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OK we are getting close to final assembly for the spring. We have one, well maybe a few, problem. With the center console attached we have an issue getting the boat out of the garage. So we are thinking of putting heavy Stainless Steel Hinges at the front floor and a stainless steel hasp at the back to lock the CC in while moving. The idea is to tip the CC forward to get the boat in and out of storage.

I figure we will reinforce the load locations with some carbon and maybe a rubber pad under the CC for vibration.

If anyone has Positive or Negative input it would be great to hear.

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Have you checked out everything else before you go do something not necessary. My Montauk goes into the garage (Std 8' opening) just barely.. Can you lower the boat on the trailer?

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We are going to measure twice this coming weekend. We are just thinking this might be an interesting idea.

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let some air from the tires,
remove the grab rail and windshield?

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Do you trailor the boat? Essentially how often does she need to go in and out of the garage? U know like twice a year.... Maybe evn remove the garge door (if its an overhead) combined with the other suggestions (tires, windshield etc). Also rem u can get the ass end in and then drop the nose of the trailor down so the tongue is licking the ground in order to get the console and bowrail inside... Seems like alota work, but then again if you set it up right I suppose it would be pretty sweet to be able to tilt it up when ur anchored up fishing and just have all that much more working area to fish from... Wow now my brain's toying w/ the idea. lol

-Sean

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Sounds like a neat idea and might make working on the wiring easier. But I know my steering and outboard controls would NOT allow for that much play. mine fits in the garage without any problem, I keep it in there all the time. check out the second pic on my personal page.

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My 17' Outrage fits in the garage much easier since I accidentally caught the windshield breaking it off the console. Fortunately the windshield broke relatively neatly across the mounting bolt holes so all I had to do was trim about 2" from the bottom of the broken windshield and re-drill mounting holes. Now the windshield is level with the grab rail rather than slightly above as it came stock.

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Have you considered dropping the tongue on a dolly? That may get you the clearance you need to avoid the highest point (assume it is the windshield/Console rail.

Another suggestion is to make the console railing quick release with some hot dogs and pins. Same for the windshield. A Nantucket/Outrage 190 owner did this since he had LVL beam in his garage.

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I've thought about doing it to my 15' to give me access to the battery and tools and whatever else I store there. The rubber pad and reinforcing are good ideas. You might also think about using rubber tie downs like you see on the hoods of Mac trucks, Heeps (I mean Jeeps), etc. You can get various sizes and in stainless.

But does your console have its own floor? If so all you're gaining is clearance and I like some the other suggestions.

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My outrage goes in the garage during Hurricanes. The console could get under the door but used to interfere with the door motor and chain track. It used to be a problem until I installed a new garage door opener with a lower profile motor unit and now I have room for the console. Just a thought.

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If the Whaler doesn't fit in the garage.......time for a new garage

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Being a general contractor, I have some insight in the home. I would cut a console to have it hinged. I think you are asking for problems maybe while in rough water. I had a console some loose once on my nauset. Go to your local home depot or lowes or even a garage door retailer. Ask them about a zero clearence garage door. The door itself is in no way different but the track assembly is. These are installed in instances where a garage ceiling has maybe only 8 feet. It allows the door to tuck up even with the height of the garage opening. You could keep the same door just change the track. Just a word of advice.