Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Sand Blasting an engine, then paint
Posted by Zamboni65 on 03/24/10 - 3:21 AM
#1
I have a 1975 Johnson 70hp engine. It is painted white and looks like sh%t. I have just had the engine checked over and according to Lockeman's in Detroit the engine is in great shape with just a minor amount of work required. I am looking at painting the engine but thinking of renting a sand blaster from Home Depot to clean off the old paint first.
First question is this a good or bad idea?
Second question is there a specific paint I should use to repaint the engine?
Posted by joninnj on 03/24/10 - 5:13 AM
#2
I would approach this very carefully primarily because the sand can get into areas that you will not be able to completely clean out. Areas like the steering, power trim, joints on the lower end of the outboard. A better idea may be a good paint remover, an electric palm sander, high pressure water gun etc. I have done lower units like this.
Recommendations for paint should come the dealer. There are good marine paints out there but I not sure what is bests. Others on the site will have ideas.
Good luck
Posted by JohnnyCW on 03/24/10 - 6:13 AM
#3
Painting a durable finish on aluminum isn't easy. Even the dealer color matched paints chip off easy.
Aluminum requires a special etching primer. If you skip it, your new finish will probably start to peel pretty quickly.
Posted by John Fyke on 03/24/10 - 6:50 AM
#4
You need to put epoxy on raw aluminum.
Posted by Zamboni65 on 03/24/10 - 7:50 AM
#5
Well I did something really smart this morning ----- I called Lockemans's and asked them. Basically you do not want to sandblast it. They told me to sand it lightly to clean it up. Use a Zinc Cremate primer and then a factory paint from a spray can. Now the question I get to ponder is what color to paint it? Do I go with the factory original (White and Pee Green) or just all white or the new Silver - Engine is a 1975 70hp Johnson.
Posted by CES on 03/24/10 - 7:57 AM
#6
Zamboni. I've seen guys go both ways when it comes to the paint color. Personally I'd paint it a modern color and then use updated decals on your cowling. I think it would look pretty sharp if you went that way. Besides, newer decals are less expensive than the older decals as the older ones are more difficult to come by. Post pics when you get a chance.
Posted by Zamboni65 on 03/24/10 - 12:26 PM
#8
I am getting lucky my assistant in my office has a race car. She has a machine to make vinyl stickers so she is gong to make me a custom JOHNSON sticker. The Johnson E-TEC with the American flag behind it. Change the E-TEC to the 70 and I should be good to go. I like the idea of the all white engine. Thanks guys.
Posted by Derwd24 on 03/24/10 - 12:39 PM
#9
If you like that Etec graphic, see if you can find one of the Etec HO cowling, pretty sharp looking.
Posted by Eri on 03/25/10 - 7:14 AM
#10
Go with the 1973 Johnson Decal to give it an old school look.
Posted by Binkie on 03/25/10 - 8:45 AM
#11
I`ve repainted alot of outboards, Here is a picture of a `99 Johnson short shaft 25 I painted a couple of years ago, and used for a very short time, as the engine was worn out, and I traded it in on a new Merc/Tohatsu. The Johnson decal has an American flag behind it. I found it on E-Bay. I think they had the same decal with Evinrude too.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...hnson2.jpg
Posted by Binkie on 03/25/10 - 9:37 AM
#13
Sand blasting would be the worst thing to do to an outboard. I would recommend paint remover as a quick, easy and safe way to strip the paint off. I use aluminum aircraft stripper in aerosol spray cans from your auto parts store. Two needed. Spray it on, wait about 1/ hour to 3/4 hour, and then just spray it off with a pressure washer. I have an electric 2200lb. one. Wear long pants, long sleeve shirt and eye protection, as that stuff burns if you get it on your skin. Sometimes you will need to do it twice to get it all off. The zinc-chromite primer may or may not come off, but no matter. As zinc chromite primer is no longer on the market, (someone got cancer) you need to use etching primer (looks and smell the same, its green) from the same place you got the paint remover.After it is primed, the quality of the paint job is in direct proportion to your wallet. Automotive dual stage polyurethane or epoxy would be the best, I just use rattle cans of auto or outboard paint, still looks good, but won`t stand up to continuous Florida sun. Lacquer is fast and easy to use, but needs to be color sanded to get a good shine.
Here are some pics of removing the paint from a 7 1/2 hp Merc. PAGE 3 on my photobucket.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...r/?start=0