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Question: I don't use my boat that frequently unfortunately (Once every 3-4 weeks) so it ends up sitting for 3 weeks between uses. I have been disconnecting the fuel line each time I haul it out of the water and letting it run dry so i don't get carburator build up etc. Is this a good practice? Usually if I have the boat in for a weekend, I don't do it at the end of the day knowing I am going to run it the following day...but if it isn't going to run for a few weeks...I usually disconnect and run dry. Anyone do something simiilar? Is this hard on the engine?

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I used to do it all the time until this season. It won't hurt your engine at all and is a pretty sound practice, especially if you're not sure when you're going to use the boat again.

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Put a little bit of "Sea Foam" in the fuel tank, it has a fuel preserver in it, as well as other additives preventing "gumming" in the carb. Use it all the time for trouble free start up.

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Back in the 90's, the use of my Outrage was unpredictable for a couple of years and sometimes it sat longer than I thought it would between outings. Unfortunately it resulted in me having to have the carbs on my 115 Merc serviced and rebuilt a few times. I've used STA-BIL fuel stabilizer since about 2000 and never had a problem since. I've not done any research to see if the use of STA-BIL has consequences but I've either been dumb lucky or the stuff works very well at helping prevent a lot of the problems I had in the past. I use it in my gas cans for my lawn equipment and generator as well.

I haven't gotten around to using the marine formula of STA-BIL because I had a large quantity of the original to burn through which is now about done.

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I recently was in a discussion on a local fishing fourm where I was told that was a bad practice. They said that the engine was starving for lubrication and could be damaged. I was a little concerned but a little confused you see I have a 1974 9.9 Hp Merc that my dad bought new and he always said to run it out of fuel at the dock. Once after being stored for 15 years it started with the second pull and to this day has never had any carb work or added cleaners put to it. While working on the Whaler for 2 years when I finally got it ready for water I found the previous owner had not drained the carbs so it was pretty gummed up. It went to a independant outboard mechanic upon return I noticed the fuel line removed and the carbs were run dry. The little Merc is 35 yrs old with no spun bearings or thrown rods so I will continue to do as my dad taught me.

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Run the carbs dry. My dad always did as well. Never ever a problem. Matter of fact as my old outboard would start to starve for fuel I always pulled the choke half closed and this would allow the engine to really drain the carb bowl.

Norm

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Fellas, it depends on *WHAT* outboard we are talking about here. Running the fuel out every time you use the boat can be disastrous on some motors.

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For any span a week a week or more, I run the engine dry. Like Bob’s dad, mine taught me to always flush the engine and run it dry (and also pull the choke) if it is going to sit for a while. It’s just part of my routine - my wife says it’s my OCD kicking in. All I know is that I haven’t had any issues with the motor since it was purchased in 1981 – starts every time.

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I've been reading this thread with interest. My dad always did this.

Tom can you elaborate on WHICH outboards that this should not be done.

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I don`t see how running the engine dry can hurt any outboard or engine for that matter. A 2 stroke won`t loose lubrication as the engine does not run without oil in the gas or in the tank. The engine simply runs out of gas and stops. same in a four stroke. Same in your car, or your lawn mower or weed wacker or whatever.
I have done this since the beginning of time with no bad results. with outboards.

Recently I let my 13 footer sit for 3 months with its 25 4 stroke. The gas in the tank smelled OK and I didn`t see any water separation, but it had turned the color of urine. I dumped the gas into my car, pumped out the fuel lines into a jar and changed the water separator. I didn`t want to run that stuff through my new outboard, but since I had run it dry, I knew there was no gas in the fuel rails or injectors.
Started right up almost instantly on new gas. Not saying the yellow gas was "bad", my car is still running too.
I would like to know what engines Tom thinks will be hurt by this practice. I never had to have any carbs cleaned in my life.

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I also do this and always have on my Johnson's, Evinrudes, and now my Merc. Since the gas has such a short lifespan now. I was thinking of setting up a shutoff for my Mercruser v8 on my larger boat to run it dry. I trailer both of them and sometimes don't use them for a few weeks at a time. I also plan on draining the fuel system and tanks completely on both for the winter.

Tom what engines is this harmful to?

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The reason it can be a problem is because the cylindars might not all run out of gas at the same time and the first one out runs a few strokes in a lean condition. Which causes heat and lack of lubrication.

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I have never done it on a 4 stroke, but every 2 stroke that I have ever owned, I always did it and never had any problem whatsoever by doing it...........I always did it with either muffs on or the motor still in the water.

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Yea, it's not likely to do anything, but I was just passing on the theory as I heard it.
It would be a big problem if every motor that ran out of gas burned up. lol

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I know when I ran my Merc 115 out of gas on the trailer with muffs, it would idle up significantly the last 30-45 seconds before actually completely quiting. This would indicate a lean mixture to me which in itself increases cylinder temperature then throw in the fact that if its running lean, its not getting the oil it should at that speed. Probably not too detrimental a few times but perhaps as a regular practice, there could be some worry.

I don't do it as a regular practice with my motors but my dad always did. Does it run the carb bowls completely dry? Seems to me some fuel would remain anyway.

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Some residual fuel always remains when you run the carbs dry. You're correct about the engine running at a higher RPM when it's about out of gas. This isn't a problem at all becuase you're not at a higher RPM and also it's not running lean for an extended length of time. The short time the motor is running lean isn't enough to get the EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) high enough or long enough to cause ANY damage at all. Outboard motors are much tougher than that.

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Thanks all for the replies, my dad taught me this and with our old outboards we did this frequently, but I wasn't sure with new outboards. I have a 2007 Yami 90TLR (Repowered with a 2 Stroke) Just wanted to make sure i wasn't causing any issues...Thanks again to everyone for the replies.

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Running an outboard dry is almost universally not recommended by manufacturers.

It is a big no-no on oil injected motors and EFI motors that use a fuel pump should not have their fuel pumps run dry either.

Old-fashioned conventional two strokes do not much care one way or the other, though you end with less lubrication of the cylinder walls and crank during storage if you run it dry.

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I've never monitored the EGT of any of my outboards but I was involved in kart racing for many years. I can tell you from first-hand experience it is possible to raise the EGT a couple hundred degrees in just a few seconds with a lean running condition even at idle speed with at least some 2-stroke engines. The larger mass of most outboards likely help keep that in check for short periods but I believe its noteworthy while on the subject.

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Have to agree with Tom. It's not recommended to run electric fuel pumps with out fuel even for a short period. Same with fuel injectors. Fuel helps to cool and lubricate both. The vapor separators should have a drain as most carbs have. May be other issues on on some 2-strokes with injection?

Did the same thing after every use with small Chrysler OBs years ago. To get the most gas out of the carbs I'd keep it running by using the choke just prior to quitting.

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Is a 1984 Yamaha 90 Oil Injected 2 Stroke motor considered an "Old fashioned conventional motor"? Though the author didn't mention his type of OB in this thread, it is listed in his PP.

When I had a 1984 Evinrude 115hp OB, I used to run it dry after each use. I had the motor for many years without one problem at all.

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Its an old wives tale that was never proven by facts, The same can be said about cranking a cold engine before it fires, (no lube). Its amazing the crazy things old wives talk about when men folk ain`t around. I`ll keep doing it, and I`m sure with no trouble. We know the problems old gas can cause when it sits in the engine, for a lengh of time. The fuel pump is electric it fills itself when the key is turned and the bulb is pumped.

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It seems neither side of the subject can be supported by fact other than personal testimony. I've seen my share of broken outboards with scored cylinders and other damage. Who's to say some of the behavior discussed in this thread didn't contribute to such damage? Just because one's motor runs without issue doesn't mean there hasn't been some sort of accelerated wear due to something I believe no manufacturer recommends. If the motor isn't used on a regular basis, chances are total hours will be low even for motors that get up there in age. I doubt the practice could cause much concern done periodically.

I don't run the gas out of my outboards and have found other means to thwart issues caused by storing gasoline for periods without usage. It seems many are comfortable with the practice of running the fuel out and in the end its an individual decision... as long as it doesn't cause a warranty issue I suppose. Regardless, good discussion.

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Regardless of whether you run it dry or not, if it's going to sit for any length of time there should be some fuel additive in the tank and it is reccomended that you fog the motor if storing for a long period of time.

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My 2 cents...Fuel Stabilizers are intended to be used when you buy the gasoline. Stabilizer maintains fuel integrity. Once integrity is lost, stabilizer won't bring it back.

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I think the line of demarcation here is that you can run out an engine with carbs, but not injected engines. There's no reason to do it on an injected engine in the first place. I heard a story, key word here is heard, where a hand disconnected the fuel line on an injected engine that was on a tender aboard a larger boat. He then went to clean something on the other end of the boat. When he returned, the engine had continued to run on the oil pumped into the injectors and had a big mess to clean up. I didn't see it, but just read it on a forum like this.
Mike

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I ran my Honda 4 stroke dry based on reports that the carbs are prone to fouling.
In the 20 years that I have had a 1966 Evinrude 33 HP motor I ran it dry the third year I had it and the cork carb float crumbled. now I'm back to just parking it for the winter. It starts right up every spring and has given me no trouble..

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As a follow up to what Tom was saying, I run the Johnson 115 2-stroke dry when it will sit for more than a week. That said, the only time I run the Verado’s “dry” is right before winter layup. Per Mercury instructions, after running treated gas through them for 10 minutes, I turn the fuel selectors to the off position and let the motors run out of gas. That’s it – unlike the Johnson where I will crank/choke it a few more times.

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Now I'm gonna throw a real wrech into the conversation...........Get an ETEC and wiill automatically winterize itself by going through a few simple throtle procedures.........piece of cake

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With a fuel injected motor...you shouldn't have to run it dry. None the less, just do what the owners manual says and you'll be fine. These newer motors are finicky.

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I have an even better idea.......live in S Texas and there is no winterization period. :)

Duf

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Now you're bragging and rubbing it in! :)

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duf,

Isn't Corpus Christi mid-south Texas?

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actually it is designated the central gulf coast if you watch the weather channel, but compared to the state, we are only about 100 miles or so as the crow flys north of the Mexican boarder. Dallas, which of course is north, is a good 8 hour drive from here.

Temps here rarely see the 50's, and only for short periods although we did have snow on Christmas eve some years ago, first time in the 13 years i've been here, and it reached the 20's for a day or so, then was back in the 60's. Now, the heat in the summer is a whole different thing, dang hot here from June to mid Sept. My favorite time of year is mid Sept - late Nov, and March - June. Only down side in the March - June is it can be very windy, and seas are usually pretty tough.

All in all, its a great place for boating pretty much year around! :)

Duf

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What Duf says is truth! The weather in CC is beautiful year round and it is about an 8 hour drive from Dallas. Which BTW, I hope to make that 8 hour drive again soon!

Blue skies, deep blue water and warm tropical breezes about sums it up for that part of the world,

When down there, one has to say "Look where the F@#$ we are!" (Quote from Only In America.)

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I just do the Etec winterization too. :)
Our 40 hp Johnson has sat around with fuel in the carbs and now it won't idle. :(

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Duf,

Just had to comment since originally from the Valley. You're lucky to be there in CC.

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Have to agree Bill, i guess its why i"ve stayed here for so long. Looking to upgrade to a larger boat (at least this is my excuse) to enjoy more of the boating longer when it gets a little rough in the winter and early spring, but temps are still very seasonable most of the time.

Duf