Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by modenacart on 12/07/09 - 1:45 PM

In the OEM photo section, it shows a brass norman pin, I was under the impression it was chrome plated. If it was chrome plated, why is an unplated brass one shown.

http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=335

Thanks,

Edited by Tom W Clark on 12/07/09 - 1:56 PM

Posted by Tom W Clark on 12/07/09 - 1:57 PM

Whaler did not start chroming the norman pins until some time in the late 1980s.

Before that, they were raw brass which took on a nice patina with age.

Posted by frstevec on 12/09/09 - 1:41 PM

I tried to straighten mine and it broke easily. I don't know if heat would let it straigthen. If it not too bent,
Id leave it - polished.

Posted by modenacart on 01/02/10 - 8:40 AM

Bent the pin back to almost straight. It surprised how strong the threads were, almost no damage. Only problem was I scrapped off some of the patina. I am thinking trying this to get the patina back. http://www.oillampparts.com/patina.htmlatina.html

Edited by modenacart on 01/03/10 - 9:33 AM

Posted by modenacart on 01/02/10 - 9:17 AM

I have them in a hopper for cleaning brass shells to reload. If that doesn't do I what I want it to, then I will try the Brass O. The hopper has done wonders with the other hardware that still has the chrome plate on it.

I don't know how long it takes to patina if I just wait, I don't like the look of the polished brass.

Posted by Tom W Clark on 01/02/10 - 9:21 AM

#10

There are hundreds of different patina recipes for brass and bronze. I own a very expensive hard-bound book with nothing but different thermo-chemical recipes for the darkening of brass and bronze.

But what I use 99 times out of 100 is a product known as JAX Brown:

http://www.shorinternational.com/Oxid...lorant.htm

The last norman pin I cleaned up had marks left from a pair of vise grips. I chucked the two half pins in my drill press and used sandpaper to take out all the marks. I then dipped it in JAX BRown and in seconds, it looked like it had been on the water for years.

Posted by Tom W Clark on 01/02/10 - 10:02 AM

#13

Use whatever grit you need to remove the marks you have but move up through progressively finer grits. I end up with 1200, which is as fine I have laying around.

With the pins chucked in the drill press, it takes only seconds to get the surface as fine as that grit of paper or cloth will take it.

The "stud" is nothing but all-thread. The newer pins use stainless steel. Just buy what you need at the hardware store.

For chucking the pins in the drill press I used a machine screw of the correct thread size with cut the head off.

Thread the screw into the pin and chuck the shank of the bolt in your drill press or lathe and away you go. The rotation of a drill press or lathe will self-tighten the pin on the threads so you don't need to worry about that.

Posted by modenacart on 01/02/10 - 3:21 PM

#15

Didn't have a drill press, so I just clamped my drill in a wood clamp and the results were great! I started with 80 grit, 100, 220, 320, 400, 600 then 800, only because that was what I had. It took a while to get the marks out with the 80 but it was worth it. My wife wasn't as excited about the results as I was.

Posted by modenacart on 01/02/10 - 3:25 PM

#16

Tom W Clark wrote:

The "stud" is nothing but all-thread. The newer pins use stainless steel. Just buy what you need at the hardware store.

Are there no concerns with dissimilar metal corrosion with stainless and brass?

I also noticed a lot of run-on torque in the end peices. Is this the way the are manufactured or did they use some sort of lock tight?

Edited by modenacart on 01/02/10 - 3:26 PM

Posted by Tom W Clark on 01/02/10 - 4:58 PM

#17

I wouldn't worry about stainless in bronze, but use brass if it concerns you.

You must use a thread lock like Lok-Tite, as the factory did when the boat was new. Use the medium strength so it will be removable in the future.