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I thought about using sandpaper to polish the stainless rails and progressively move up to about 1200 grit or so. Does anyone see a reason why I shouldn't do this?

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No.

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Great, thanks.

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Try a Goggle search for how to sand stainless to get some tips on methods and grits.

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I use "Bon Ami" cleanser (for over 100 years, it has'nt scratched yet) !

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Never Dull works great too and one can will last a long time.

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The 1200 grit will still leave a slight haze on the stainless. To get a mirror finish, use progressively finer sand paper up to 600 grit. After the 600 grit paper, follow with an emory compound (usually black) on a sisal wheel. For the final buff, use a stainless steel compound (usually white) on a spiral sewn buff.

Raymond

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Flitz applied then buffed with their drill-mounted chamois-wheel is great for heavier cleaning. For minor stains/waterspots Nevr Dull is good.

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I have had excellent results using FLITZ. Try it you will be extremely happy with this product. Good Luck

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I agree...FLITZ is wonderful. I use it on my rails and on all of my marinium parts. Brings everything up to a very nice shine.

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I have had great success using Wenol Metal Polisher.

Regardless of which product you try (many people have had good success with a number of products), I would strongly suggest you try a metal cleaner/polisher before you determine if sandpaper is the way to go.

I would also suggest you consider the finest level (000 or Triple Zero) steel wool before sandpaper.

Dan

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I would advise against using sand paper as a polishing media. Regardless of grits used you will ultimately leave very fine micro scratches in the finish. Unless you are looking for a brushed or satin type finish for your railings. With time and exposure oxidation will become more noticable because of the micro fine scratches left by the sanding. I would go with the polishing compounds and try to achieve the best possible mirror finsh you can. Alot of elbow grease and rags but, you'll be satisfied at the end.

Angel

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I just built a 5' all-round light using a 5 foot piece of mill finished stainless tubing. I started with 180 grit, and worked up to 800 grit, and finished with some polishing compounds. After many, many, hours, I reached a mirror finish, no scratches. As long as you sand long enough, with finer and finer grits, it does not matter how coarse a grit you use to start out with.

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Metal fabrication shops sand and grain stainless steel every day, [i.e.. restraint hoods] and such.
I see no reason why it can't be done. But I would do this as a last resort, after trying softer polishes first.

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I have great success with a buffing wheel and rouge (sp?) on my bench grinder to polish stainless. After polishing, I clean off the residue and apply wax.

For upkeep I use never-dull.

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This past January, I started to clean up the stainless steel railings (bow & side) for my 15 foot Whaler. After about a week of trying Never Dull, my arms got tired. I visited the local hardware store and I purchased two cloth wheels that is attached to an electric drill and used a "white" rogue. It took me one weekend to polish the railings. I don't have any photos, but the railings is for a 1976 boat that was in storage (covered) for the past 15 years. A mechanic that saw the railings "before" and "after" was impressed. Hopes this helps.

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I've had good luck with Starbrite Chrome & Stainless Polish.

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One caution.. One above post mentioned steel wool. It works great but it is very difficult to clean up all the little pieces of steel after polishing. The steel left behind will rust and stain the gel coat if not removed.

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I use steel wool of various grades along with metal polish to polish and recondition stainless steel.

It is a good point to mention that steel wool leaves behind many alot of metal dust that are prone to rust.

I only use steel wool when I am able to remove the stainless component from the boat and I am able to work on the piece in my basement or garage. Even if you are working near the boat, a strong breeze can still blow the steel wool dust onto your boat.

Bronze wool is best used when polishing stainless while still on the boat.

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In my opinion steel wool should never be used to clean stainless.

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Steel wool does work great. I did not remove the the rail from the boat, that was my mistake. I just thought I would throw that out there based on a life lesson I had.

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Steel wool does work great until some gets embedded in the stainless, then rust. I would use stainless steel wool or brass wool.

We had a corrosion expert teach a week long class at work and he was the one that recommended this. Once it gets embedded in the stainless, the rust can spread.

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Scotch-bite pads are common is fabrication shops

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Scotch-bite pads are great, just stay way from bearings, the dust from the pads can cause failures.

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I have a stainless prop that I have used Never dull on and I cannot seem to get a shiny lutser on it. Should I use a buffing wheel on it to get it to shine nicely?

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That would be a start cliff. To make it shine you have to smooth the surface before you polish. That is what all the sanding talk is about above. you will have to work up to a really fine abrasive be it wet sanding or polish on a wheel.

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Thanks bake.

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Get yourself a can of Neverdull....its cotton wadding embedded with a stainless polish....its awesome....and one can will last years.