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First of all let me say hello and thanks for a great forum.

I have the opportunity to buy a 13 foot whaler with a good solid trailer for 700.00

The boat has the blue interior which is in good shape. Some of the wood is missing and the rest would need to be refinished.

The exterior of the boat is also in good shape with the exception of what I would call significant crazing in the gelcoat above the water line and some pitting of the gelcoat below the water line.

It currently has a 9.9 hp electric start Yamaha on it. I could get the boat, motor and trailer for 1200.00

My plan is to redo the woodwork myself and to add a larger motor with console steering.

An alternative plan would be to buy the boat and motor and use it as is.

I would of course take the boat for a test drive before making the deal.

My questions are:

1. If I do not repair the crazing and pitting, will continuing to use the boat cause a significant damage over a period of a season or two?

2. What is the estimated materials cost to re-gelcoat the outer hull if I do it myself?

3. What is the estimated materials cost to paint the the outer hull if I do it myself?

4. Does this sound like a good deal?

Thanks for the help and again this is an awesome forum. You guys have some beautiful Whalers.

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If the boat is dry, not waterlogged with water in the foam, you are off to a good start. The work can progress as you have the time and funds, and ability. Cost is not a big thing, as it will be spread out over a period of time. Crazing cracks are only cosmetic. If you find the boat is waterlogged, walk away fast. many people buy waterlogged boats thinking it is no big deal, and find that they are into a nightmare. Its not worth putting money into it, and removing, draining the foam, makes even a free boat not worth it. The easiest way to tell if it is waterlogged, is to remove the engine and lift it. An average adult should be able to lift each rear corner, and the bow. One average male should be able to turn it over. I found a 13 footer once that I could not even get one corner off the ground. If the boat is in the water, notice how it sits. Is it sitting abnormally low in the water at the stern. Good luck with your project.

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Thanks for the reply Binkie! Your 13' looks great.

Do you think the price is reasonable?

Should I go ahead and buy the boat with the Yamaha 9.9 for 1200?

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Check it out as specified earlier to ensure it is not waterlogged. If the boat is not waterlogged and is in decent shape and If the 9.9 runs good then go ahead and get it. The 9.9 if it runs good could be resold for 700 to 800. Thereby the boat and trailer could cost you less than 700 problem is you need to advertise the 9.9 and go through the hassle of selling it. If you do not want to deal with reselling the 9.9 then do not get it. That boat can handle up to 40 hp a 9.9 on that boat is way underpowered.

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I gave $1100.00 for my 13' sport. It sounds like close to what you are talking about. I did get a 35 hp Johnson with mine. My boat also has the spider lines in the gelcoat. I dont regret at all what I paid. As stated above, I am just taking my time getting the boat ready. I dont intend to bring it back to showroom standards because this will be a working boat. I plan to do a center console on it. It will be for fishing, castnetting, and pulling crab traps. Also pulling the kids on a tube. My boat is solid with dry foam, and I think I can make a great little boat out of her.

George Corbin
13' sport 1966, 1977 35 hp Johnson

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Just remember it's a boat and not a piano. It's an old boat at that.

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I have a (1966) 13 too, and also am wondering about the costs of Awl-gripping the hull, inside and out, if I can maintain the blue using a tinted Awlgrip, and if it is a job that the average boat owner can reasonably tackle. Cost and difficulty (I was quoted $2k locally) prohibit a new gelcoat. Any input from fellow members?

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Welcome. Do a search on here for Awlgrip. Your question has been asked many times. You will need a quart for the exterior hull and a quart for the interior.

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Adding to labCabs post. In addition to the quart of top coat for the interior and qt. for the interior, since AwlGrip is a two part poly paint you also need 2 qts of activator, either brushing or spraying, and one qt. of reducer. Add to that two quarts of AwlGrip primer which is an epoxy, and two quarts of activator and one qt. of reducer. It all adds up to a considerable cost. Don`t forget you also need a gallon of automotive degreaser, and wax remover to wipe down the boat immediately before spraying each time to prevent fisheyes. that alone is about $25

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Half this site just read your comment and thought "exactly, dburton, that's why he has to get it and restore it as close to original as possible!", lol.