brooks89 wrote:
For a few more $$ you can buy the Rulemate 750. 50% more pumping capability in the same size package as the 500.

Wiring tips: be sure to use adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors, then put heat shrink adhesive lined tubing over those, then for real belts and suspenders swab those with liquid electrical tape. Of course be sure everything works as it's supposed to before going through all that.

Tips for reliability: If you take the blue cover off the bottom of the pump you will see two screws that hold the pump together. Those self tapping screws are too fat for the posts they go into. (bad design, but it is what it is.) If tightened too much they will split those posts possibly reducing the clearance the magnetic float needs to move up and down and activate the pump. Check them and make sure the posts aren't split already. I've seen more than one that were.

Also, on curved wall of the float chamber you will see a small hole designed to allow air to bleed out as the water fills the float chamber. I recomend carefully and cleanly enlarging that hole just the slightest bit (like one more drill bit size than it is already) to more easily allow the air to escape.

finally A small squirt of detergent into the sump once in while cuts the oil and grease build up that can gum up the pump and float causing problems.

These pumps don't have the greatest reputation for long life and reliabliity but doing these few things can make them work much more problem free.

brooks89 wrote:
... then put heat shrink adhesive lined tubing over those, then for real belts and suspenders swab those with liquid electrical tape.

JMcCorison wrote:


Good quality adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors, properly installed, are sufficient. When applying heat, use a heat gun, not a cigarette lighter or butane torch. Evenly applied steady heat is required. Start from the center of the butt connector and move outwards to each end. Properly done you should have no air bubbles inside the connector. When properly shrunk you should notice a slight reduction in the length of the connector and you should see adhesive slightly oozing out of the joint. At this point remove the heat and let the connector air cool before securing.

In my opinion covering the butt connector with heat shrink tubing is not a good idea. First, a properly done heat shrink connection is more than sufficient. Second, if somebody can't get the butt connector heat shrink right, they probably won't get the heat shrink tube right either. And most importantly, the covering of the butt connector is translucent so if water intrudes and starts corroding, a visual inspection will show it.

Just my $0.02 worth.

brooks89 wrote:
SJNENG:

Sorry for the confusion. I saw Joe's comment about having the Rulemate 500, which uses an internal float switch... You have the cylinder-shaped Rule with the chip that turns on at intervals to check for water... I believe Rule makes a mounting bracket for that pump. Though that would still require screws. My solution was to fashion a small piece of teak that bridges the bilge well. It's screwed down with 3M sealant in the screw holes. The Rulemate pump fits perfectly in place by friction fit. I have room to pull the plug with it in place...

Joe Kriz wrote:
My solution was NOTHING...

There are enough wires in the tunnel to hold the Rule-Mate pump in place.
I put the steering cable and the throttle/shift cables right on top of the pump.
The pump never moved.

Many people prefer the Rule-Mate with the built-in switch because the pump does NOT come on unless the switch rises due to water. This saves battery life as opposed to the other Rule 500 that automatically turns itself on to sense for water. To me, that is senseless.... Why waste battery just to sense for water.

However, everyone likes what they like and have different reasons for using different types of equipment.