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Replacing Rubrail -- Two Things
blacksmithdog	#1  Posted on 07/09/13 - 3:37 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 417 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/26/06	I'm in the middle of ing-left:2px;padding-right:2px'>replacing my rubrail. Yesterday evening we took the rubrail out of its channel, drilled out the rivet heads, removed the channel, hammered the ing-left:2px;padding-right:2px'>rivets in flush, and cleaned the gunwale. This evening I drove the ing-left:2px;padding-right:2px'>rivets into the foam with a punch, we slightly countersunk the holes, and filled them with West System Six 10. Now for the two things: The West System Six 10 is the way to go. It's pricey, but it works really well for filling holes. I've tried to put epoxy in a syringe before, and it's not all that easy. So, when I drill the holes through the channel into the gunnel, should I shoot a little bit of marine caulk into each hole?
wing15601	#2  Posted on 07/09/13 - 5:23 PM
Member Posts: 699 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/12	I always use some ploy sulfide caulk on every fastener I put through the skin of my boat. I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
aeriksen	#3  Posted on 07/09/13 - 11:18 PM
Member Posts: 242 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/24/12	During replacement of my rub rail on a 1984 Outrage I applied 3M4200 on each rivet shaft before inserting and after setting the pop rivet I used any excess and smeared in into the top of the pop rivet head hole.