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Does anyone know where i can get replacements?

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E -

Welcome to Whaler Central.

The Outrage 17 did not come with scuppers and the ones on your boat were probably added by a previous owner.

There are two styles, flap and ball. What type do you have? I have read for flap style, try turning the flap around.

see http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com...rains.html


When you get sorted, we would love to see photos of your beauty. You can build a personal page (like a personal web page) on this site and show her off. There are not many of us Outrage 17 owners.

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Also see this article for a modification:
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=73

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Actually Phil, that's not correct. The 1994 and 1995 Outrage 17s came from the factory with scuppers in place of the outboard transom drains in the earlier hulls. Mine has them and the design is a sore point if you ask me. The design of the drain tube allows water into the foam and with a heavier motor like my Mercury 4-stroke on the transom, they are underwater at rest.

I do like them better then the regular drains though as they work well when underway and do seem to allow rain water to drain when the boat is on the mooring.

The tubes have check balls inside them and flaps on the outside. The problem with the tubes is that they are two piece and don't mechanically join. They're just joined with some marine sealant. When that poor join fails water enters the foam.

In my boat the tubes were removed along with the wet foam surrounding them. The holes were lined with thickened epoxy and the tubes reinstalled with lots of sealant. Therefore if the sealant fails the water can't reach the foam. I suggest all 1994-1995 Outrage 17 owners check this issue. I wouldn't be surprised if other models had a similar problem as well.

- Chris

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Chris -

Thanks for the correction. This is important information!

I am always learning from you!

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Hi Phil,

No worries, a minor detail. I can't find any pics of my boat showing the scuppers, but I did find this picture of a '94 online, showing the port scupper: http://claspics.com/237/297463/126616...full-image
Also of note is that the '94+ (not sure about the '93s) hulls left the factory with plastic thru hulls in place of the earlier brass ones. I replaced my bilge drain with a new plastic one and the two splash well and anchor locker ones with Perko heavy duty bronze units. I'll have to see if I can locate some pictures, they look great.

- Chris

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Chris, you're right on the mark with your comments. I've got a 115 ETEC which is about as much weight as you want to add. Did you have any problems removing the through hull scuppers? Any tips?
Also, I leave the boat in the water during the season and have problems with barnacles an mussels growing in the scuppers and preventing them from closing- I paint them with antifowling paint but its still not doing the trick.

Do you know who makes those scuppers ( at the very least the rubber flaps need replacing.

Thanks

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I guess the name on the rubber flap is hard to read in the article I linked to above.

The flap in the photo does read "PERKO"....

Not sure if yours are the same or not.

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115 E-tec? Nice! I think it actually weighs a little less then my '04 Merc 90hp 4-stroke (386 lbs). My battery is in the console, which helps keep weight out of the stern. Phil's Yamaha F115 weighs slightly more again then my motor at just over 400 lbs I believe. My boat does fine with the heavy Merc back there, but the weight gives the bow a light feeling at times and I certainly wouldn't want much more weight back there.
As for the scuppers: They could be a bit difficult to remove. The four screws that hold the scupper flap and ring on the outside also secure the thru hull itself. The inside part of the thru hull is simply held in place by marine sealant. You just have to find a way to gently separate the two parts of the thru hull. It's basically a matter of breaking the sealant's bond. It will take some time and patients to extract the wet foam surrounding the thru hulls and make sure it's dry in there before lining the hole with thickened epoxy. You will have to use a spatula and/or your fingers to spread the epoxy. Also, you'll probably have to allow the first layer of epoxy to cure and then apply another layer or two to insure there are no uncoated areas. Once that has cured, you will have to smooth the inside of the hole to allow the thru hull to be reinstalled. Use LOTS of a good quality sealant like Boatlife "Lifecaulk" when reinstalling the thru hulls.
Another option would be to completely replace the scupper/thru hulls with something different. I couldn't find anything that I felt would work better then the factory setup as I wanted to retain the self bailing function.
I'm quite sure all the factory thru hulls in the '95s are Perko parts. Whaler used Perko plastic thru hulls up until a couple years ago. I believe the flaps can be purchased directly from Perko.
I've had problems with the scupper flaps getting fouled with marine growth as well. My only solution has been to remove the boat from the water frequently enough to prevent the growth from developing that far. For me that's not a problem in the summer as I occasionally trailer the boat to different places, but in the fall it tends to sit at the mooring as I'm not usually traveling. The only other way I've found to keep the scuppers work well is to clean them periodically with my finger or a tool like a screwdriver.

- Chris