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How many coats of teak oil?
Monsoon	#1  Posted on 12/27/07 - 4:45 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 45 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/07	I have been in the process of restoring my '89 Outrage 18 for the past few months. I have taken all teak components off the boat, cleaned them, and sanded them down. Here's my little challenge: after applying eight coats of Starbright premium teak oil to all components, it still needs oil. I have applied very generous coats, left to soak in wood, and after a week, the teak is no longer shiny. It almost looks as though it hasn't been oiled. The wood just soaks the stuff up. Has anyone had similar experience? Is it the Starbright product or is this normal? I now need to go out and buy more teak oil. Mike
Joe Kriz	#2  Posted on 12/27/07 - 4:52 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	I think it is normal... Teak oil doesn't stay shiny for more than a few days. You just don't want the teak dry... The nice thing about oil, is you can always add a coat every week or month whenever it is needed. Too much oil and the wood will be sticky which you don't want especially on the RPS if you have one... I use Starbright Premium Golden myself but others prefer different brands...
Monsoon	#3  Posted on 12/27/07 - 5:04 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 45 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/07	Thanks Joe. I had researched the subject of teak oil and the Starbright Premium Golden product received excellent ratings. I will apply a few more coats and then install the teak components. Thanks again! Mike
Jeff	#4  Posted on 12/27/07 - 5:40 PM
Member Posts: 1987 Comments: 34 Joined: 04/02/05	I do 12 - 14 coats and polish the final coat. The coat stays in a semi gloss state for months. I will write up my process again and post it for you. I would stay away from starbright I have never had good results with it. The finish looks just down right poor after a week. I recommend either belhem or watco. Edited by Jeff on 12/27/07 - 7:58 PM 1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
MW	#5  Posted on 12/28/07 - 2:27 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	don't "over oil" or as Joe said, it weeps back out of the wood and gets sticky. mw
Jeff	#6  Posted on 12/28/07 - 5:28 AM
Member Posts: 1987 Comments: 34 Joined: 04/02/05	MW wrote: don't "over oil" or as Joe said, it weeps back out of the wood and gets sticky. mw - That is were using a lesser grade teak oil gets you in trouble. Here is how I learned to finish fine teak and mahogany furniture from one of my professors at art school. This should be used if you are finishing a new piece of wood or have stripped an old piece back down to new wood. First 4 coats should be done every 15 minutes with a Jersey-knit rag. The rag should be soaked and leaving a heavy coating each time. Let the wood sit for an hour. Second 4 coats should be done every 1 hour with a Jersey-knit rag. The rag should be soaked and leaving a heavy coating each time. Let the wood sit overnight in temps above 50 degrees. In the morning using a heavy terri-cloth rag remove any oil still on the surface. Last four coats should be done every 2 hours with a Jersey-knit rag. The rag should have a medium amount of oil on it just leaving a fine film of oil on each coating. After the last coating let the wood sit for 2-4 + hours. Go back after that time with a heavy terri-cloth and begin to work the excess oil on the surface of the wood to and matte - semi gloss shine. Let the parts cure for a day before getting the wet. If you can let them bake in the hot sun that is the best for curing. With this process my teak on my 22 outrage stayed in the matte - semi gloss state for the entire summer under a mooring cover. Edited by Jeff on 02/20/08 - 8:19 AM 1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
MW	#7  Posted on 12/28/07 - 9:06 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	I actually think that "Teak" is too much work for me, I use "Mahogony" and finish it with "Zar" marine rated "Polyurathane", more durable, less "Constant" work (for me), I just think it looks better. I prefer that "High Gloss" candied look on my bright work, I only have "teak" grab rails, can't "poly" them, so I hit it with teak oil twice a year, better old & Dry, I think it's more important to have a good grab rail that won't slip even if wet. It's easy to get "Off Balance", if you stand up in the 15' sport at speed. mw
Jeff	#8  Posted on 12/28/07 - 9:11 AM
Member Posts: 1987 Comments: 34 Joined: 04/02/05	Here is a photo of the finish I get after polishing the final coat of oil. [img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/22%20outrage%20Floor%20repair%20small_files/image038.jpg[/img] [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4688.jpg[/img] [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4689.jpg[/img] [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/22%20Outrage%20cleaning%207-07/DSCN4697.jpg[/img] 1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
Monsoon	#9  Posted on 12/28/07 - 4:52 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 45 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/07	Thanks for the replies guys. Your teak look great Jeff. I'm serously thinking about trying another product. Can I simply apply another brand of teak oil to the wood over the Starbright product or do I need to prep it? thanks again, Mike