft, pliable removable and seals watertight but the main advantage is you can build it up around the light bulb so no water will ever touch the light bulb socket. It's very inexpensive and has been called everything from monkey poop to RV sealant. If anyone has a corrosion problem with their lights this stuff is well worth the for five bucks it costs. Just fill any void and you can make it like a volcano around the light bulb so the water will never enter that area ever again. Like I said it stays soft and pliable forever. By the look of the lens they might have made a attempt at using this sealant, but it's hard to tell by the picture. I would replace the light bulb then use this sealant filled up in the bottom of the bow light like a volcano around the light bulb. This has solved all my problems with corrosion in that pocket where the light bulb is attached. Which seems to catch water and corrode. some boat riggers use this product and I have seen it discussed on other boating forums. With positive reviews. It has not affected the plastic in any way.
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/B...click=7581
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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| SSCape |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 12:16 PM
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hmmm, very interesting Kim, especially since I just heard from Sue at Twin Cities Marine and she sent me a photo of the replacement for that, still chrome finished brass, only the GUTS pardon the pun have changed...and it's $145. I think I like your idea better..
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| Guts |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 12:25 PM
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SSCape wrote:
hmmm, very interesting Kim, especially since I just heard from Sue at Twin Cities Marine and she sent me a photo of the replacement for that, still chrome finished brass, only the GUTS pardon the pun have changed...and it's $145. I think I like your idea better..
I still have a brand-new one that I bought like 20± years ago. Back then it was expensive. I think I paid $75 for it. Anyway I have a backup if mine goes south. What I described work for me and I would use the same material. If I was to put the new one on just to protect the inside where corrosion occurs. Good luck
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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| SSCape |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 2:22 PM
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Well you made a good investment my friend, just about doubled your money. Thanks very much.
Edited by SSCape on 05/13/11 - 2:22 PM |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 3:09 PM
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Guts wrote:
SSCape wrote:
hmmm, very interesting Kim, especially since I just heard from Sue at Twin Cities Marine and she sent me a photo of the replacement for that, still chrome finished brass, only the GUTS pardon the pun have changed...and it's $145. I think I like your idea better..
I still have a brand-new one that I bought like 20± years ago. Back then it was expensive. I think I paid $75 for it. Anyway I have a backup if mine goes south. What I described work for me and I would use the same material. If I was to put the new one on just to protect the inside where corrosion occurs. Good luck
I'll give you $80 cash for it right now Guts! :-))))))))
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| Guts |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 7:23 PM
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I'll give you $80 cash for it right now Guts! :-))))))))
I bet you would, sorry not for sale
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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| SSCape |
Posted on 05/13/11 - 7:30 PM
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shoot, I'd give him $100. ;-)
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| zappaddles |
Posted on 05/14/11 - 6:49 AM
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SSCape,
Some months back I posted about using a Sylvania 1893LL bulb (readily available) with a bulb base purchased at Radio Shack. I had to insert the bulb base in a piece of tubing that fit in the fixture base (after first slightly enlarging the hole). Total cost was $5+-.
As my boat is a fresh water boat that is stored under shelter and covered with a tarp, corrosion isn't the concern for me that it might be for a boat that might be used in saltwater. Additionally, I'm not sure of the bulbss brightness; it is likely not up to OEM specs.
Zap
If you can't play hurt....stay home. |
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| zappaddles |
Posted on 05/14/11 - 6:58 AM
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SSCape,
Here is the post I spoke of.
I have some information that's a bit off subject but germane to bow lights.
While I had all of the parts for the bow light, on my 1970 Whaler the bulb holder was corroded and not functioning nor repairable (by me). So, in an effort to avoid spending the $$ I started a quest for a way to re-place the bulb base. At Radio Shack I found a "miniature bayonet Lamp Base with Solder Tabs" (part number 272-0355) that holds a Sylvania 4 watt bulb; 1893LL.
To make this work I had to drill the bow light bases existing hole to 1/2" and insert 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing that the lamp base then will slide in to. This is a friction fit. So, be careful when you do a bit of careful enlarging of the 1/2" hole to accept the lamp base once it is inside the clear vinyl tube. I then soldered the newly replaced bow light wire to the tabs of the lamp base and coated this connection with liquid electrical tape. Finally, in an attempt to stall the inevitable corrosion, I coated pretty much all of what I just assembled with di-electric grease.
This assembly won't hold up to regular salt water use but it might stand a chance against fresh water for a while.
Zap
If you can't play hurt....stay home. |
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| SSCape |
Posted on 05/14/11 - 7:56 AM
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That sounds great, and thanks for the part number. If I also use Guts' idea with yours I think it will hold up a while. I originally wanted it to be prefect and spec in every way but some of the big things I wanted to do have to wait now. $$$ (re-gel hull, rebuild fishing deck)
I will post before and after pics of the boat soon.
Thank you very much
Edited by SSCape on 05/14/11 - 7:57 AM |
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