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I apologize if this is a repeat discussion, I can't seem to locate a previous discussion.

I thought maybe my batteries were dead when attempting to lift the motor while getting ready to pull the boat to the water. I noticed "click" when I engaged the up or down trim button, same for the button on the console.

After some other consideration, I elected to try the ignition. I was surprised to hear the motor jump wanting to turn over right away. Ok, not the batteries.

I checked w/some other sources who said to use the relief valve and lift the motor up, then turn it shut and go fishin. Easier said than done.

The motor dropped instantly, but after multiple attempts, did finally come up past the point when it was. OK, I turned the relief valve shut, and let go of the motor, and down it went, numerous times.

I am now disappointed that I'm there's a possibility the trim motor is TU.

The short history with my turn key purchase from last year, is that recently this summer I found an illegal crap pot the hard way. It caused a leak in the trim line (crack) and after a few hundred dollars for a $39 line installed, I ran without issues the rest of the summmer/early fall.

I was told when that trim line was replaced a fee for replacing fluids etc was required to drain and flush the lines.

There's currently no visible trim leak, and without the motor staying up after manual manipulation, I'm totally lost-and clearly not on the water.

I'm all ears.....

Thank you

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If the trim motor is running then make sure the screw at the relief valce is not leaking and is secure. Then check to make sure that the fluid levels are adequate. If you cannot hear the motor running then you will probably have to replace the trim motor, which is not very dificult to do.

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No trim working, just the clicking, which I've traced to be coming from the two solenoids. I do see one of 5 wires, that appears not connected to anything on the solenoids, possibly a ground that rotted off? Would that still make them click when engaged?

I'm baffled on lifting the motor manually, but the relief valve allowing it to fall freely, even with it closed. Fluid levels will have to be checked, but that's not explaining the click or free falling motor.

If necessary, I'm hoping the motor replacement is as you mention-not hard (or expensive) to do.

Thanks,

Kevin

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You certainly need a ground wire attached to something. While having someone hold the trim switch, try touching that loose wire to the block and see if that makes the trim motor run.

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the click you hear would be the relay pulling in. that should mean the problem is the motor is froze up or the wire you speak of is not allowing the fire to get to the motor. I think there should be only two wires coming off the motor. a hot and a ground find them and jump twelve volts to one of them, ground the other. If it runs it is a wiring problem if not the brushes in the motor are not allowing the motor to operate.

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Use "Caution" when working with the back trim switch on the engine, "THE FINGERS" or "Hand" can get pinched if you get too involved in your work, use the remote box switch up front.

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If you have juice and you hear the relays clicking, try the simplest fix first: Use a plastic hammer or the handle of larger screw drive to tap the trim motor a few times. Or even tap the transom mount near the motor. Older trim motors can develop "sticky" spots and the vibration may free it up.

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I believe it will depend on where clicking is coming from, If it is the motor, Bake may be right. It may also be the solenoid inside the engine under the cowl below the ignition box. This may have rubber cover in it. There is a way to test it but I can not remember how. I have a 90 Yamie as well. Unfortunately if the trim motor is bad and needs to be be replaced the engine will need come off the boat....:-(

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In July I went through the power trim troubles you seem to be having. I have a Yamaha 115.
As previous people have said, the click is the solenoid. No other sound says the power trim motor is not working. My mechanic fixed the motor. Replaced brushes in the top of it. If you need a new motor it is probably a $400. part. The engine did not have to come off the boat to do the repair.
My motor would not stay up when I tilted it up manual using the bleed screw. It was either full up with the travel lock on or full down. (I spent two weeks trimming the boat with gas cans and people)
My trim motor is on the left (port) and the fluid reservoir is on the right of the power trim unit. Make sure you have fluid in the reservoir. Mine had fluid and water. Booo.

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Thanks everyone so far for your help. I will try the rubber hammer tap (to the trim motor), but will need to check the fluids, as the relief valve thing has me concerned. Closed or open, the motor stays down even when I lift it up and let it fall freely. the solenoids do click (for up and down switching) and nothing moves.

I did put a block of wood under when I lifted it up but it's too close to the trim line for me to feel comfortable towing it like that.

Hopefully bleeding the lines and maintaining the fluids and a successful hammer tap will at least get me a few trips before I shut it down for the winter.

So much for spending some cash on the bow cushion and Garmin 530 in the off season.

Thanks again for your help guys.

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There is a procedure in Yamaha Service manual to check out the trim pump/motor while removed. With caution you could do the same while installed. Disconnect the two wires going to motor and power from a battery. Motor should run and pump it up or down, reversing the leads should it run and go the opposite direction. That was from 2000.