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I wanted a Whaler since 1980. I'm finally able to get one, I just need to know what are some things I should check for before I pull the trigger on this.

I have not seen the boat yet but they seem to be pretty straight over the phone about the boat.

Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. I'm looking forward to joining the B.W. family. I love this site.

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Check the download section. there is a whaler inspection document. It gives you a lot of info and questions to ask. Personally, look at the boat. Is it clean and does it look well cared for? Check for original equipment, especially the RPS. Wood can be refinished, cushions replaced but the missing parts are often hard to come by.
Does the boat have bottom paint? It can hide a lot of issues, take a careful look for damage, either from running up on the beach or trailer damage, check the thru hulls. A 1979 boat should have had them changed at least once. If not, and the boat was left in the water, you could have some wet foam.
What year is the engine? You should have a mechanic look at the outboard, and do a compression check on the engine, if you don't do one yourself. If the engine is older, assume you will need to replace now, or shortly and price accordingly.

If you go to view the boat, take a lot of photos. It is amazing how your memory plays tricks on you. For most folks, the camera doesn't lie.

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ENGINE ! Most of any boat's value is directly linked to the age of the motor, it's helpful if you can bring a friend who know's about boats when you look. Take the check list that Kamie suggested with you, if you can't bring a friend, we can review it before you buy.

Hint: If you see something that look's good, and want to buy it, 1) Keep thy mouth shut on it's location (or risk getting "Whaler Jacked"). 2) Move fast or risk losing the sale 3) Declare yourself "Insane" for making the purchase, and pinch yourself in disbelief that it's in the driveway.
Good Luck !

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The inspection document is very good, and I would never buy another whaler without using it.

One thing to add- You should, of course, look over every inch of the bottom of the hull for any gouges, cracks, scars, chips, etc. where any fiberglass cloth or mat has been exposed. If you see anything that looks like it might be more than just cosmetic, then when you do your sea trial (and I wouldn't buy a boat without one) wait an hour or so after pulling the boat from the water, and see if any of those spots are dripping or seeping water.

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I didn't expect to put $500 into the trailer when I got mine, so take a good look at that component if you plan to tow her.

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A little personnel experience, if it has a below deck fuel tank, you might want to check it out and make sure it is sound. A leaking tank in an Outrage will cost you money and headaches.

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thanks for the responses,had to work late today missed the chance to go check out the montauk.plan on taking friend who owns a '67 version i think he's more excited than me about me getting a chance at this boat. by the way what is"RPS"

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Reversible Pilot Seat = RPS
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=775

The Montauk was first made in 1973...
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=14

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Pay the money to have a shop inspect the engine if you don't know how to yourself. Also, a good indicator of the lower unit is if there is water in the oil. I would shift the lower unit in and out of gear several times. Spin the prop and listen for any noise. Tilt the engine up and down several times. Shift lower unit in and out of gear several times. Spin prop in again to listen for noise.

I though I knew what I was doing and 20 hours later, rebuilt power head, ten hours after that, rebuilt the lower unit. Pretty painful lesson.

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again thanks for all of the responses.finally got to check out the boat looks good outside dead battery so going to wait till saturday to run her.needs a few little things teak has faded hull needs waxing to bring back that whaler luster.trying not to get too excited,but i know friday nite is going to be along one.

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Tom: Here's something we missed when we bought last March.
The Montauk we bought came with a 2 stroke, NOT oil injected motor. We would not buy a boat with this motor again
When you first start this type of motor it smokes. It smokes a lot. If you are around other boaters when you start the engine you will find it embarassing. (It doesn't smoke once you are up and running)
An oil injected 2 stroke smokes but not as much.
4 strokes don't smoke, are cheaper to run and are quiet.
We didn't get the motor checked out. Getting the water impeller replaced and fixing the power tilt cost us $2,000.
We love our Montauk!!!!!!!!!

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well pulled the trigger and got the montauk.thre are few little things to do getting back into tip top shape ,but right now it's ok for fishing.hopefully we'll get on the water sunday after church for a few hours.thanks for the helpful responses.feels great belonging to the B.W. family.

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bccanucker,
This is mis-information.
The new 2 strokes like E-Tec, don't smoke, are cheaper to run and are quiet....

I cannot let things like this continue as too many people are comparing the older 2 stroke technology with the 4 strokes.
We need to compare the new 2 strokes with the 4 strokes which are now basically the same as you mention except that the 2 strokes don't have nearly as many moving parts, don't need regular service like the 4 strokes, don't have any belts, etc....

Everyone, Do Not compare the 4 strokes to the older 2 strokes... The older 2 strokes are almost dead anyways....

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Joe: You are totally right. My bad.
I was only thinking of the older 2 strokes cause I'm stuck with one.
Interesting that when I've been out new motor shopping not one dealer has talked to me about buying a new 2 stroke

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bcccanucker,

Yes, many people don't seem to think about the new clean 2 strokes.
Mercury, Yamaha, and Evinrude, just to name a few are making clean, quiet fuel efficient 2 stokes that are CARB3 rated.

I think the main thing we have to look at these days is the CARB rating of the motor.
The cleanest CARB rating at this time is CARB3..
Even some 4 strokes are not clean enough to earn the CARB3 rating yet several newer 2 strokes are CARB3 rated so these new 2 strokes are cleaner than some 4 strokes.

The old 2 stroke technology is just about dead and being fazed out by many manufacturers.
In California, we cannot even buy any new (old technology) 2 strokes as it is illegal to sell them new here.
California only allows the sale of new motors that meet a certain CARB rating and these are 4 strokes and the newer technology 2 strokes.

Hope this helps others in comparing new engines to new engines.

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I think I got one of the last of the old 2-smoker's (04' Johnson 50 h.p) left over in '05. It does'nt smoke too much but, I think it "might" have borrowed some "E-tec" exhaust design, as it is "Much" quieter than my old '87 48 spl.